i am onley a carpenter but if i built a house that moved that mutch i would be deregersted the chassie on baileys car has got that bad that when you rev the engen it bends /and when you brake just as bad even puting ruber band on carbi causes stress and it has nothing 2 do with endpoint adj at least it looks a lot beter with brace i will replace plate when they come up with a beter way to fix the problem that every one els says dose not happen at least i can keep plate straight with the brace
greg

I think if you built a house out of plastic you may have some problems to, particularly when you put nitro in the water pipes.

The chassis may be flexing but is it causing any problems, apart from some people don't like the look of it?

CSO make a 4mm chassis, that should stiffen it up if that is what people are after.

I believe Arena have a 3.3mm 7075 chassis, but this will also increase the center of gravity and change roll centers won't it?

What type of alloy has Mugen used for the standard T2401 chassis?

Undies

+1

i know you all say it is ment to flex but it will brake right off soner or later am i suppost 2 replace it every 2/3 races

Carpenter or metallurgist? Lol....

I would be extremely surprised if the chassis broken because of the flexing. In the case that you are so concerned with it make contact with mugen and ask them.

Has anyone heard of anyone making brass engine mounts for the 5 yet?

I think at some point I'll have to figure out how to add around 75g to my car, and if it don't mess with the F/R weight balance too much engine mounts seem a good place to add a bit, thinking of dropping into a machine shop during the week to ask a friend how much to make a few up for me...

Couple of things you can try. Perhaps add another side weight, or behind the tank there are two spare holes in the chassis (if it's not broken). The MRX5 weights fit there nicely. I've had some similar brass weights made for this location.

Max Mugen weights for the stock mount holes are 20g each, so 40g total, and I'd likely need more, sure you can bolt more weight there, or with brass engine mounts I figure you add it there and then possibly need less or able to balance left to right more easily with the stock weight mount points.

It's just one of those things, being that brass mounts could save a lot of other rooting around with smaller weights at various points.

Mate,
it might pay to calulate the weight of brass engine mounts too
as you might need to add more material too to get the weight up.
if you weigh the AL ones you could do a quick comparison between the SG of AL and the SG of Brass.

SG of brass ~8500 / SG of Al ~2700 = ~ 3.2

so 1 Gr of Al = to ~3.2 Gr of brass for the same size.

add the weight in front of the engine, with the option weights, or add it to the battery side if you have a lipo, it's probably light on the battery side anyway.

you could also buy an extra 20 gram weight and stick it under the tank...

why do you need to add 75 grams? mine was fine with small tires. i added 20 grams on the battery side just in case i came under. from memory mine was just 10 grams over.

there doesn't seem to be many option parts of any value out there for the 5 at the moment...which is strange considering when the 4 came out a raft of bits from after market companies were available almost from the onset.

Greg, no need to freak out man. Set the mesh free without play on the small gear and make sure the 2 speed is not shifting late, also make sure the grub screws on the shoes are set so there is no gap or just .1mm of a gap...you should be fine.

If you are stripping gears like crazy it could also be your clutch setup or the cap that the long screw goes through. either the cap has the hole drilled out not centre or your clutch is set wrong. A dude was at the Nationals and he had stripping issues, it turned out it was the clutch, it was set wrong i think from memory he had heaps of endplay and the large pinion was hitting the large spur gear!

Sounds like a good weight gain then to me, I'm not sure you could add as much to the rear engine mount, due to how close the pulley sits, though I'm sure you could add a fair bit to the front, but at that comparison SG you listed, I have a sneaky suspicion just copying the alloy in brass would be enough to get me close to my own goals.

Mine has been gone from light, to still light, and then lighter, without me really ever looking to even try to be all that lightweight.

Problems could have been choice of equipment, or not, but heavier servos briefly but with a 700mah LiFe that weighed nothing, then to Savox LP's (cause I love em), and up to a 1400mah LiFe, but still light, and now little changes which I forgot will shave weight, cause I'm fitting Micro DSM2 receivers in my cars, and even the fact that I just use the RC4's that I think weigh half what the old personals did.

Every time I have checked my approximate weight, I always seem to be around 1650 grams, or less, at one point I checked my weight using a full shell that had not been cut out yet, with 4 tyres that had half tread left, I could not think of anything I'd left off the scale, yet I was in the 1640 or so range.

So when I say I need 75g, in reality I may need more like 90g depending on my final config, and brass mounts just seem like a stress free way of making weight without a lot of messing around, or worrying something is going to fall off during a heat.


But then, I could just be playing mind games in the long lead up to the Qld's this year...

end of feb, therell be brass engine mounts for the mtx5 by YBSLOW, im not sure if once pieCE engine mount or two piece but i asked him and he confirmed about it.
perhpas the fact that the x5 is box stock right on the weight limit is the reason to not have many optionals if compared to the x4 and other brands where weight is on the hig side

Photos of Pietsch's car yesterday at the pre-worlds.

Hmmmm, interesting stuff on his bench

Don't get too excited if your just looking at the alloy posts for the main shaft, he had a few of those prototypes with various markings on them at the EC last year, no one ever found out why for sure.

In the first picture, it looks like he has change nothing since the EC.


I'd love to know how he managed to shoehorn the receiver into the small RX box, although I know I could do the same with my Spektrum micro, but I'd not like the tighter fit result in the wiring, and I'm not sure I could put the transponder in the RX bx then either.

It's interesting that I'm preping my car for the first club meet of the year (though that could be a while if it keeps raining like it has), two things I have done that is still on Robs car, one is replace the inner rear top links with steering ones (cause the short ones don't give enough reach with a long link setup), and last night I was grinding a hole in the top deck, cause where Rob ran his battery wire is seriously the best place for it.