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Old 02-10-2004, 04:20 AM   #4201
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InitialD: Are you mad keen on the Manga series Initial D?

Sn
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Old 02-10-2004, 04:28 AM   #4202
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Originally posted by InitialD
Not yet available here from what I can tell... Apparently it's good stuff. Planning to get it?
Seems rccarinternational has some in, I thought I'd give it a go
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Old 02-10-2004, 05:32 AM   #4203
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mount the shocks on the back side of the shock tower and you will stop breaking shafts working here 5shafts first day.. zero since.

spaced the tower forward about 6mm with shock spacer
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Old 02-10-2004, 06:51 AM   #4204
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Aha, but you're taking the 2nd kit and building the lightest car this side of town has seen ! Remember?
Ooops! OK, I admit it ... I have a THIRD kit.



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You're using 21T pinion? I find that using about 60 to 62 mm tires with the stock 22T pinion is about right for the normal straights at Titi. Unless you have an engine which can scream 48,000 rpm !
No, I had it assembled but left it at home on race day remember? Had to use stock pinions and totally agree with you, it was more than enough for me.

I started with 61 fronts and 63 rears on 35 shores for the heats for some reason (thats what I had in the bag!) but it was too fast by the end of each long section. I was almost driving like a beginner again, overshooting here and there. In the second heat, it was just right after 2 minutes ... just cruisn' man!

I have been testing the track with 40 shores, 1-way and 60 fronts, 61 rears and really liked the awesome acceleration and cornering. Apart from the yellow springs, I would have definitely ran it this way for the finals.

Oh yes, am replacing them silly brass bushings on the conrod with micro-bearings ... you'll see my 48,000 rpm engine one day ... if you beg!

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Really? Oh good samaritan, where are you when I need you for spares?
Woi! I'm usually at TiTi 2-3 days prior to a race, never the day before the actual race day. When in town I have raced every one of them ... it was you who seems to be invisible la!
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Old 02-10-2004, 06:55 AM   #4205
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Droop!

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Originally posted by S710_Nut
I might try a frnt roll centre change to see what that does to my mid corner steering. What impact will that have on entry and exit steering though?

SN
Interesting question grasshopper .. to which I have no clue for an answer!

When you've tested do let us know ...
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Old 02-10-2004, 07:55 AM   #4206
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Originally posted by S710_Nut
I have never seen anyone succesfully run on our track with foams... rubber tyres aren't that bad, $8usd for the tyre and insert can be reused, i do have a bad habbit of buckling the rims though.
Ummm, I've always debated this with myself. But you've already noticed by now that rubber tires overheat. Once they do that, you never get the same traction you get when they were new.

But even if foam tires were a little more expensive, at least you'll get more usage in terms of usable hours of driving from it. I mean you get constant traction from foams right through finish. So in that way, it's more worth it.

In any case, I don't know how much foam tires cost down under. Foam tires here are cheaper than rubber tires with wheel, insert and tire.

Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
I might try a frnt roll centre change to see what that does to my mid corner steering. What impact will that have on entry and exit steering though?
Lower front roll center affects on power steering.
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Old 02-10-2004, 07:55 AM   #4207
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Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
InitialD: Are you mad keen on the Manga series Initial D?
Actually, believe it or not, I have not seen any !
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Old 02-10-2004, 08:53 AM   #4208
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Droop!

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Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, I've always debated this with myself. But you've already noticed by now that rubber tires overheat.
Possibly this won't help you, but it may be worth a try. If you drill holes through the rims at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 O'Clock positions this will help prevent the tyres from overheating. Obviously drill the holes before mounting the tyres and use a 3mm drill bit.
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Old 02-10-2004, 09:45 AM   #4209
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Default Horrible idea.

Quote:
Originally posted by evlhdlts
i finally got my front ball diff from the border shop.
can't wait to try it out at my track!
at my local track, one way would be almost impossible to drive, the locked front diff is not really that great either. so the front ball diff is the way to go.

i'm thinking of putting mugen shocks on my 710 so i don't snap the shock shaft anymore. i don't know if this is a good idea though... let me know what you guys think.
First it is bad because you will be contaminating your snake. Second you lose the adjustable dampening that is a valuable tuning tool. I have raced my 710 about ten times now and have broken several upper and lower front bumpers but zero shock shafts.
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Old 02-10-2004, 09:58 AM   #4210
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Default Why is everybody trying to change this car so much.

The car is awesome. Run the car the way it was designed and you will love it. The roll center adjustability is fantastic tuning tool. If you run run the front with the highest roll center and the back with the lowest roll center the car is almost impossible to traction roll on the highest traction imaginable. This car comes with everything you need to go fast in every condition. (maybe with the exception of a very small high bite track where you would want a front diff.) Racing is all about tires choosing the correct shore and diameter for your track conditions.

Just my opinion........... and just wanted to say I love this car. Now it is time to work on my 950R.
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:21 AM   #4211
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ybslow, are u gonna race with us here at SRS soon?
later man
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:23 AM   #4212
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Default Re: Horrible idea.

Quote:
Originally posted by YBSLOW
First it is bad because you will be contaminating your snake. Second you lose the adjustable dampening that is a valuable tuning tool. I have raced my 710 about ten times now and have broken several upper and lower front bumpers but zero shock shafts.


Same here. I have not broken the shock shaft yet but have broken the surrounding areas.

But I think I'll go back to spacing the shocks more vertical by mounting the shock tower a little more to the front using spacers like I originally did. A little additional help would not hurt !
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:25 AM   #4213
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Droop!

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Possibly this won't help you, but it may be worth a try. If you drill holes through the rims at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 O'Clock positions this will help prevent the tyres from overheating. Obviously drill the holes before mounting the tyres and use a 3mm drill bit.
Oh, tried that trick before ! But with the power of the nitro engine puts to the ground, rubber tires are just too sensitive. You need to be really good with the throttle and with your driving lines to conserve your tires.
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:27 AM   #4214
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Default Re: Why is everybody trying to change this car so much.

Quote:
Originally posted by YBSLOW
The car is awesome. Run the car the way it was designed and you will love it. The roll center adjustability is fantastic tuning tool. If you run run the front with the highest roll center and the back with the lowest roll center the car is almost impossible to traction roll on the highest traction imaginable. This car comes with everything you need to go fast in every condition. (maybe with the exception of a very small high bite track where you would want a front diff.) Racing is all about tires choosing the correct shore and diameter for your track conditions.

Just my opinion........... and just wanted to say I love this car. Now it is time to work on my 950R.
But hey, if you can adjust the car to hell and back, why not? As they say, if you have it, might as well flaunt it !

Agree that the roll center thingy is one of the best tuning tool on the car.
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Old 02-10-2004, 12:04 PM   #4215
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Default Re: Re: Horrible idea.

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD


Same here. I have not broken the shock shaft yet but have broken the surrounding areas.

But I think I'll go back to spacing the shocks more vertical by mounting the shock tower a little more to the front using spacers like I originally did. A little additional help would not hurt !
Can anyone explain why changing the shock position in this way will prevent them breaking?
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