Originally Posted by Seisick (Post 10566454)

Sure, the silver one works superb, but its more sensitive to adjustments compared to stock one (gold) consistent in long runs I'd say, the black one won't work, to stiff

Originally Posted by Faiq-X4 (Post 10567159)

is it silver 4R clutch spring?

Originally Posted by Seisick (Post 10568557)

Correct

Originally Posted by prtmotorsport (Post 10566370)

Does anyone has any set up to try??
for a low grip track ...
Thank you guys!!

Originally Posted by Faiq-X4 (Post 10569672)

i`ll try it tomorrow :nod: any diff oil changes after using steel gears? rite now i`m using stock f 200k and r 50k...

Originally Posted by Bishop (Post 10569781)

You could try the Robert Pietsch EC setup sheet, in theory if you look at it, most things on it seem to suggest a low grip setup, lowered roll centers and soft springs and shocks.


Everyone seems to favor thicker oils of late, 300k front, around 80k rear is popular, I'm keen to try going the other way though, thinner oils used to be popular on the older 4, should make more traction if there is less on track maybe.

Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear (Post 10572725)

Kerry,

I thought everyone was having to thicker because of the diffs getting smaller in size and trying to get a similar handing to the old larger diffs etc.

When i built my MTX5 put 300,000wt oil in the front diff and added extra hole to shock pistons, but it understeers quite a bit.

Andrew

Originally Posted by kickass (Post 10509600)

I have merily Synchronised all 4 poles (See Below)




Stripping gears is definately a car problem, there are a combination of issues some that are fixable and some that are not that contribute to this problem, you can eliminate the fixable issues and this minimises your chances of stripping gears. One may ask themselves why don't Xray and Capricorn drivers have to pay so much attention to alignment and mesh in order not to strip gears, i used to slap on gears on my xray bung on a motor (mesh near enough good enough) and replace spur gears a year later cause the plastic looked old. Lets be realastic here, There is an issue with gear stripping, this is not a random event.
The ones that don"t have this problem have merily syncrinised all 4 poles and hit a G spot, the challenge is to keep hitting this g spot.


Rear diff plastic has more meat to beef it up obviously in order to address rear diff failure with plastis gears, problem now is everybody is too scared to run plastic gears, on this car. I know all you Capricorn drivers will be chuckling at this right now as their diffs are about 15 gms lighter, these are the facts.
And guess what the first time i pulled my upper bulkhead off the car it was broken and guess what again the mugen importer fails to acnowledge that this part should be replaced as a defect even when you see the new one with more beef on it,
Mugen basically sais tuff titties, just like the stripping gears just like the blowing diffs, just like the mismatching servo savers, just like the thrust ecentric holder with a wonky hole.
Oh and if anyone thinks that the driveline is free (with urethane belts) and light (with steel diffs, steel cvds, heavy spurs etc) your having yourselves on right here. Throw away these belts put the rubbers on and you will still find the side and front belts are too tight with no more adjustment.
(Capricorn drivers stop falling off your chairs in laughter right now), we don't care that your diffs are lighter, your diffs are reliable, your drive line is lighter your chassy does not hit the floor in a bow when the breaks are applied, you don't bend chassies on starter boxes, you don't blow gears, your thrust bearings spin without wobbling, you get rubber belts in the kit bla bla bla, this is all too boring for us, we Mugensuckers like a challenge, and a challenge we have got.

Other than that this is a really nice car.

Originally Posted by Bishop (Post 10569781)

You could try the Robert Pietsch EC setup sheet, in theory if you look at it, most things on it seem to suggest a low grip setup, lowered roll centers and soft springs and shocks.


Everyone seems to favor thicker oils of late, 300k front, around 80k rear is popular, I'm keen to try going the other way though, thinner oils used to be popular on the older 4, should make more traction if there is less on track maybe.

Originally Posted by TomB (Post 10573570)

go back to 200,000wt then. use softer front tyres. should have good steering out of the box

i tried the Robert P setup at an event recently. i didn't like it. Someone told me it is a high grip track setup

Originally Posted by prtmotorsport (Post 10574962)

Well , I am in the go kart business for 20 years. Long ago the kart to have more grip you had to make it softer because the chassis was really hard . Now the chassis is very very soft(reminds you something), almost feels like it has a suspension, to get more grip you make it harder, use stub bars seat supports etc.
Do you think is something similar happens to mtx5 as well?
Has anyone tried softer springs? How do they fill?

Originally Posted by Seisick (Post 10566454)

Sure, the silver one works superb, but its more sensitive to adjustments compared to stock one (gold) consistent in long runs I'd say, the black one won't work, to stiff

Originally Posted by greg.dawn (Post 10577755)

we ran nsw titles easter car was good did all the right things no gear /belts prob bailey made 2 mistakes all 4 days///1 off //changed to new diff all new steel bits old steel 1 was good and new one has seased or what ever and lasted 2 laps i gess he is pissed of after all the work to get to semi shoud have left old one in it was not broken //peters diff broke disk side off i can see a new cap on cards if you canot race the dam things it will end up under mower after being a GOOD supporter sinse prime 12 i am just about over it
pissed of pop