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Originally Posted by pegatinaman
(Post 9787758)
hola si alguien de habla hispana me puede ayudar se lo agradezco. He montado el centax completo que viene con el kit en mi 353 2010 y cuando monto el conjunto completo y de doy el apriete final al tornillo el conjunto se tranca. es decir, monto el cono y el volante, zapatas, masa, plato, muelle y tuerca de apriete, le pongo las arandelas necesarias para que no roce la campana le pongo los dos rodamientos internos y luego el conjunto exterior con el axial, la seta y el tornillo. Cuando aprieto queda una holgura considerable entre la cabeza del tornillo y la seta, incluso las arandelas las puedes mover con las manos pero la campana queda pegada literalmente a la masa, no se mueve libremente hacia delante o hacia atras... estuve viendo y repitiendo el montaje una y otra vez y nada. Si alguno sabe lo que puede estar pasando se lo agradezco... muchas gracias! Un saludo!
otra cosa que puede ser, fijate si parte T2705 esta apretado asi adentro de parte T2704, la primera ves que arme el centax no aprete esta parte bien adentro. |
oook voy a revisar esa pieza que creo que es la del problema...
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First race weekend: good news, car handled great! Bad news, I went through two sets of NT1 diff gears in the rear. :flaming: Has anyone figured out how to shim the NT1 gears?
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mtx5
just put grandsons together had lots of fun with servos you nead to be good to get it right or arse i do not now about plastic diffs old ones lasted 4 ever if it ant broke dont fix it also new clutch is abit funey will every one have 2 bye new pinion tool/ was a bit upset about using pliers 2 fix as old ones donot fit but car ran well in drive way i have had mugen sinse mtx2 but never put one to gether i have nrver seen so many pieces at 63 it was lots off fun greg
when will they option metal diff gears or dose some thing fit frends have tried xray |
Originally Posted by greg.dawn
(Post 9791571)
just put grandsons together had lots of fun with servos you nead to be good to get it right or arse i do not now about plastic diffs old ones lasted 4 ever if it ant broke dont fix it also new clutch is abit funey will every one have 2 bye new pinion tool/ was a bit upset about using pliers 2 fix as old ones donot fit but car ran well in drive way i have had mugen sinse mtx2 but never put one to gether i have nrver seen so many pieces at 63 it was lots off fun greg
when will they option metal diff gears or dose some thing fit frends have tried xray Congrats Greg, I'm so happy, just thinking of B and Grandpa building a schmick car together... It's not just about the racing! Ahhhhh I got it now.... You make a bet with him if he didnt come off for 20 minutes... Nice move B! G was happy as a HAM in SPAM that night, well deserved:) Super happy for you both. PS: Greg, wont ever forget my first meeting where you showed me the inner hex on the ball joint and made me realise these things are for real! |
Originally Posted by greg.dawn
(Post 9791571)
just put grandsons together had lots of fun with servos you nead to be good to get it right or arse i do not now about plastic diffs old ones lasted 4 ever if it ant broke dont fix it also new clutch is abit funey will every one have 2 bye new pinion tool/ was a bit upset about using pliers 2 fix as old ones donot fit but car ran well in drive way i have had mugen sinse mtx2 but never put one to gether i have nrver seen so many pieces at 63 it was lots off fun greg
when will they option metal diff gears or dose some thing fit frends have tried xray |
Originally Posted by Thunderbunny
(Post 9789977)
First race weekend: good news, car handled great! Bad news, I went through two sets of NT1 diff gears in the rear. :flaming: Has anyone figured out how to shim the NT1 gears?
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Originally Posted by Thunderbunny
(Post 9789977)
First race weekend: good news, car handled great! Bad news, I went through two sets of NT1 diff gears in the rear. :flaming: Has anyone figured out how to shim the NT1 gears?
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Originally Posted by Thunderbunny
(Post 9789977)
First race weekend: good news, car handled great! Bad news, I went through two sets of NT1 diff gears in the rear. :flaming: Has anyone figured out how to shim the NT1 gears?
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Originally Posted by Grinder
(Post 9793849)
Did you blow metal, or plastic NT1 gears?
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There is just too much force for these gears to hold ! They were all blowing with electric brushed motors(7t), they can't handle 4.5t brushless motors, so what makes you think they will last with 1.2+ horsepower .12 motors ! My Nikko gear diffs looked way tougher .......
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The gear diff cases , the screws, and the gears need to be made in thick balanced titanium 6al4v, for the system to last long ! It also needs balancing after every build, using the same bearings that will be installed in the car. It seems that the current internal gears get out of balance with all the experimental shimming going on here: at a certain speed the internals eat each other up !!!
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
(Post 9794947)
The gear diff cases , the screws, and the gears need to be made in thick balanced titanium 6al4v, for the system to last long ! It also needs balancing after every build, using the same bearings that will be installed in the car. It seems that the current internal gears get out of balance with all the experimental shimming going on here: at a certain speed the internals eat each other up !!!
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[QUOTE=pitlanehobby;9794038]I used KM diff gears and race this weekend without a problem.[/QUO
Any US distributor carrying this part? |
Diff balancing, as rotating mass is very important ! Symmetry around the diff axis changes with shimming and adding different weight oil. It gets really complicated when adding centrifugal forces to that mix, resulting most of the time in a blown diff, after all efforts have been exhausted . I say stick with a spool up front, and a solid ball diff in the rear ! Or if you must use a diff, try to learn from the Russians with their Awesomatix sealed, oil filled, and adjustable ball diff running 16 ceramic balls !
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