Serpent 710
12-27-2005 | 06:40 AM
Regional Moderator
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,189
From: D-Square Racing
Originally Posted by Pyramid
Chris, 2 questions: what about front oneway? and why rear left toe is different than its right?
About the engine, if mine could not follow you, I think you will let me try yours then
About the engine, if mine could not follow you, I think you will let me try yours then
12-27-2005 | 06:47 AM
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 986
From: hong kong
Originally Posted by Pyramid
Chris, 2 questions: what about front oneway? and why rear left toe is different than its right?
About the engine, if mine could not follow you, I think you will let me try yours then
About the engine, if mine could not follow you, I think you will let me try yours then
on the rear toe, this is what I end up. I think is because one of the left turn have really low traction so I add more to the right side.
U should able to control the throttle without doing this
12-27-2005 | 07:39 AM
Tech Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,168
From: So. Florida
Originally Posted by Julius
1. Don't know, but the thicker diff oils seem to be more comparable than the shock oils.
2. One of the good things of silicone is that the viscosity is quite constant with temp.
3. 20k - 50k would be a good bet I guess
4. The serpent diff is sealed by three O-rings. 2 on the outdrives and one between the two halves. It should be almost leak free. A tip is to use a little bit of very thick sticky grease on the o-rings at the outdrives (lightly coat the o-ring and then install).
5. The gears last a long time. I'm still using te first set since the EC in Halifax (august). Also the outdrives seem to wear less than the ball diff. I check the diff when I do a teardown of the car and then I will make sure the amount of oil is still sufficient.
2. One of the good things of silicone is that the viscosity is quite constant with temp.
3. 20k - 50k would be a good bet I guess
4. The serpent diff is sealed by three O-rings. 2 on the outdrives and one between the two halves. It should be almost leak free. A tip is to use a little bit of very thick sticky grease on the o-rings at the outdrives (lightly coat the o-ring and then install).
5. The gears last a long time. I'm still using te first set since the EC in Halifax (august). Also the outdrives seem to wear less than the ball diff. I check the diff when I do a teardown of the car and then I will make sure the amount of oil is still sufficient.
12-27-2005 | 08:47 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 478
From: Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Some rummers about 'a' new 1:10 car for the euro's.... but i don't think that will come out for the public in a long time... it will probably will be next season when the public receives a new car...
12-27-2005 | 08:48 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,104
From: Va Va Voom!
Originally Posted by jag
I have heard from a reliable source that the 720 will be released shortly after the 1st of the year. Has anybody else heard anything?
12-27-2005 | 10:14 AM
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,063
From: Amsterdam Netherlands
Originally Posted by jag
Julius, what is the proper amount of oil to use in the diff? Is there a certain way to fill it? I just poured some oil in, (twice) let it settle and screwed it together. A small amout came out of the last screw hole when I put it together.
Getting a bit of oil out of the screw holes is fine.
12-27-2005 | 02:24 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,168
From: So. Florida
Originally Posted by Julius
I fill the diff with oil up to the point the small gears are completely covered. Then I rotate the outdrive so the gears all turn and the oil works to all areas of the diff. Then I add oil till again the small gears are covered. Repeat until the small gears remain covered after turning (you'll have to push the axles down after rotating as the gears come up in the oil).
Getting a bit of oil out of the screw holes is fine.
Getting a bit of oil out of the screw holes is fine.
Is there a rule on how often the oil needs changing?
Thanks.
12-27-2005 | 08:32 PM
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 857
Originally Posted by Pyramid
Bro, why dont I just sent you one and just return it back to me. if you dont like it. I`m sure I will need more than one set so I no need to mesh with re putting different oil to match the track condition at a given time.
OK just send it to me. If I like it I buy it.
Anyway, are you planning on having 10 bevel diffs set each for 10K thru 100K ?
Speaking of the diff oil viscosity, one of my friends who drives an outlaw mugen with lola body shell goes with 100K oil. He said, my car behaved just like a 1/8. lol.....
12-28-2005 | 05:47 AM
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 986
From: hong kong
Originally Posted by Pyramid
That`s extreme... I think 60KW would be very nice in the situation of last JITC Futaba Cup where new suface emullsion coating applied. I`m sure you will like it.another guy tried 50K but his car looks very strange so I guess too hard.
ACO surface just been "re-coated" so traction is fairly good.
12-28-2005 | 07:55 AM
Tech Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,168
From: So. Florida
Front Droop
I am having a difficult time getting my front suspension set without binding. My problem seems to be with the sway bar cam and mounting screw. When I tighten the screw the suspension binds. When I loosen the screw it is free. I am using the orange aluminum sway bar mounts and everything fits fine. They rotate perfectly on the hinge pins. Also when I rotate the cam to 12 o'clock it binds the suspension even with the screw loose. When I turn the cam to 1 o'clock (and beyond) it's free.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks,
jag
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks,
jag