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Old 04-14-2005, 02:33 PM   #21121
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Originally posted by alucard13
Thank you. I will re check it and put some grease on it. Can i use regular grease (like from Associated?) I am not sure if i can get mugen supergrease before tomorrow.
Mike!! I better see you and that 710 finally at RPR this weekend
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Old 04-14-2005, 05:16 PM   #21122
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Originally posted by gonzoY5
Mike!! I better see you and that 710 finally at RPR this weekend
Sorry bro, but I am also visiting family up there too. Now that tax season is done i hope to be out more.

See you guys soon.
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Old 04-18-2005, 03:39 AM   #21123
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Default Bearings U11 and U13

Can anyone confirm the width of the wheel bearings 10 x 15 U11 and diff bearings 12 x 18 U13, I forgot to check while the car was apart and I want to get some spares from my bearing wholesaler, unfortunately the on-line manual doesn't state the width.

Cheers, Mark
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Old 04-18-2005, 04:01 AM   #21124
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Default Re: Bearings U11 and U13

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Originally posted by Diesel Racer
Can anyone confirm the width of the wheel bearings 10 x 15 U11 and diff bearings 12 x 18 U13, I forgot to check while the car was apart and I want to get some spares from my bearing wholesaler, unfortunately the on-line manual doesn't state the width.

Cheers, Mark
Mark, I believe the U11 wheel bearings are 10x15x4. The U13 diff axle / bulkhead bearings are 12x18x4.
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Old 04-18-2005, 04:04 AM   #21125
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Thanks D, I wasn't sure if they were 4 or 5mm wide.

Mark
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Old 04-18-2005, 04:14 AM   #21126
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Default Re: Re: Bearings U11 and U13

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Mark, I believe the U11 wheel bearings are 10x15x4. The U13 diff axle / bulkhead bearings are 12x18x4.
Wheel bearings are also exactly the same as on the XRAY T1's except with a different colour cap.
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Old 04-18-2005, 04:19 AM   #21127
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Originally posted by Diesel Racer
Thanks D, I wasn't sure if they were 4 or 5mm wide.

Mark
NP. Most bearings come with standard sizes. If you specify 5 mm thickness for the sizes above, they simply do not exist ! So you'll know you got it wrong.
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Old 04-18-2005, 04:19 AM   #21128
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Default Re: Re: Re: Bearings U11 and U13

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Originally posted by B4
Wheel bearings are also exactly the same as on the XRAY T1's except with a different colour cap.
And I believe the PHQ ones are of better quality...
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Old 04-18-2005, 09:24 AM   #21129
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Default 710 DRS mod?

Hi all,

I was (re)building my s710 again, and i am realy getting a litte annoyed by the DRS system (the mounting) I think it's a little weak and i've maybe come with a mod to make it a little more stable and easier to build....

Here are some pics
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File Type: jpg drs_mod.jpg (14.9 KB, 162 views)
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Old 04-18-2005, 10:03 AM   #21130
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Default Re: 710 DRS mod?

Interesting... Does the DRS arm hit the chassis when the arms drop down? I take it the rear bottom pivot pin is longer? From which car is the bottom rear pivot pin from?

I rarely need to change the DRS but I know when you have to do it, it can be a PITA. When I have to change it (when changing the lower RC mount from bottom to top or top to bottom or when the DRS arms snaps...), I usually take the entire rear portion out by unscrewing all the Phillips screws under the chassis for the rear section. Detach the side CF stiffeners and the whole rear pops off. Then from the underside, it is easier to work on the DRS arms and the spacers.
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Old 04-18-2005, 12:15 PM   #21131
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Default Re: Re: 710 DRS mod?

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Originally posted by InitialD
Interesting... Does the DRS arm hit the chassis when the arms drop down? I take it the rear bottom pivot pin is longer? From which car is the bottom rear pivot pin from?

I rarely need to change the DRS but I know when you have to do it, it can be a PITA. When I have to change it (when changing the lower RC mount from bottom to top or top to bottom or when the DRS arms snaps...), I usually take the entire rear portion out by unscrewing all the Phillips screws under the chassis for the rear section. Detach the side CF stiffeners and the whole rear pops off. Then from the underside, it is easier to work on the DRS arms and the spacers.
yeah... i pop off the rear too.. but that sucks a little
i'm just not very happy with the construction and play that the DRS gives.. this is still just an idea.. the pivot pin is to short, because it's the standaard serpent pin :-)
But i gues it's just a matter of getting a long peace of the pin and making it yourself....

i also need something to seel of the pin, this way the DRS arm will drop of the pivot pin :-)

I don't change the DRS very often so that's why this solution would work for me....

i'll try building it and run the car.. i'm not a vast monkey(just a beginner) but i'll also ask ReneC's remarks the next dutch championship race

I love racing in the netherlands
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Old 04-19-2005, 04:34 PM   #21132
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Hi there,
Has anyone tried running with anti-squat by using the pivot inserts lower centered (P/N 802325)?

Is it possible to run with minimum DRS ie. by placing all the DRS spacers at below the arm? I've tried and mine seems to bind with the 2-speed spur.

Thanks
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Old 04-19-2005, 04:41 PM   #21133
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Default Re: Re: Rear Diff

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
When you tighten the internal screws of the rear diff, make sure it's just sufficiently tight so that the diff pulley does not slip when you try to turn it hard. Not more than that. Make sure you "lock" the setting by tightening the grub screw on the other end which should hold the setting and prevent the main screw from loosening out..
Hi D,
Do u have any guide lines on how minutes turns to tighten from full lock?
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Old 04-19-2005, 09:06 PM   #21134
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Default Re: Re: Re: Rear Diff

Quote:
Originally posted by ruD
Hi D,
Do u have any guide lines on how minutes turns to tighten from full lock?
Sorry bro... This is not like NTC3 ball diff. Even after you follow them carefully, they still slip on the NTC3.

Anyway, just tighten the screw slowly (bit by bit like 5 minute turns) and hold the two rear diff halves and try to turn the rear diff pulley. Tighten the rear diff screw till the point when you cannot turn and rotate the rear diff pulley anymore. Then, use the grub screw on the other side of the diff to lock the setting so that the setting does not run.
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Old 04-19-2005, 09:07 PM   #21135
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Quote:
Originally posted by ruD
Hi there,
Has anyone tried running with anti-squat by using the pivot inserts lower centered (P/N 802325)?
I actually have it for the longest time but I have not tried it. The holes in the 802325 is centered when compared to the stock ones (802324).

This would give you more rear option roll center combinations than the one mentioned on page 17 of the 710 setup booklet.

But when used in combination with the DRS arm, it will always give you some kind of anti-squat seeing that it'll always be higher or lower level when compared to the DRS arm.

Perhaps you should post this on mytsn 710 forum or if you're lucky, Julius or Rene could answers this here...

Quote:
Originally posted by ruD
Is it possible to run with minimum DRS ie. by placing all the DRS spacers at below the arm? I've tried and mine seems to bind with the 2-speed spur.
Honestly, I haven't tried and played around with the DRS setup myself. We usually set the DRS arm to level. Level would depend on the lower rear insert (stock 802324) if it's up or down.

Our local tracks don't seem to be smooth enough to make the DRS work correctly when you set it high or low. Reason being is when you hit a bump on say one of the rear wheels, that particular rear wheel will compress and will either toe-in or toe-out (depending on the DRS setting) and that will upset the car setup and handling.

If the track is really smooth, then the DRS arm will work correctly whicever way you set it. About the rubbing of the 1st gear spur on the right DRS arm, yes it may rub a bit when you set the DRS arm on the up side but after that it will not anymore.

Note to check the DRS setup on page 25 of the 710 setup booklet.
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