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Old 04-26-2005, 10:44 PM   #21256
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Sorry bro. My German vocab is no good.
You expect me to be fooled by that
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Old 04-26-2005, 11:03 PM   #21257
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Like Darth Vader said (may the force be with you), you get more steering. It is best used when you have a high speed sweeper as the cornering speed increases because of the less Ackerman.
Several of us changed them out at the winter nats, so not too much time to evaluate. My feeling was I got a significant increase in steering, not only on turn in but mid-sweeper, and in the infield. However, the car was twitchy. This was reduced by reducing the width of the front tires, but it never completely got comfortable. The least move from dead center and the car was right on it. I constantly felt like I'd like "a longer lever handle". I have driven it several times since, and my opinion has not changed. So I'm switching back to the original to compare them again.

Come on Mark, hop on this , I know your were involved with cutting down the front tires,etc. How did you feel?
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Old 04-26-2005, 11:08 PM   #21258
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Jack,

I would be interested to hear how the comparison goes. For the circuit which I run on, the long servo saver is definately better. I will also carry out a comparison when I get my second 710 back together.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-26-2005, 11:13 PM   #21259
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
Come on Mark, hop on this , I know your were involved with cutting down the front tires,etc. How did you feel?
I would have liked to have tried out the normal servo saver at the winternats, but I didn't have time at the end of the day.

I think I was more twitchy than my car at the winternats But for me, it felt ok - maybe it gave a little too much steering (I had my dual-rate down around 55-60%) - but I didn't really have the feeling that it was too twitchy.
It would be interesting to hear if any of the 710 guys had the old servo saver in at the winternats.

Next year, when my pit monkey is also there I should have more time to experiment
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Old 04-27-2005, 12:18 AM   #21260
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
Several of us changed them out at the winter nats, so not too much time to evaluate. My feeling was I got a significant increase in steering, not only on turn in but mid-sweeper, and in the infield. However, the car was twitchy. This was reduced by reducing the width of the front tires, but it never completely got comfortable. The least move from dead center and the car was right on it. I constantly felt like I'd like "a longer lever handle". I have driven it several times since, and my opinion has not changed. So I'm switching back to the original to compare them again.

Come on Mark, hop on this , I know your were involved with cutting down the front tires,etc. How did you feel?
I actually found that I needed less steering travel with the longer servo saver. So, maybe you can try reducing the travel a bit and see if the car becomes less twitchy...
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Old 04-27-2005, 12:21 AM   #21261
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: titanium screws

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Originally posted by InitialD


If you can get countersunk ones, that would be good. Use the countersunk shims with the countersunk screws and you solve the problem.

The thing is it's difficult to even get M4 size titanium screws. I wonder if the East titanium screw set for 710 has those screws in titanium or do they only include M3 screws in titanium...
I found some M4 titanium screws that I think were mainly meant for the 1/8 cars. But I don't think I saw one in 25mm length...
And the prices are... !!!

Maybe will go back for a 2nd and closer look...
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Old 04-27-2005, 12:53 AM   #21262
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: droop

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Originally posted by thamjk
Actually this is a very interesting topic. For me this is the way I look at droop. The defination is to represent how much is the chasis travel (up/down) while the car is on the track. They are two measurements that is taken to get the droop.

First is the chasis down travel. The down travel most of the time will be the chasis right height and that can be reduce with applying more up stop.

Second is the chasis up travel. The up travel is measured from the relax point to where the tyre just about to left the ground. The up travel can be reduce by applying more down stop.

Sum up that two measurement and that is what i called droop. Notice, its not the same value as down stop, up stop and right height.
Actually I agree with you. The droop, downstop and upstop measurements does not give the full picture.

The effect of the these measurements are to do with weight transfer and of course, how fast and how much weight transfer takes place at any given time depends on the up/down travel a chassis can make and this depends on the upstop/downstop setting as well as shocks settings.
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Old 04-27-2005, 02:11 AM   #21263
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Like Darth Vader said (may the force be with you), you get more steering. It is best used when you have a high speed sweeper as the cornering speed increases because of the less Ackerman.
Ya by putting more front toe-in you can futher improve the ackermen.
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Old 04-27-2005, 03:27 AM   #21264
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Quote:
Originally posted by thamjk
Ya by putting more front toe-in you can futher improve the ackermen.
That is correct if you're in the middle of the corner all the time like in oval racing. You loose a little bit of initial steering when entering the corner.
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Old 04-27-2005, 06:37 AM   #21265
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Default Re: Impulse/705 chasis

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Originally posted by toratoza
Any mod. required for a 705 chasis to be used in an impulse? Any one experience?
I was told by Serpent USA that the chassis are not interchangeable. Looking for an Impulse chassis?
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Old 04-27-2005, 07:16 AM   #21266
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As the 705 has its battery under the tank, and the impulse hasn't they aren't interchangeable.
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Old 04-27-2005, 08:10 AM   #21267
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
D, you got time to do an experiment for me? If you do, could you do the following:

remove the metal shielded bearings and end-play shims from you clutch.

Now add shims to the thrust bearing carrier until it can no longer be pushed/pulled. Using your verniers, measure the shims which had to be added to achieve this and compare with your measured clutch gap.

Cheers, Mark.
Mark...this is how I set my gap. After it's tight I just remove the shims which adds up to the gap I'm trying to achieve. I think I get a more accurate result doing it this way.
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Old 04-27-2005, 08:30 AM   #21268
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Quote:
Originally posted by JustRace
Mark...this is how I set my gap. After it's tight I just remove the shims which adds up to the gap I'm trying to achieve. I think I get a more accurate result doing it this way.
I have done it this way before, but that was for a 0.5mm gap - with which I also ended up blowing the bearings. But I feel it is also the most accurate way.
I've also used feeler guages (the pre-formed strips of metal which range from 0.01mm upto 1mm) and I get the same measured value. But with the calipers, I'm about 0.2mm off.

For my driving technique, I seem to require a 0.7mm clutch gap to avoid blowing the bearings.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-27-2005, 08:49 AM   #21269
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I have done it this way before, but that was for a 0.5mm gap - with which I also ended up blowing the bearings. But I feel it is also the most accurate way.
I've also used feeler guages (the pre-formed strips of metal which range from 0.01mm upto 1mm) and I get the same measured value. But with the calipers, I'm about 0.2mm off.

For my driving technique, I seem to require a 0.7mm clutch gap to avoid blowing the bearings.

Cheers, Mark.
Is it the gap or the spring tension that is causing the bearing problem?
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Old 04-27-2005, 09:03 AM   #21270
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Quote:
Originally posted by jag
Is it the gap or the spring tension that is causing the bearing problem?
It can only be the gap. After a run my clutch bell would be 65C, which seems to cause the oil in the metal shielded bearings to be fluid enough to run out. After that, then the bearings are running metal-on-metal and don't last much longer.
I tired many different clutch tensions and non made any real difference to the clutch bell temp.
As a last resort, I opened up the clutch gap and hey-presto, clutch bell temp was 48C after a run.
I measured a friends clutch bell temp after a run he did and it was 51C - he's never had problems with the metal shielded bearings.
I hope now that the temp is lower, that I won't have any further problems.

Cheers, Mark.
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