Stripped one gear all weekend and that's after 2hr 47mins of running and I didn't check the mesh.....and I did and 18.4sec lap. The car was awesome but the gear meshing should not be this challenging.

Made my first race with the car, with little or no practice, just with my "basic setup" based on what i used on my MTX4R with a few adjustments to get what i wanted from the car.

The car worked great, no problems at all... And the MTX5 is fasssstttttt, and more important... Consistentely fast and realy easy to drive compared to the MTX4 that was allready a great car.

Made the hole weekend with the same gears, and they still look new.

Payed much attencion to the engine monting, with the mesh the clutch regulation and the 2nd speed adjustment like Robert Pietsch recomends.

Great weekend with another Mugen and another victory in the bag. :-)

Working hard for the next race.

Best regards.

Always good to hear people like the hobby / sport.:) For what i`ve seen on the track, the mugen
is very responsive.

And competitively 👍

Welcome Wuppie, i`ve seen you and Rik, racing on the webcam last race and i was really impressed with the cars performance. In the kantine turn still able to steer in the turn on full speed, very good responce. Top speed also very high with the standard engine. What happened in the final though, what was the reason of your withdrawel? What body are you using?

Looks very promising for next national, we will have lots of fun racing.;) altough in different class, Looking forward to race with you guy`s again. :D

No change you swapping to NK class, :sneaky:

But the thing to remember is, Europeans usually do not use any traction compound on the track. So high traction for us in the States is often not the same overseas.

I have been running 150 K and 80K oil as a suggestion from Barry Baker who is also running the car and it feels really good. I will try a little harder in the front for more pull out of the corner but can imagine running a different body, such as the SRS, to compensate for the lack of turn in. ... food for thought

The euros track had a good amount of traction but was very bumpy and had a lot of off-camber corners which made it quite difficult to get a good amount of steering into the car.

I hear you but I have been at tracks here where turn marshals run to flip a car over and they literally hop out of their shoes because the traction is so high!!

I kind of get the feeling some people will never be fully happy with the new car.

There is not really anything wrong with that, just maybe it requires more put into it than many are willing to do time after time.

My feelings on the car though have not changed since day one (and I had the first one in Queensland), it's light, highly responsive, generates lots of grip, and though that it's very quick. But it's not a bulletproof or foolproof design, so it was always going to trip up some people.

When I think back to people asking me about mine when I got it, I remember saying right off that some people were not going to like it, and others would struggle, and some of that would simply boil down to it not being a Mugen of old, meaning you can't treat it like an old Mugen and get away with it.

But, in use mine has been good to me (and reliable), and I have never seen anything as easy to work on (with many very sensible design features), setup or drive, so I think if you do manage to click with the design/car, you could likely be rewarded with a package that gives you a lot.

Just as a few points of interest while working on my own car in the past week or so off from racing...

I got some of those Mugen 20g chassis weights (listed for the MRX, but perfect fit in the MTX), very nice tucked away fit on the chassis, well worth getting, but with both chassis holes taking a 20g weight each, I'm still under weight as suspected (even though my most recent engine and pipe weigh more).

It's possible if I put another sliding weight in I'd be ok, but I do wonder if brass engines mounts would just be a better way to gain it.

I actually have been playing on scales in general, finding interesting things, like LP servos I suspect make the front right corner a little light, but then it's hard to offset the pipe weight, I may drop to a 1200 LiFe pack, though I think I'd be back left light then, but none of it is 'bad' as such, cause as my car stands it's only 25g lighter on one side right now, and I can fix that easy.

make yourself a new brass weight. i made one out of some brass. it ended up being 45 grams. the car is heavier on the rear. so maybe just make a heavy brass weight and place it on the forward position under the tank. a car with a weight close to 50/50 as possible would be ideal i am guessing.

From playing with my corner weight scales, I can tell you your not going to get 50/50 front to rear with any ease, you would need something north of 100g weight a long way forward to get it.

Really I don't think 50/50 front to rear is even needed onroad, maybe in something off road when your jumping, but onroad you surely want weight towards the back for better traction over the back end, possibly.

Hi JW,

Our findings with the MTX5 have so far been super. The lap times are now for about 0.4 - 0.5 seconds lower than with the previous car. And that with the basic engine.

No, we certainly will not swap to the NK class. The first club match on the MACH with the basic engine is felt us so well that we definitely drive the NOMAC this season.

In short, we are pleased to have switched to Mugen​​.

We had to withdraw because the LIPO broke down (almost empty). So no more response to the servos. Sad but true.

See you in Groningen. ;)

I have mine setup currently to be 100g in total heavier in the rear. I think when it is 50/50 it makes the car a bit 'twitchy'. It is so nice to be able to shift the weight where you prefer it though.

So how are the revised diffs holding up in the new revised T2002 kits? Just to confirm, do these new kits come with metal rear diffs and plastic front diffs? Does the plastic front diff gears last long?

With the new rear diff being a thicker plastic now, has anyone tried puting plastic gears into them to see if they last any longer then the original diff?

How is the drivetrain on tha car? Initial reports was it was very stiff and heavy, does it loosen up well after a couple of runs (like the capricorn drivetrain)?

How are the plastics (arms, hubs, etc) Any signs of wear, slop, cracks, etc after a few runs?