Originally Posted by Julius

@ Jag, It is always a trade off. A good rear can be overpowered by too much front bite. If you have traction roll problems you'll need to get more rear or less front. Using 40's might be all you need to do as it just takes a slight amount of initial bite away from the front.
Anyhow more rear grip will always mean less steering in a way. Try the front diff and sway bar adjustments they are easy to make while running and you immediately feel the change and see if you like it.

@cyclops, normally lighter rear oil will not give more forward on power traction in the rear. More often stiffer damping will give better results.

Originally Posted by InitialD

Jag, some suggestions here. If your track is flat, I would try using very little droop in the rear, say 8 or 9. Maybe 1 in the front. What tire diameters are you using? Too much rear droop makes for too much weight transfer to the front. This would cause too much steering and loss of stability and secondly the car becomes lazy.

Ride height maybe 5 in front and 6 in the rear. I like the rear to be higher than the front because for one thing, the rear tires wear faster. Secondly, when you're on power, the rear dives under acceleration.

As for camber, make the fronts wear flat while for the rear, use as much camber to make the rear tires slightly cone from the inside to outside (slightly smaller diameter in the inside). Left and right camber need not necessary be the same depending on the track layout.

Probably lessen the front toe out to 1 or 0.5. Mid corner speed increases and initial steering into corners will also lessen. Depending on your driving style, it may be easier to drive this way to make the car less sensitive to steering input. If you're not getting enough ON power steering, lessen the rear toe in. 3 is a lot I think. If you're using this much to tame the rear, I suggest you look somewhere else to get the balance back to the rear of the car. Too much straight line speed is scrubbed off also with a lot of rear toe in.

For the front diffs, I would generally try to get the front HARDER than the rear and then work my way from there. I do this mostly for stability of the car when powering out of the corners. Tightening the rear diff harder than front diff will cause the car to twitch and the rear swapping ends when you power out of corners. If I don't get enough steering because the front diff is harder than the rear, I'll get steering back by hardening my rear sway bar till I find the right balance. I go as much as taking off the front sway bars to get steering back. I use the optional harder 2.5mm sway bar and mount it inside the the rear bottom arms (stock setting is mounting it on the outer side).

For shocks, you may want to try 40wt Serpent oil for more responsive car. Are you using 1.2mm hole pistons or just the 1.0mm ones?

The roll centers I use on my 710 are the same as yours except that I use the highest front roll center (no shims underneath). I like how the car reacts and responds from left to right with a higher roll center in the front.

Originally Posted by InitialD

Yes, I do this also. I find the harder the rear sway bar setting, the better side bite I get. Of course up to a certain setting and you don't get that advantage anymore. So much so I'd just stick to the same rear sway bar setting for more front bite and just adjust the front diff to get more or less steering.

Originally Posted by jag

I will slap some 40's on there and give it a go. I'll will also try tightening the front diff until It gets bad so I know how it feels.

How does the front sway bar effect the car?

Thanks,
jag

Originally Posted by jag

I think I have enough on power steering. You think 3 degrees is a lot of toe for the rear? Last time at Ft Meyers, Paolo told me to start with 4 and decrease it as the traction comes up. I think he was running 2.5 in the main. I agree that you loose forward speed but I thought less rear toe in makes the car more difficult to drive?

Originally Posted by Julius

Harder bar less front grip. Softer bar more front grip.
If rear on throttle grip is your problem diff settings are the thing to look at first. You'll be amazed by how much you can change the balance. It is very easy too as you can change the setting so easily during practice sessions. It is one reason why I like the ball diff over an oil diff.

Originally Posted by jag

I always thought the front sway bar effected the rear and the rear sway bar effected the front. Is that not true?

Originally Posted by Greg M

I tried the 3mm rear sway bar last time I ran to get more turn in at the end of the straight, it helped but was traction rolling on a particular corner, the 2.5mm bar was better for the traction rolling, but still need more turn in on power. I willl be trying the standard bar if it ever stops raining on a race day!!

Originally Posted by jag

I always thought the front sway bar effected the rear and the rear sway bar effected the front. Is that not true?

Originally Posted by jag

Have you ever raced at Ft. Meyers?

Originally Posted by InitialD

... I believe if you search the sgrid forum, you would find a posting from Julius on how to drive around the Ft Myers track. I think he posted it here too but I can't seem to find it.

Originally Posted by _cyclops_

Don't you guys have a problem with the rear being tricky when removing the front sway bar? Can this unstability be solved by using thinker shock oil or less holes?

Originally Posted by Sow&Steady

And now he will race at the European Championships, possibly his last race for a long while. Seeing that he is not racing full time and still goes ballistically fast, he'll no doubt kick a few a$$e$ including those of prophets.