Serpent 710
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 315
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by markp27
Modest as ever, Glenn
Hmm, that would have been interesting for me, as even when I follow your building tips to the letter, I keep blowing the two metal shielded bearings - I posted an article in the 3hobby forums about this - maybe you could give your comments?
I saw this yesterday whilst scanning mytsn - very nice article - makes me want to get a Veteq
I love tinkering, so I think I would like this car - but there again, I still have a Vector NT which still hasn't turned a wheel 
We will forgive you if you promise to come to next years Winternats??
Modest as ever, Glenn

Hmm, that would have been interesting for me, as even when I follow your building tips to the letter, I keep blowing the two metal shielded bearings - I posted an article in the 3hobby forums about this - maybe you could give your comments?
I saw this yesterday whilst scanning mytsn - very nice article - makes me want to get a Veteq
I love tinkering, so I think I would like this car - but there again, I still have a Vector NT which still hasn't turned a wheel 
We will forgive you if you promise to come to next years Winternats??
Just a humble 'ol Canadian... that's me!
I have read the thread on 3hobby, and a lot of the responses seem to make sense. I had some thoughts... perhaps the ball-bearings are not sitting right in the pinion, or the pinion is warped making the bearings tilt a bit. That would toast the ball-bearings really quickly. Good ways to tell if the pinion is warped: there are noticable tight-spots when checking gearmesh, and also when you do the final "push-pull" to check endplay... does the clutchbell slide smoothly on the crank or does it bind? Do you have the thin alum. shim installed between the two pinion gears? The 2mm spring preload seems excessive to me. As for endplay, I had to add close to 1mm of spacers to get the proper minimal endplay in my clutch.
I hope to get a Veteq revolution going... Fabulous cars! When they are set up properly they cannot be beat!
Winternats... hmmm....
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Just a humble 'ol Canadian... that's me!
I have read the thread on 3hobby, and a lot of the responses seem to make sense. I had some thoughts... perhaps the ball-bearings are not sitting right in the pinion, or the pinion is warped making the bearings tilt a bit. That would toast the ball-bearings really quickly. Good ways to tell if the pinion is warped: there are noticable tight-spots when checking gearmesh, and also when you do the final "push-pull" to check endplay... does the clutchbell slide smoothly on the crank or does it bind? Do you have the thin alum. shim installed between the two pinion gears? The 2mm spring preload seems excessive to me. As for endplay, I had to add close to 1mm of spacers to get the proper minimal endplay in my clutch.
I hope to get a Veteq revolution going... Fabulous cars! When they are set up properly they cannot be beat!
Winternats... hmmm....
Just a humble 'ol Canadian... that's me!
I have read the thread on 3hobby, and a lot of the responses seem to make sense. I had some thoughts... perhaps the ball-bearings are not sitting right in the pinion, or the pinion is warped making the bearings tilt a bit. That would toast the ball-bearings really quickly. Good ways to tell if the pinion is warped: there are noticable tight-spots when checking gearmesh, and also when you do the final "push-pull" to check endplay... does the clutchbell slide smoothly on the crank or does it bind? Do you have the thin alum. shim installed between the two pinion gears? The 2mm spring preload seems excessive to me. As for endplay, I had to add close to 1mm of spacers to get the proper minimal endplay in my clutch.
I hope to get a Veteq revolution going... Fabulous cars! When they are set up properly they cannot be beat!
Winternats... hmmm....

The pinions are ok, but getting the first metal shielded bearing into the first gear was quite tight - I fell that this is where my problems may have come from. Certainly the push-pull wasn't so smooth. Now I've dremelled it out, so that the bearing fits in perfectly
The push, pull action is now very smooth 
I have the new pinion gears and for them, there is no spacer required anymore.
But I don't add anywhere near 1mm for end-play - I'm adding 0.5 for one engine and 0.6mm worth of spacer for the other one ..... you sure you put the 0.5mm spacer between the engine and the brass cone? J/K
Well, I'm off to a race at the weekend in Austria - I'll meet up with Rene there and see if he can cast his expert eye on my shoddy work
Maybe you should write an article on how to go about setting up the Veteq - I'd be very interested in reading something like that
I'm really interested in its mechanical side.Re: Winternats - that sounded like a very positive yes to me
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 315
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by markp27
Hey Mr Humble Canadian
The pinions are ok, but getting the first metal shielded bearing into the first gear was quite tight - I fell that this is where my problems may have come from. Certainly the push-pull wasn't so smooth. Now I've dremelled it out, so that the bearing fits in perfectly
The push, pull action is now very smooth 
I have the new pinion gears and for them, there is no spacer required anymore.
But I don't add anywhere near 1mm for end-play - I'm adding 0.5 for one engine and 0.6mm worth of spacer for the other one ..... you sure you put the 0.5mm spacer between the engine and the brass cone? J/K
Well, I'm off to a race at the weekend in Austria - I'll meet up with Rene there and see if he can cast his expert eye on my shoddy work
Maybe you should write an article on how to go about setting up the Veteq - I'd be very interested in reading something like that
I'm really interested in its mechanical side.
Re: Winternats - that sounded like a very positive yes to me
Hey Mr Humble Canadian

The pinions are ok, but getting the first metal shielded bearing into the first gear was quite tight - I fell that this is where my problems may have come from. Certainly the push-pull wasn't so smooth. Now I've dremelled it out, so that the bearing fits in perfectly
The push, pull action is now very smooth 
I have the new pinion gears and for them, there is no spacer required anymore.
But I don't add anywhere near 1mm for end-play - I'm adding 0.5 for one engine and 0.6mm worth of spacer for the other one ..... you sure you put the 0.5mm spacer between the engine and the brass cone? J/K
Well, I'm off to a race at the weekend in Austria - I'll meet up with Rene there and see if he can cast his expert eye on my shoddy work
Maybe you should write an article on how to go about setting up the Veteq - I'd be very interested in reading something like that
I'm really interested in its mechanical side.Re: Winternats - that sounded like a very positive yes to me
Mark, I didn't think you even knew how to SPELL "shoddy" let alone do it!
I think that we may put together a Veteq guide... with our own experiences, and we will probably draw on help from other more knowledgable sources.
Winternats... time? place? Ahhh... money money money... but then I sure picked the worst class to get into for that. hehehe
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Best of luck in Austria. Say "Hello" to Rene for me... we haven't spoken in quite a while!
Best of luck in Austria. Say "Hello" to Rene for me... we haven't spoken in quite a while!
Mark, I didn't think you even knew how to SPELL "shoddy" let alone do it!

I think that we may put together a Veteq guide... with our own experiences, and we will probably draw on help from other more knowledgable sources.
Winternats... time? place? Ahhh... money money money... but then I sure picked the worst class to get into for that. hehehe
Just reserve the begining of Feb and see what happens 
Cheers, Mark.
Originally posted by markp27
I love tinkering, so I think I would like this car - but there again, I still have a Vector NT which still hasn't turned a wheel
I love tinkering, so I think I would like this car - but there again, I still have a Vector NT which still hasn't turned a wheel
Even Uncle Crash is raring to get one when he saw how fierce these beast were in Thailand.
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Sorry to have dropped out of the 200mm class... but I was bitten by the 1:8 bug. My S710 now has a good home.
Sorry to have dropped out of the 200mm class... but I was bitten by the 1:8 bug. My S710 now has a good home.
Having never driven eighth scaler model before, I was wondering if you might have any slight ideas on how to make the 710 drives/behaves like its big brother using lola body ?
Originally posted by InitialD
Mark, slap in a Mega Powerpack and you'll be good to go.
Even Uncle Crash is raring to get one when he saw how fierce these beast were in Thailand.
Mark, slap in a Mega Powerpack and you'll be good to go.
Even Uncle Crash is raring to get one when he saw how fierce these beast were in Thailand.
Well, I'm off to a race at the weekend in Austria - I'll meet up with Rene there and see if he can cast his expert eye on my shoddy work
Last weekend was an club open race for guests.
I finished second with my S710 with Sirio engine.
RESULTS:
http://www.morac-graz.at/rennen05/er...1-05_morac.htm
Did you drive on this track yet?
What setup are you gonna use?
Best Regards
Ognjen
Slovenia
Originally posted by lagnaf
Me too Mark! With all of my friends from Slovenia. Eight of them till know.
Last weekend was an club open race for guests.
I finished second with my S710 with Sirio engine.
RESULTS:
http://www.morac-graz.at/rennen05/er...1-05_morac.htm
Did you drive on this track yet?
What setup are you gonna use?
Best Regards
Ognjen
Slovenia
Me too Mark! With all of my friends from Slovenia. Eight of them till know.
Last weekend was an club open race for guests.
I finished second with my S710 with Sirio engine.
RESULTS:
http://www.morac-graz.at/rennen05/er...1-05_morac.htm
Did you drive on this track yet?
What setup are you gonna use?
Best Regards
Ognjen
Slovenia
I've never driven on this circuit, so it'll be a steep learning curve in the time I have available 
I'll start out with a setup similar to Julius' LRP Luxembourg one.
What gearing where you using?
Cheers, Mark.
Originally posted by markp27
Cool!!
I've never driven on this circuit, so it'll be a steep learning curve in the time I have available 
I'll start out with a setup similar to Julius' LRP Luxembourg one.
What gearing where you using?
Cheers, Mark.
Cool!!
I've never driven on this circuit, so it'll be a steep learning curve in the time I have available 
I'll start out with a setup similar to Julius' LRP Luxembourg one.
What gearing where you using?
Cheers, Mark.
Exept the new side alu pully 21T with tire difference 3 mm
smaller to front(thanks to Julius).Must not forget that I was also using front ball differential (wery tight).
Best Regards
Ognjen
Originally posted by InitialD
Mark, slap in a Mega Powerpack and you'll be good to go.
Even Uncle Crash is raring to get one when he saw how fierce these beast were in Thailand.
Mark, slap in a Mega Powerpack and you'll be good to go.
Even Uncle Crash is raring to get one when he saw how fierce these beast were in Thailand.
Thai Best Driver did tell me that 1/10 Mega engine is very good.
Originally posted by Darth Vader
Just a question guys.
I see most of the setup running ~3deg camber at the back. Even the stock setup is so...
Don't you guys get uneven tyre wear? My tyres get coned when I run that high camber at the back.
Just a question guys.
I see most of the setup running ~3deg camber at the back. Even the stock setup is so...
Don't you guys get uneven tyre wear? My tyres get coned when I run that high camber at the back.
How much is it coned? Smaller diameter in the inner side compared to the outer or vice versa? If smaller diameter in the inner side, then it's good. Not too much though.
Anyway, set the rear camber so that it's just slightly coned (smaller inner diameter compared to outer). For the front tires, make sure the camber is enough to make them wear flat.
Originally posted by lagnaf
My whole car was by default.
Exept the new side alu pully 21T with tire difference 3 mm
smaller to front(thanks to Julius).
Must not forget that I was also using front ball differential (wery tight).
Best Regards
Ognjen
My whole car was by default.
Exept the new side alu pully 21T with tire difference 3 mm
smaller to front(thanks to Julius).Must not forget that I was also using front ball differential (wery tight).
Best Regards
Ognjen
Cheers, Mark.



