Serpent 710
04-28-2005, 01:19 PM
Originally posted by New_Toasted
Has anyone noticed that the 710 thread now has 710 pages
Has anyone noticed that the 710 thread now has 710 pages
THERE!
I've staked my claim on the 710th page of the 710- Forum yeah!
04-28-2005, 01:21 PM
Originally posted by Pandora's Box
Guys,
Need a lil help.
Just put together a 710. After every run(couple of mins) my clutch end play goes from 0.2 to zero play. It looks like the clutch bell is pushed toward the thrust bearing and then it stays there pressing against the thrust bearing.
When I take a socket wrench and put it over the thrust bearing and slightly tap(toward the engine) the 1st gear pinion only, I get my end play back. Then it happens again.....weird!! My thrust B ain't gonna last.
Could it be that my ball bearing is getting jammed in the 1st gear pinion housing?
Planning to sand the inside of the housing.
Any comments?
Guys,
Need a lil help.
Just put together a 710. After every run(couple of mins) my clutch end play goes from 0.2 to zero play. It looks like the clutch bell is pushed toward the thrust bearing and then it stays there pressing against the thrust bearing.
When I take a socket wrench and put it over the thrust bearing and slightly tap(toward the engine) the 1st gear pinion only, I get my end play back. Then it happens again.....weird!! My thrust B ain't gonna last.
Could it be that my ball bearing is getting jammed in the 1st gear pinion housing?
Planning to sand the inside of the housing.
Any comments?
04-28-2005, 01:42 PM
Tech Regular
710 pages is like O M F G!
freaks
freaks
04-28-2005, 05:32 PM
Originally posted by Pandora's Box
Guys,
Need a lil help.
Just put together a 710. After every run(couple of mins) my clutch end play goes from 0.2 to zero play. It looks like the clutch bell is pushed toward the thrust bearing and then it stays there pressing against the thrust bearing.
When I take a socket wrench and put it over the thrust bearing and slightly tap(toward the engine) the 1st gear pinion only, I get my end play back. Then it happens again.....weird!! My thrust B ain't gonna last.
Could it be that my ball bearing is getting jammed in the 1st gear pinion housing?
Planning to sand the inside of the housing.
Any comments?
Guys,
Need a lil help.
Just put together a 710. After every run(couple of mins) my clutch end play goes from 0.2 to zero play. It looks like the clutch bell is pushed toward the thrust bearing and then it stays there pressing against the thrust bearing.
When I take a socket wrench and put it over the thrust bearing and slightly tap(toward the engine) the 1st gear pinion only, I get my end play back. Then it happens again.....weird!! My thrust B ain't gonna last.
Could it be that my ball bearing is getting jammed in the 1st gear pinion housing?
Planning to sand the inside of the housing.
Any comments?
I'm on the 710th page!!!
04-28-2005, 07:28 PM
Originally posted by Pandora's Box
Could it be that my ball bearing is getting jammed in the 1st gear pinion housing?
Planning to sand the inside of the housing.
Could it be that my ball bearing is getting jammed in the 1st gear pinion housing?
Planning to sand the inside of the housing.
04-28-2005, 07:35 PM
Thanks D,
unless I can find an impulse chassis... looks like I'll have to abandon ship!
unless I can find an impulse chassis... looks like I'll have to abandon ship!
Originally posted by InitialD
The receiver pack is the least of the problems... Besides, Impulse uses the common flat receiver pack and you can mount it anywhere under the radio tray as what the Impulse used to do.
The radio tray, the X bar support and the engine mounting needs to be looked into if you want to change the 705 chassis to be used on the Impulse. I'm very sure the engine mounting and the position where the engine is mounted is different on the 705 and the Impulse.
The receiver pack is the least of the problems... Besides, Impulse uses the common flat receiver pack and you can mount it anywhere under the radio tray as what the Impulse used to do.
The radio tray, the X bar support and the engine mounting needs to be looked into if you want to change the 705 chassis to be used on the Impulse. I'm very sure the engine mounting and the position where the engine is mounted is different on the 705 and the Impulse.
04-28-2005, 08:12 PM
Originally posted by JustRace
Initial....I found with the filler guage that I get inconsistent measurements. The shim/trust bearing still has a chance to tilt to one side while making the measurement. Have you tried putting in all the shims until the clutch bell is barely tight. Then just remove the amount of gap that you want. Works great.
Initial....I found with the filler guage that I get inconsistent measurements. The shim/trust bearing still has a chance to tilt to one side while making the measurement. Have you tried putting in all the shims until the clutch bell is barely tight. Then just remove the amount of gap that you want. Works great.
But the one I use looks like this (pardon the link as I cannot find any pics of it). It acts like a flywheel holder and the graduated slots in the bottom are where you fit the thrust bearing collar to measure the clutch gap. It can measure 0.4 mm clutch gap till 0.9 mm if I'm not mistaken. The way the gauge is made on the wrench by sliding the different thickness over thrust bearing to measure the correct clutch gap, it's the same way as putting as much shims until the clutch bell is barely tight.
But I'll try the method you mention and see if it's any different.
04-29-2005, 07:01 AM
Originally posted by JustRace
Initial....I found with the filler guage that I get inconsistent measurements. The shim/trust bearing still has a chance to tilt to one side while making the measurement. Have you tried putting in all the shims until the clutch bell is barely tight. Then just remove the amount of gap that you want. Works great.
Initial....I found with the filler guage that I get inconsistent measurements. The shim/trust bearing still has a chance to tilt to one side while making the measurement. Have you tried putting in all the shims until the clutch bell is barely tight. Then just remove the amount of gap that you want. Works great.
04-29-2005, 07:18 AM
Try 0.7mm at first, if you find that it bites too hard, then lower the gap down to 0.5mm and see if that is better for you.
Above 0.8mm you'll probably find the clutch is too agressive.
But at first I would stick to 0.7mm and play around with the pre-tension spring to get the best acceleration out of the corner.
Too much pre-tension and your engine will rev too high before the clutch engages, too little and the engine will bog down.
Cheers, Mark.
Above 0.8mm you'll probably find the clutch is too agressive.
But at first I would stick to 0.7mm and play around with the pre-tension spring to get the best acceleration out of the corner.
Too much pre-tension and your engine will rev too high before the clutch engages, too little and the engine will bog down.
Cheers, Mark.
04-29-2005, 09:47 AM
Originally posted by JustRace
Check to see if the clutch bell moves back and forth smoothly. I usually insert the bearing into the first gear pinion before screwing onto second gear pinion. You'll find that the bearing goes in and out of first pinion easily.
I'm on the 710th page!!!
Check to see if the clutch bell moves back and forth smoothly. I usually insert the bearing into the first gear pinion before screwing onto second gear pinion. You'll find that the bearing goes in and out of first pinion easily.
I'm on the 710th page!!!
04-29-2005, 12:16 PM
Originally posted by InitialD
Justrace, yes if you use ordinary type automative filler gauge, the problems you mentioned can occur.
But the one I use looks like this (pardon the link as I cannot find any pics of it). It acts like a flywheel holder and the graduated slots in the bottom are where you fit the thrust bearing collar to measure the clutch gap. It can measure 0.4 mm clutch gap till 0.9 mm if I'm not mistaken. The way the gauge is made on the wrench by sliding the different thickness over thrust bearing to measure the correct clutch gap, it's the same way as putting as much shims until the clutch bell is barely tight.
But I'll try the method you mention and see if it's any different.
Justrace, yes if you use ordinary type automative filler gauge, the problems you mentioned can occur.
But the one I use looks like this (pardon the link as I cannot find any pics of it). It acts like a flywheel holder and the graduated slots in the bottom are where you fit the thrust bearing collar to measure the clutch gap. It can measure 0.4 mm clutch gap till 0.9 mm if I'm not mistaken. The way the gauge is made on the wrench by sliding the different thickness over thrust bearing to measure the correct clutch gap, it's the same way as putting as much shims until the clutch bell is barely tight.
But I'll try the method you mention and see if it's any different.
04-29-2005, 12:39 PM
Originally posted by JustRace
Initial...Please try both ways and tell us what you come up with. Hopefully it's the same so I can save $19
Initial...Please try both ways and tell us what you come up with. Hopefully it's the same so I can save $19
Hey, don't be so cheap - I want my pit monkey to have the best equipment for next years winternats 
04-29-2005, 12:44 PM
Tech Fanatic
i am just writing to get on page 710!!!
04-29-2005, 01:24 PM
Originally posted by markp27
Hey, don't be so cheap - I want my pit monkey to have the best equipment for next years winternats
Hey, don't be so cheap - I want my pit monkey to have the best equipment for next years winternats
04-29-2005, 01:25 PM
Originally posted by joemugen
i am just writing to get on page 710!!!
i am just writing to get on page 710!!!
See you this weekend. Oh..can I borrow the JP?