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Old 03-09-2005, 06:27 AM   #20506
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Quote:
Originally posted by B4
Great to see them switching to the best car.

Temp and humidity is about the same here at the moment and using 20% nitro with 12% oil is giving me about 7minutes run time on full tyres with a mildly technical track.


You don't mention any 3port engines, what economy are they getting.

We also have a small technical track and all of our members use 5 port engines.
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Old 03-09-2005, 09:02 AM   #20507
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcpanama
We also have a small technical track and all of our members use 5 port engines.
Hey, welcome back rcpanama... Has the track changed the last time? Gearing and tire diameter the same? Or perhaps it's just weather change that's making your fuel consumption much more...

You got me stumped on the fuel consumption and plug... Did you solve the fuel consumption problem with the OS plug?
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Old 03-09-2005, 09:09 AM   #20508
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Hey, welcome back rcpanama... Has the track changed the last time? Gearing and tire diameter the same? Or perhaps it's just weather change that's making your fuel consumption much more...

You got me stumped on the fuel consumption and plug... Did you solve the fuel consumption problem with the OS plug?
Hi D I am always present but must of the time reading and learning, we solve the problem of flaming out with the OS plug but not the consumption.
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Old 03-09-2005, 09:18 AM   #20509
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcpanama
Hi D I am always present but must of the time reading and learning, we solve the problem of flaming out with the OS plug but not the consumption.
Perhaps the OS7 plug is a little hotter and better suited to cure the flaming out problem...

Have you tried playing with engine head shims? Try adding 0.1 mm to the stock 0.3 mm... This would kill a little bottom end and give better top end... Not something you want on a short track.

The other way is to take out the 0.3 mm aluminum shim and just use 0.2 mm shim (2 x 0.1 mm copper shims) and retune engine. Stick witht he 7tf plug. You may get surprising results not to mention a lot more bottom end power. But of course this could proove to be worse in terms of idling... Try it out. You won't know till you do it.
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Old 03-09-2005, 09:42 AM   #20510
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Default Steering Linkage

I just want to confirm that the steering lever mounted to the servo should lean forward 1 tooth right? I am building a car and am having a tough time getting the servo saver centered and the throw equal. I have to trim the ends more to get the length of the rod down to approx. 42mm.

Any words of wisdom?

Thanks.
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Old 03-09-2005, 10:02 AM   #20511
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Default Re: Steering Linkage

The measurement on the manual assumes you're using a Sanwa servo. If you're using other servos, the measurement needs to be different...

Cut and paste from a posting I did sometime back...

Cut the metal (the stock rod linkage) down to 17 mm. Stock lenght of the rod linkage is 23 mm from tip to tip.

As for the plastic, trim the length of the ball cups. The picture attached shows the top one being the original (and uncut) and the bottom one is the one that was trimmed.



This combo gives the total length of the ball cups and rod linkage assembly as 39.5 mm instead of 44.5 mm as per the manual.

At neutral position, the steering servo horn is not in the center. It should be leaning forward in front slightly at neutral position with this linkage mod.


Download the 710 FAQ. I believe Mark included this and other basic stuff in there.
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Old 03-09-2005, 10:51 AM   #20512
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Default Kawahara dogbones

Hi all,

A while ago, someone suggested using some Kawahara central driveshafts for the front dogbones on an S710... they are a bit longer and thicker.

These were part of a special Kawahara central driveshaft set (one long, one short). You had to buy 2 sets in order to get 1 pair of the front dogbones.

What is the part number and name for that Kawahara set?


Thanks!
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Old 03-09-2005, 12:42 PM   #20513
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Perhaps the OS7 plug is a little hotter and better suited to cure the flaming out problem...

Have you tried playing with engine head shims? Try adding 0.1 mm to the stock 0.3 mm... This would kill a little bottom end and give better top end... Not something you want on a short track.

The other way is to take out the 0.3 mm aluminum shim and just use 0.2 mm shim (2 x 0.1 mm copper shims) and retune engine. Stick witht he 7tf plug. You may get surprising results not to mention a lot more bottom end power. But of course this could proove to be worse in terms of idling... Try it out. You won't know till you do it.
Ok in my case all my engines has an extra .1mm shim so I am using 0.4mm and you are right I am the one that has more time (about 4.95 to 5.05 minutes ) compare to the other drivers that have 4.5 minutes.
Now with the 7tf plug and the 0.4mm shim I was having problems
.
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Old 03-09-2005, 01:42 PM   #20514
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Im having trouble with the shocks they dont seem to be smooth like my xray's I built it just like the manual says and I let all the air bubbles escape and still the shocks feel really bad
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Old 03-09-2005, 02:40 PM   #20515
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Originally posted by markp27
choices, choices
No, no ,no ... you mean "variety".
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Old 03-09-2005, 07:55 PM   #20516
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Hi guys,

Based on your experience, which bearing(s) tend to get damaged first? I wanna keep some spares so i would like to know which are the ones prone to damages.

Also, I checked in RC-mushroom for 710 hop up parts. The prices for ori Serpent alloy parts seem to be a lot more costly compared to those made by say, 3Racing. Especially the alloy parts. Is there a reason why? Are the ori Serpent ones much better in terms of quality?

confused:
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Old 03-09-2005, 08:59 PM   #20517
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darth Vader
Based on your experience, which bearing(s) tend to get damaged first? I wanna keep some spares so i would like to know which are the ones prone to damages.
Wheel bearings ! 10x15x4 bearings to be exact.

Quote:
Originally posted by Darth Vader
Also, I checked in RC-mushroom for 710 hop up parts. The prices for ori Serpent alloy parts seem to be a lot more costly compared to those made by say, 3Racing. Especially the alloy parts. Is there a reason why? Are the ori Serpent ones much better in terms of quality?
Oh yes they are. The fitting and machining of the aluminum Serpent ones are second to none. Have you seen pics of the Serpent aluminum pulleys? Have you compared them to the rest?
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Old 03-09-2005, 09:00 PM   #20518
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcpanama
Ok in my case all my engines has an extra .1mm shim so I am using 0.4mm and you are right I am the one that has more time (about 4.95 to 5.05 minutes ) compare to the other drivers that have 4.5 minutes.
Now with the 7tf plug and the 0.4mm shim I was having problems
.
Have you tried lowering to 0.2 mm? Try it out. It may or may not be better for you.
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Old 03-09-2005, 09:01 PM   #20519
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Default Re: Kawahara dogbones

Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
A while ago, someone suggested using some Kawahara central driveshafts for the front dogbones on an S710... they are a bit longer and thicker.
No idea on the shaft part numbers... I think somebody on the mytsn forum suggested it. Not here.
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Old 03-09-2005, 09:21 PM   #20520
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Quote:
Originally posted by FW05R
Im having trouble with the shocks they dont seem to be smooth like my xray's I built it just like the manual says and I let all the air bubbles escape and still the shocks feel really bad
Are you trying to mount the Serpent shocks onto the RRR?

The trick to assembling the shocks is when the time you lock the shock cap onto the shock body. This must be done quickly and at one go. If you spend too much time at this part, then the air might get trapped in when the shock bladder is not positioned correctly or slanted.

Some tips I always use when rebuilding shocks;

1. I always try to use the optional Serpent red shock bladders with the foam inserts. They are softer and somehow I find the fitting over the shock body better = less or zero leakage.

2. I use green slime from AE to lubricate the o rings.

3. After filling up the shock oil into the shock body, what I do is I make sure I turn the shock cap where the small o ring is at the bottom of the shock body to lock position if it's not already locked. Then I stroke the piston up and down to get all the bubbles out. Put it on a stand for 5 to 10 minutes.

4. I put the red shock bladder flat on top of the shock body and let excess shock oil come out. I do this to ensure the shock bladder sits in flat properly before I put the top shock cap onto the shock body. Also, you get to ensure that both left and right shocks are in equal pressure because of the same shock oil level in each shock body !

5. Then slowly mount the top shock cap onto the shock body where the shock bladder is sitting flat. Make sure the cap is perpendicular to the shock body and make sure the threading is secure before screwing it in. If you have a composite shock body, it's easy to strip the thread while doing this.

6. Lock the shock cap tightly. After that, test the shocks. The shocks should rebound and come out slowly and extend to it's full length. Both left and right shocks should extend at the same rate !

7. If either shocks extend faster than the other, take the faster one and loosen the shock cap below the shock body where the small o ring sits. Push the shock shaft in and you may see some excess oil coming out. Then tighten and secure back up the same shock cap below the shock body where the small o ring sits. Repeat until both shocks extend at equal rates.
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