i think these things work similar to the old -2 (or +2 can't remember) caster steering blocks the mtx4 had and the NT1 has.

the backwards position would provide more exit steering with the rear end feeling like it comes around quicker on exit and the front would provide less exit but more entry. middle is...middle:lol:

i think that's how it works anyway.

gears stripping
 

hi just wondering did you guys find the problem wth the gears stripping. looking at new car, nt1,mtx5,or surpent 733 or 747. just didnt want to have issues with 2 speed straight up.

There was never an issue, look back a few pages for Roberts transmission setup guide/hints.

Lateral balance
 

Getting ready to order an MTX5 package and am just wondering. With fullsize/hi-voltage servos and a LiPo battery, how will it balance laterally?
Or does it balance better with low-profile servos and a NiMh battery?

If you want one call Mugen USA and ask when they will come in and order from a US shop or local shop in the USA.

and for the rear bulkheads they might be made from different material, because the original bend real easy.

Clutches are the main stay of the performance of the motor and car. Everybody drives different so clutch set ups will also be different, The best thing is test and then measure everything you put together so you can build it the same every time and then you will get constancy. Building it the same and then you will expect the same results in general when you check the clutch on the bench and that will help you make the next race without much problems.

i think you will find there was in issue,that is why he posted a setup for the transmission,because people were stripping gears left,right & centre:confused:

it seems to balance the most evenly with two full size servos and a lipo on the other side.

depending on what size reciever and if you use a regulator or not, you might have to add a few grams to the servo side.

i had mine balanced evenly with a full size throttle servo, low profile steering servo, cut down wires on both servos, micro spektrum reciever novak regulator and 15 grams on the servo side (on the designated RHS weight position) and a lipo pack with a 2660 nova pipe and 6 ring header on the left. (engine was a murnan rbm3).

For a lot of us, there was never an issue, if anything it was something that got a bit overblown, to the point people got put off buying the car for no good reason, it's a fantastic car.

Even now we have guys waiting on the T2002 kit, with the irony being I have seen the new kit, and I feel zero need to 'upgrade' to anything in it.

Steel diff gears aside, there is very little to recommend to anyone buying any MTX5 kit, apart from taking the usual amount of care setting it up.

mtx5
 

i do not know about no problems but how straight is your chassi now biship //and you are right it is a really good car///greg

Straight enough not to worry about, any variation there is as likely chassis wear from the back end from touching down towards the end of a final.

http://thisisrc.com/wp-content/uploa...rt-pinitch.jpg
READ HERE

mtx5
 

car is good now and with new setup //we will try again back to small brace again and see what happens now to flex and traction with it before i change chassis to new one we have in box for easter//// car ran a bit better with a bit longer 1//gear engine did not seam to struggle as much i worry to much about over revving and braking //rod they are the 08 small ones and neads replacing after this weekends sunny coast is spare for easter

when you start thinking "i'll need yo change the rod soon" that's when you change the rod.

first moment that thought comes into your mind, just change it.

theres no issue, it was misalingment from the users where as in any car if you gearmesh
wrong youll strip spurs

and beware fellow racers, if you change gearing recheck the mesh, if you change spurs
recheck mesh, and as piestch mentioned, had to use a 0.5mm thick shim behind the flywheel cone in order to obtain perfect alignment

believe it or not, neve stripped with the mtx4 nor the 5,

final tip, i space the 2 speed shoes even when new til it touches the bell, from then backed up 1/8 of a turn and thats is, every once in a while i readjust that space to compensate the wear on the 2 speed shoes

hope it helps