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Old 04-27-2005, 09:29 AM   #21271
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
It can only be the gap. After a run my clutch bell would be 65C, which seems to cause the oil in the metal shielded bearings to be fluid enough to run out. After that, then the bearings are running metal-on-metal and don't last much longer.
I tired many different clutch tensions and non made any real difference to the clutch bell temp.
As a last resort, I opened up the clutch gap and hey-presto, clutch bell temp was 48C after a run.
I measured a friends clutch bell temp after a run he did and it was 51C - he's never had problems with the metal shielded bearings.
I hope now that the temp is lower, that I won't have any further problems.

Cheers, Mark.
How much play do you have after the clutch is assembled?
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Old 04-27-2005, 09:43 AM   #21272
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Quote:
Originally posted by jag
How much play do you have after the clutch is assembled?
End play, do you mean? 0.2mm.
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Old 04-27-2005, 10:48 AM   #21273
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We are now on page 710 of the Serpent 710 topic. I wonder if we get a prize or anything
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Old 04-27-2005, 11:35 AM   #21274
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
End play, do you mean? 0.2mm.
Yeah, that's what I meant.
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Old 04-27-2005, 05:12 PM   #21275
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Quote:
Originally posted by alucard13
We are now on page 710 of the Serpent 710 topic. I wonder if we get a prize or anything
hehe, i wanna get my prize asap please
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Old 04-27-2005, 08:31 PM   #21276
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Quote:
Originally posted by New_Toasted
As the 705 has its battery under the tank, and the impulse hasn't they aren't interchangeable.
The receiver pack is the least of the problems... Besides, Impulse uses the common flat receiver pack and you can mount it anywhere under the radio tray as what the Impulse used to do.

The radio tray, the X bar support and the engine mounting needs to be looked into if you want to change the 705 chassis to be used on the Impulse. I'm very sure the engine mounting and the position where the engine is mounted is different on the 705 and the Impulse.
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Old 04-27-2005, 08:42 PM   #21277
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I've also used feeler guages (the pre-formed strips of metal which range from 0.01mm upto 1mm) and I get the same measured value. But with the calipers, I'm about 0.2mm off.
Mark, I didn't get to do the measuring yet. Came back late last night.

For me, I no longer use the calipers to measure the clutch gap. I use a tool somewhat similar to the filler gauge where you slide in the filler gauge where the shims go at the thrust bearing.
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Old 04-27-2005, 10:17 PM   #21278
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Mark, I didn't get to do the measuring yet. Came back late last night.
Young GF

Quote:
For me, I no longer use the calipers to measure the clutch gap. I use a tool somewhat similar to the filler gauge where you slide in the filler gauge where the shims go at the thrust bearing.
Yep, the calipers are too prone to error, I find.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-28-2005, 12:20 AM   #21279
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Young GF
A young gentleman (ahem ) does not kiss and tell.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Yep, the calipers are too prone to error, I find.
Unless you get the Team Tamale one...
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Old 04-28-2005, 12:23 AM   #21280
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
A young gentleman (ahem ) [...]
*cough* you fail to meet either criteria

Quote:
Unless you get the Team Tamale one...
I was thinking it wasn't worth laying out so much money for that, but judging by how many bearings have blown now, it would have been money well invested
Having said that, it seems that my driving technique isn't compatible with clutch gaps less than 0.7mm and this is where the problem lies.......maybe I should find some ultra-high temp bearings instead!!
I shall re-test everything when I have my light weight clutch bells, though.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-28-2005, 12:41 AM   #21281
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
*cough* you fail to meet either criteria
At least I don't pretend.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Having said that, it seems that my driving technique isn't compatible with clutch gaps less than 0.7mm and this is where the problem lies.......maybe I should find some ultra-high temp bearings instead!!
I shall re-test everything when I have my light weight clutch bells, though.
Mark, my guess is the way the clutch shoes "sit" and make contact into the clutch bell. Only part of the clutch shoe touches the mating clutchbell (the angled part). Perhaps the measurement differences come from the "just touching" and "fully touching" the clutchbell... Just a thought.
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Old 04-28-2005, 01:10 AM   #21282
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
At least I don't pretend.
Unlike some of us

Quote:
Mark, my guess is the way the clutch shoes "sit" and make contact into the clutch bell. Only part of the clutch shoe touches the mating clutchbell (the angled part). Perhaps the measurement differences come from the "just touching" and "fully touching" the clutchbell... Just a thought.
You mean when I push the bell? I hold it pretty tight against the clutch shoe when I take the measurement.
I think what is critical is that with the calipers, the clutch bell is pushed down on one side slightly. Maybe there is a tendency to over compensate, making the clutch gap measurement larger than it actually is.
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Old 04-28-2005, 05:52 AM   #21283
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Mark, I didn't get to do the measuring yet. Came back late last night.

For me, I no longer use the calipers to measure the clutch gap. I use a tool somewhat similar to the filler gauge where you slide in the filler gauge where the shims go at the thrust bearing.
Initial....I found with the filler guage that I get inconsistent measurements. The shim/trust bearing still has a chance to tilt to one side while making the measurement. Have you tried putting in all the shims until the clutch bell is barely tight. Then just remove the amount of gap that you want. Works great.
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Old 04-28-2005, 11:17 AM   #21284
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Has anyone noticed that the 710 thread now has 710 pages
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Old 04-28-2005, 01:46 PM   #21285
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Guys,
Need a lil help.

Just put together a 710. After every run(couple of mins) my clutch end play goes from 0.2 to zero play. It looks like the clutch bell is pushed toward the thrust bearing and then it stays there pressing against the thrust bearing.

When I take a socket wrench and put it over the thrust bearing and slightly tap(toward the engine) the 1st gear pinion only, I get my end play back. Then it happens again.....weird!! My thrust B ain't gonna last.

Could it be that my ball bearing is getting jammed in the 1st gear pinion housing?
Planning to sand the inside of the housing.

Any comments?
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