Julius

Hi Jag,

Good to hear the setup is an improvement. When changeing from 37s to 40s I find normally the steering gets laess and the balance shifts a bit to the rear. It's like you lose more in front than in the rear, which is what you need I guess.

If you still have too much steering I'd stiffen the front bar and/or increase the tension on the clamp of the front diff.

Good luck.
Julius

jag

I don't know if I have too much steering. I would say that I like the way the front works and I will adjust my driving to suit the car. The car always seemed to have a push that I didn't really enjoy. This is a whole new experience for me. I am not a very good driver (yet) so I think the steering will help me. So if I want the front to stay relatively the same but I want a little more traction in the rear, can I get that or is it a trade-off between the front and the rear? Is it simply that the front is so tight that the rear can't keep up or are there adjustments I can make to help the rear without hurting the front? It maybe that the rear is good but I am over-driving the car? It's hard for me to tell.

Justrace, I need your help. Are you available this weekend?

BTW, I used to think brakes were over-rated... not anymore.

Thanks,
jag

_cyclops_

Braking r0cks, with front diff, it rules

Julius, will thicker oil in the rear shocks help get a little more tracktion when powering out of a corner?

Julius

@ Jag, It is always a trade off. A good rear can be overpowered by too much front bite. If you have traction roll problems you'll need to get more rear or less front. Using 40's might be all you need to do as it just takes a slight amount of initial bite away from the front.
Anyhow more rear grip will always mean less steering in a way. Try the front diff and sway bar adjustments they are easy to make while running and you immediately feel the change and see if you like it.

@cyclops, normally lighter rear oil will not give more forward on power traction in the rear. More often stiffer damping will give better results.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Let me know how you go

BB

New_Toasted

Since I always lose screws in one way or anonther I'm thinking of buying a stainless steel kit of screws from RCScrewz so I have some reserves. Has anyone tried those?

sparksy

iTrader: (14)

I'm still here. Just spending a little too much time with BF2.

It gets hotter in Malaysia. Well it was bloody hot when I was there at christmas. Espicially in the Bars in Penang and KL.

rwisejr

I use them and they work great for me . Since I have a multitude of R/C's I bought the monster racers kit .

fulcrum2

@InitialD


I went through some old postings recently and you were refering to a link called "ritcheyracingengines" multiple times, when you wrote about engine tuning tips, etc.
The link seems to be gone. Could you please tell me the new http adress of this guy, or do you have any other interesting links abt. tuning nitro engines?

Many thanks in advance!

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Greetings Mr Sparks,

I hope you an the Mrs. are well and she is keeping you out of trouble...

Good to see you playing BF2, i hope they have fixed up some of the bugs in recently Is it life like enough?

Talk to you soon...

BB

InitialD

InitialD

InitialD

Ummm, I think that's Dennis Ritchey's website. I think it's already gone. I don't know if I copied the contents somewhere in my hard drive. Will paste it here if I find it. Hope Dennis does not mind.

InitialD

Jag, some suggestions here. If your track is flat, I would try using very little droop in the rear, say 8 or 9. Maybe 1 in the front. What tire diameters are you using? Too much rear droop makes for too much weight transfer to the front. This would cause too much steering and loss of stability and secondly the car becomes lazy.

Ride height maybe 5 in front and 6 in the rear. I like the rear to be higher than the front because for one thing, the rear tires wear faster. Secondly, when you're on power, the rear dives under acceleration.

As for camber, make the fronts wear flat while for the rear, use as much camber to make the rear tires slightly cone from the inside to outside (slightly smaller diameter in the inside). Left and right camber need not necessary be the same depending on the track layout.

Probably lessen the front toe out to 1 or 0.5. Mid corner speed increases and initial steering into corners will also lessen. Depending on your driving style, it may be easier to drive this way to make the car less sensitive to steering input. If you're not getting enough ON power steering, lessen the rear toe in. 3 is a lot I think. If you're using this much to tame the rear, I suggest you look somewhere else to get the balance back to the rear of the car. Too much straight line speed is scrubbed off also with a lot of rear toe in.

For the front diffs, I would generally try to get the front HARDER than the rear and then work my way from there. I do this mostly for stability of the car when powering out of the corners. Tightening the rear diff harder than front diff will cause the car to twitch and the rear swapping ends when you power out of corners. If I don't get enough steering because the front diff is harder than the rear, I'll get steering back by hardening my rear sway bar till I find the right balance. I go as much as taking off the front sway bars to get steering back. I use the optional harder 2.5mm sway bar and mount it inside the the rear bottom arms (stock setting is mounting it on the outer side).

For shocks, you may want to try 40wt Serpent oil for more responsive car. Are you using 1.2mm hole pistons or just the 1.0mm ones?

The roll centers I use on my 710 are the same as yours except that I use the highest front roll center (no shims underneath). I like how the car reacts and responds from left to right with a higher roll center in the front.

InitialD

Yes, I do this also. I find the harder the rear sway bar setting, the better side bite I get. Of course up to a certain setting and you don't get that advantage anymore. So much so I'd just stick to the same rear sway bar setting for more front bite and just adjust the front diff to get more or less steering.