Serpent 710
Originally posted by markp27
It can only be the gap. After a run my clutch bell would be 65C, which seems to cause the oil in the metal shielded bearings to be fluid enough to run out. After that, then the bearings are running metal-on-metal and don't last much longer.
I tired many different clutch tensions and non made any real difference to the clutch bell temp.
As a last resort, I opened up the clutch gap and hey-presto, clutch bell temp was 48C after a run.
I measured a friends clutch bell temp after a run he did and it was 51C - he's never had problems with the metal shielded bearings.
I hope now that the temp is lower, that I won't have any further problems.
Cheers, Mark.
It can only be the gap. After a run my clutch bell would be 65C, which seems to cause the oil in the metal shielded bearings to be fluid enough to run out. After that, then the bearings are running metal-on-metal and don't last much longer.
I tired many different clutch tensions and non made any real difference to the clutch bell temp.
As a last resort, I opened up the clutch gap and hey-presto, clutch bell temp was 48C after a run.
I measured a friends clutch bell temp after a run he did and it was 51C - he's never had problems with the metal shielded bearings.
I hope now that the temp is lower, that I won't have any further problems.
Cheers, Mark.
Originally posted by jag
How much play do you have after the clutch is assembled?
How much play do you have after the clutch is assembled?
We are now on page 710 of the Serpent 710 topic. I wonder if we get a prize or anything
Originally posted by markp27
End play, do you mean? 0.2mm.
End play, do you mean? 0.2mm.
Originally posted by alucard13
We are now on page 710 of the Serpent 710 topic. I wonder if we get a prize or anything
We are now on page 710 of the Serpent 710 topic. I wonder if we get a prize or anything
Originally posted by New_Toasted
As the 705 has its battery under the tank, and the impulse hasn't they aren't interchangeable.
As the 705 has its battery under the tank, and the impulse hasn't they aren't interchangeable.
The radio tray, the X bar support and the engine mounting needs to be looked into if you want to change the 705 chassis to be used on the Impulse. I'm very sure the engine mounting and the position where the engine is mounted is different on the 705 and the Impulse.
Originally posted by markp27
I've also used feeler guages (the pre-formed strips of metal which range from 0.01mm upto 1mm) and I get the same measured value. But with the calipers, I'm about 0.2mm off.
I've also used feeler guages (the pre-formed strips of metal which range from 0.01mm upto 1mm) and I get the same measured value. But with the calipers, I'm about 0.2mm off.
For me, I no longer use the calipers to measure the clutch gap. I use a tool somewhat similar to the filler gauge where you slide in the filler gauge where the shims go at the thrust bearing.
Originally posted by InitialD
Mark, I didn't get to do the measuring yet. Came back late last night.
Mark, I didn't get to do the measuring yet. Came back late last night.
For me, I no longer use the calipers to measure the clutch gap. I use a tool somewhat similar to the filler gauge where you slide in the filler gauge where the shims go at the thrust bearing.
Cheers, Mark.
Originally posted by markp27
Young GF
Young GF
Originally posted by markp27
Yep, the calipers are too prone to error, I find.
Yep, the calipers are too prone to error, I find.
Originally posted by InitialD
A young gentleman (ahem ) [...]
A young gentleman (ahem ) [...]
Unless you get the Team Tamale one...
Having said that, it seems that my driving technique isn't compatible with clutch gaps less than 0.7mm and this is where the problem lies.......maybe I should find some ultra-high temp bearings instead!!
I shall re-test everything when I have my light weight clutch bells, though.
Cheers, Mark.
Originally posted by markp27
*cough* you fail to meet either criteria
*cough* you fail to meet either criteria
Originally posted by markp27
Having said that, it seems that my driving technique isn't compatible with clutch gaps less than 0.7mm and this is where the problem lies.......maybe I should find some ultra-high temp bearings instead!!
I shall re-test everything when I have my light weight clutch bells, though.
Having said that, it seems that my driving technique isn't compatible with clutch gaps less than 0.7mm and this is where the problem lies.......maybe I should find some ultra-high temp bearings instead!!
I shall re-test everything when I have my light weight clutch bells, though.
Originally posted by InitialD
At least I don't pretend.
At least I don't pretend.
Mark, my guess is the way the clutch shoes "sit" and make contact into the clutch bell. Only part of the clutch shoe touches the mating clutchbell (the angled part). Perhaps the measurement differences come from the "just touching" and "fully touching" the clutchbell... Just a thought.
I think what is critical is that with the calipers, the clutch bell is pushed down on one side slightly. Maybe there is a tendency to over compensate, making the clutch gap measurement larger than it actually is.
Originally posted by InitialD
Mark, I didn't get to do the measuring yet. Came back late last night.
For me, I no longer use the calipers to measure the clutch gap. I use a tool somewhat similar to the filler gauge where you slide in the filler gauge where the shims go at the thrust bearing.
Mark, I didn't get to do the measuring yet. Came back late last night.
For me, I no longer use the calipers to measure the clutch gap. I use a tool somewhat similar to the filler gauge where you slide in the filler gauge where the shims go at the thrust bearing.
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Has anyone noticed that the 710 thread now has 710 pages
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Guys,
Need a lil help.
Just put together a 710. After every run(couple of mins) my clutch end play goes from 0.2 to zero play. It looks like the clutch bell is pushed toward the thrust bearing and then it stays there pressing against the thrust bearing.
When I take a socket wrench and put it over the thrust bearing and slightly tap(toward the engine) the 1st gear pinion only, I get my end play back. Then it happens again.....weird!! My thrust B ain't gonna last.
Could it be that my ball bearing is getting jammed in the 1st gear pinion housing?
Planning to sand the inside of the housing.
Any comments?
Need a lil help.
Just put together a 710. After every run(couple of mins) my clutch end play goes from 0.2 to zero play. It looks like the clutch bell is pushed toward the thrust bearing and then it stays there pressing against the thrust bearing.
When I take a socket wrench and put it over the thrust bearing and slightly tap(toward the engine) the 1st gear pinion only, I get my end play back. Then it happens again.....weird!! My thrust B ain't gonna last.
Could it be that my ball bearing is getting jammed in the 1st gear pinion housing?
Planning to sand the inside of the housing.
Any comments?