HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY

Since all 1/10 car is about in the same weight, try to match the damping hardness with your friends car. Soft damping tends to give smooth cornering action while harder one will make your car acting more direct to the steering input. Personally I prefer soft damping as it also give better tires millage (highly noticable on EP rubber) and the car feels kind of very light when cornering.

You gain more steering with higher front roll center, try using 1mm shims under the front upper arms instead of the 2mm standard.

I typically like the car harder vs. softer but I was told to soften the front with the locked one-way. The car really pushes with the front spool as compared to the diff or one-way. My friends RRR has too much steering. The car feels twichy.

What is the trade off for raising the front roll center? I will add that to the list of items to experiment with. I have another idea that I am going to try. It's a secret now but if it works I will let you know.

Thanks

Don`t spent too much time wrenching, just like what I did till now. This hobby is expensive and become even more expensive if it take more of our time wrenching rather than playing ...and in my case, I still have to sell them.

About the front, more negative camber when cornering. You should feel the difference right away. If you use no spacer at all, the dogbone will rubs on front upper arm holder at some point. For the real technical explanation on roll center, nobody beats the pilot, Julius!

Received the new Serpent bevel diff set on Saturday morning around 9. Wanted to hit the track right away, but mother nature prevented it. It was all raining.

Hit the track on Sunday. It was the biggest nitro gathering so far this year (6 of us came and practiced). Weather was perfect. Ran the car as was few months ago. The car was untouched since early September. Slapped new fresh tires and realized both front suspensions had positive camber .

OK here's the trials with Lola body shell, 32mm rear tires.

First ran, ball dif setup, no diff collar attached. Car was ok but a little twitchy.

Second ran, gear diff w/ 10K oil. The car pushed off power. Diffing on power exiting corners. Less aggresive out of corners, thus less angle of attack.

Third ran, gear diff w/ 50K oil. The car was alive. Aggresive. Felt like a torsen installed in the rear.The more power, the more bite the gear diff gave. Very fast too on the straight.

Fourth, the last ran of the day, gear diff with 100K ! BTW, I was about to try with 1million viscosity as one of the guys had it.
Very very aggresive was all over. The only thing that I felt was even more power on the straight. In and out corners was all over the track. So did on and off power behaviours. The car needed new setup for running 100K oil.

SIDE NOTE: I think I will end up with 40K for a cloudy day and 50K for a hot sunny day.

Overall, consistency was the KEY for running the new Serpent gear diff. I highly recommend it !

HELP
I'm running serpent front cvd's, car performing well but the cvd's won't last. Is there any trick's i'm not doing or is there another brand any better.Are there any benefits running the cvd's compared to the dog bones.
Haven't got my gear diff yet how much better is it to the ball diff.
CHEERS!!

Are you using a one-way in the front?

Tested on CIS?

You have less play on drivetrain. Do not install CVD in front when using solid axle. Serpent original CVD is stronger than 3racing product.

What is happening to them... breaking, bending? I have found that the new Serpent CVD's are better than the 3Racing ones. I used to break the 3Racing ones right near the pivot. I have not broken any of the Serpent ones yet... knock knock.

I am not a very experienced driver so it's hard for me to describe the difference between the ball and gear diff but I would say the car feels smoother... if that is possible. I like it.

I found the same thing with the 10k but I only went up to 30k. I'm still looking for some 50k.

What type of layout are you running on? My track is approx. 75' x 160', pretty tight, lots of turns with a couple slow technical sections... an electric track.

After a day's running take the cvd's out and clean them. I take them completely apart (loosen the 1.5mm hex in the cvd and push out the pin). Clean with putty or brake cleaner and relube. I use a teflon based grease. The grease attracts a bit of dirt but I find the cvd's last much longer then when using oil or nothing at all.

The cvd's require a little more maintenance but can't fall out like dogbones and run smoother.

Yes, it was at CIS.
BTW, Please send me the bill as I'd like to keep the new diff

The local track was supposedly designed for electric cars. It is approx. 60' x 130'.Technical, lots of 180 degree hairpin turns, 25 deg banking sweeper, & tight turns too.

I use a teflon based lube that pushbike racing riders use on their chains. This lube has the added benefit of not attracting dirt.