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WE JUST HAD A INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION IN LIMA PERU
WHERE SEVERAL RACERS FROM THE REGION ATENDED AND FROM THE MTX5 KITS SOME WITH BRACE SOME WITHOUT NONE STRIPPED GEARS ON SOME THE STOCK REAR DIFF BROKE OUT, IT LASTED ABOUT A GALLON - SOME TWO GALLONS FUEL WITHOUT ANY MAINTENANCE, HIGH TRACTION AND JUST RUNNING CLOCKWISE IF PROPER CARE IS DONE, CHANGING THE OIL EVERY RACE, AND ROTATING THE GEARS I BET THEYLL LAST 4 OR MORE |
Originally Posted by Seisick
(Post 10439713)
WE JUST HAD A INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION IN LIMA PERU
WHERE SEVERAL RACERS FROM THE REGION ATENDED AND FROM THE MTX5 KITS SOME WITH BRACE SOME WITHOUT NONE STRIPPED GEARS ON SOME THE STOCK REAR DIFF BROKE OUT, IT LASTED ABOUT A GALLON - SOME TWO GALLONS FUEL WITHOUT ANY MAINTENANCE, HIGH TRACTION AND JUST RUNNING CLOCKWISE IF PROPER CARE IS DONE, CHANGING THE OIL EVERY RACE, AND ROTATING THE GEARS I BET THEYLL LAST 4 OR MORE sorry if i sound newbie... I am!!!:eek::blush: |
Originally Posted by prtmotorsport
(Post 10440213)
What do you mean rotating the gears?? back to forth??
sorry if i sound newbie... I am!!!:eek::blush: |
Anybody seeing the T2002 kit in the states yet? I've got one on order with my LHS, getting excited.
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Originally Posted by Seisick
(Post 10439713)
WE JUST HAD A INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION IN LIMA PERU
WHERE SEVERAL RACERS FROM THE REGION ATENDED AND FROM THE MTX5 KITS SOME WITH BRACE SOME WITHOUT NONE STRIPPED GEARS ON SOME THE STOCK REAR DIFF BROKE OUT, IT LASTED ABOUT A GALLON - SOME TWO GALLONS FUEL WITHOUT ANY MAINTENANCE, HIGH TRACTION AND JUST RUNNING CLOCKWISE IF PROPER CARE IS DONE, CHANGING THE OIL EVERY RACE, AND ROTATING THE GEARS I BET THEYLL LAST 4 OR MORE From all these reports of broken diff gears it is becoming apparent that at least the larger crown gears are swapped over from the plastic type to the metal type. I have full plastic gears in my rear diffs but i am thinking of changing to steel large crown gears to avoid erratic and unpredictable wear. Hopefully my next race will be at the NSW state titles, so i don't want blown gears.:cry: |
Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
(Post 10441809)
Anybody seeing the T2002 kit in the states yet? I've got one on order with my LHS, getting excited.
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Originally Posted by Seisick
(Post 10440660)
rotate left right front and rear, specially if its high traction and just one direction racing
TomB Quote: Originally Posted by Seisick View Post WE JUST HAD A INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION IN LIMA PERU WHERE SEVERAL RACERS FROM THE REGION ATENDED AND FROM THE MTX5 KITS SOME WITH BRACE SOME WITHOUT NONE STRIPPED GEARS ON SOME THE STOCK REAR DIFF BROKE OUT, IT LASTED ABOUT A GALLON - SOME TWO GALLONS FUEL WITHOUT ANY MAINTENANCE, HIGH TRACTION AND JUST RUNNING CLOCKWISE IF PROPER CARE IS DONE, CHANGING THE OIL EVERY RACE, AND ROTATING THE GEARS I BET THEYLL LAST 4 OR MORE would anyone know if capricorn diffs are this finiky? sounds a little unneccessary to save 4 grams or so of rotating mass but be given an unpredictable diff. From all these reports of broken diff gears it is becoming apparent that at least the larger crown gears are swapped over from the plastic type to the metal type. I have full plastic gears in my rear diffs but i am thinking of changing to steel large crown gears to avoid erratic and unpredictable wear. Hopefully my next race will be at the NSW state titles, so i don't want blown gears. Today 04:37 AM |
does anyone can say to me the diameter from the mtx5 flywheel?
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diff
we tried km aluminium ones same as plastic after saturday we broke a diff every heat standard ones lasted 6 laps now we find out diff plastic bits that out drives go in are way to tight and this is probably the cause of all our diff troubles i though they were tight to stop leaking borrowed one from bishop and with steel already installed and bailey got to run in final with no troubles diff is still real smooth but fuel line came off at start /to lose bloody coloured stuff thanks for lend off diff bishop fellow mugen driver
greg |
Originally Posted by GREGORY!
(Post 10448479)
does anyone can say to me the diameter from the mtx5 flywheel?
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Originally Posted by greg.dawn
(Post 10449673)
we tried km aluminium ones same as plastic after saturday we broke a diff every heat standard ones lasted 6 laps now we find out diff plastic bits that out drives go in are way to tight and this is probably the cause of all our diff troubles i though they were tight to stop leaking borrowed one from bishop and with steel already installed and bailey got to run in final with no troubles diff is still real smooth but fuel line came off at start /to lose bloody coloured stuff thanks for lend off diff bishop fellow mugen driver
greg |
Originally Posted by TomB
(Post 10449674)
it is 30mm
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Originally Posted by greg.dawn
(Post 10449673)
we tried km aluminium ones same as plastic after saturday we broke a diff every heat standard ones lasted 6 laps now we find out diff plastic bits that out drives go in are way to tight and this is probably the cause of all our diff troubles i though they were tight to stop leaking borrowed one from bishop and with steel already installed and bailey got to run in final with no troubles diff is still real smooth but fuel line came off at start /to lose bloody coloured stuff thanks for lend off diff bishop fellow mugen driver
greg |
Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
(Post 10451255)
Is it so tight that stacking a few gaskets wouldn't fix the problem?
When I build my own diffs I actually put a tiny bit of grease on the outdrive pins before I slide them into the case, but I don't think that is suggested in the Mugen build manual so I'm guessing most don't do it. In Greg's case I'm not sure what happened, or what caused it, just it really stuffed up each rebuild he kept doing within the same diff cases. |
Originally Posted by Bishop
(Post 10451504)
No, the outdrive shafts were tight in the diff half holes, one side in particular was very tight/stiff, which would have been what was causing the diff to keep failing.
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