Originally Posted by TomB (Post 10791788)

you don't want a small amount of brakes mate. this is the logic from back in the oneway days.

you want enough brakes, for any situation. you want to be able to brake how and when you need it. you shouldn't be modfying your driving for ineffective mechanical gear, the mechanical gear should be doing everything you want it to, when you want it to.

When did you hear a 1:1 racer say "i just roll into the corners, it's quicker" Racers want power when they want it, torque when they want it, steering when they want it, grip when they want it, slide when they want it and brakes when they want it. This is the make up to a well handling car.

PS: i agree with Bishop the mod to the lever is recommended. It helps quite a bit, in saying this i have after market pads so this also helped. In general the stock brake pad material is too hard. Brace is not needed people. The MTX4 had a brace and it still stripped...remember??! brace does nothing except eliminate flex where you need it most.

PPS: the longer brake linkage works like a long spanner, it doesn't give you a more progressive brake, this is wrong, it just gives you greater leverage at the point of contact between the brake and the pads. Your car is braking more, not because you have more progression but because the longer lever actually applys more force onto the disk.

For this reason, if you want more progressive brakes you will need softer brake pad material which bites and grabs earlier. if you can find this, then you won't need the longer brake arm. I read somewhere that the motonica brake pads work well. try that, or if all else fails get the KM pads from the NT1 and stick them to mugen pads minus the sh1t material that comes stock in the kit.

Originally Posted by THE ORACLE (Post 10794203)

:cry: Ah, so good to see our favorite expert has wandered in from the RC wilderness!
By the way.....please explain what the GFY in your signature stands for :ha:

Originally Posted by djiewie (Post 10796395)

What TomB says, make`s sense. It is a good advice. i don`t agree with your thumb down.

Originally Posted by mick8488 (Post 10796465)

Hi Guys,

I just had a query about Contact RC tyres. It appears the inner rim of my rear tyres are rubbing against the wheel hubs (where you make your toe adjustments). I am not sure if it is a clearance issue with the tyre or Mugen has made the hubs too thick or the tyres flex too much under load but I just was wondering if any of you had similar problem before? The front tyres seem fine though. As far as grip goes, the tyres are as good as my old GRPs were so no issues there, but the rubbing concerns me.

Cheers,
Mick

Originally Posted by Bishop (Post 10796473)

If you extend the end point of a lever, that end point in theory needs to travel further in relation to whatever it's controlling to get the same effect, which I'm hoping relates to a longer active span/travel controlling the same thing, with more travel meaning more control, thus more progression.

Improved leverage is a bonus, but not necessarily what I'm after here, though a fair few people have said you can get more brakes with less flex of the chassis, but anyone with an original version chassis who says theirs does not flex while having enough brake to stop the car, without any mods, has likely never looked close enough at their car to notice just how much it does flex.

Originally Posted by TomB (Post 10800716)

.......... but no after market pads.... .

Originally Posted by TomB (Post 10800716)

yeah maybe. My personal opinion is it feels like it has more progression because the pads grab harder, but they do not grab earlier. for arguments sake, the stock lever has a maximum grab of say...5kg's of pressure. The longer lever has (again hypothetical, not tested) 10 kg's of pressure. It feels more "progressive" because with the longer lever you have an extra 5kg's of pressure being applied past the point of the stock lever, this is where the feeling of prgression is coming from.

The stock pads with a longer lever don't grab earlier, they can't because the material of the pads is still slipping just like it did with the shorter lever. ie anything under the (hypothetical) 5g's is the same "grab" so to say whether you use a short or long lever. Not sure if i explained my thoughts clearly:lol::blush:

I find it funny that there are so many silly hop ups for the 5, ie alloy shock ends and others bits, but no after market pads. frustrating. With softer pads, there is also inherently less flex as the pads would grab earlier, thus requiring less pressure from the servo which is what makes the chassis move.

Originally Posted by TomB (Post 10800716)

yeah maybe. My personal opinion is it feels like it has more progression because the pads grab harder, but they do not grab earlier. for arguments sake, the stock lever has a maximum grab of say...5kg's of pressure. The longer lever has (again hypothetical, not tested) 10 kg's of pressure. It feels more "progressive" because with the longer lever you have an extra 5kg's of pressure being applied past the point of the stock lever, this is where the feeling of prgression is coming from.

The stock pads with a longer lever don't grab earlier, they can't because the material of the pads is still slipping just like it did with the shorter lever. ie anything under the (hypothetical) 5g's is the same "grab" so to say whether you use a short or long lever. Not sure if i explained my thoughts clearly:lol::blush:

I find it funny that there are so many silly hop ups for the 5, ie alloy shock ends and others bits, but no after market pads. frustrating. With softer pads, there is also inherently less flex as the pads would grab earlier, thus requiring less pressure from the servo which is what makes the chassis move.