pro shop futaba in japan sells them

Any other online shop that is English? :sweat:

you can also get them from www.rcmarket.co.hk i think that is the website. just google rc market and the website should come up. there are three colours blue red and gun metal grey.

If you really want to get down to the ROAR requirement all you need to do is change to either a lipo or AAA receiver pack. My car with full size electronics is is only 3 grams over with no other weight saving mods & 54/55mm foams. Remember your required to make weight with a dry tank AFTER the run so your weight with race ready foams needs to be higher.

Mark

It's http://rcmarket.com.hk and I found it.
Thank you very much!

just remember to re check your engine temp and tune with the new heatsink, as it may affect the tune slightly either make it run a bit cooler or hotter, depends on the place you race at. also there is less amterial so it may run a bit hotter, who knows, just double check though.

just remember to re check your engine temp and tune with the new heatsink, as it may affect the tune slightly either make it run a bit cooler or hotter, depends on the place you race at. also there is less amterial so it may run a bit hotter, who knows, just double check though.

I have trouble balancing my rear stablizer. When I lift the left arm, the right arm moves instantly but when I lift the right arm, the left arm doesn't move at all. I detached the suspension and droop is set the same.

Any one knows how can I fix this problem? I tried varing the lenght of the stablizer rods (the ones that connects the arm to the stablizer bar).

:cry::cry::cry:

Hi bboy,

First thing to check.
Take your shocks off again, and take your stabilizer link rods off too.

Now check that there is no binding in your A arm movememnt. Make sure both drop under their own wieght and that both are the same.
Now re-check/ adjust your droop screws.

Check your stabilizer moves nice and smooth while not connected. If ok. Re-attach to one A arm and check the movement by moveing the arm up and down. Check the length of the stabilizer connecting rod.

Now check how your other A arm lines up with the stabilizer bar fitting and adjust as necessery to get the same droop both sides.
Fit the bar to the other A arm and remove it from the other side. Is the movement still as smooth? The same?

Carry on from there checking the droop with suspension off but with stabilizer on and adjust rods to equalize.

Ensure your shocks are long enough and are the same length before attaching. Make sure the connections on the shocks. At top and bottom on the A arm's are not too stiff and binding the A arm movememnt.

You should find your problem working through it like this.

Regards,
British Menace

Who got the best deal on line( NT1 parts)?Thanks

nexusracing.net are the cheapest by far and have evrything in stock
and great customer service

simple get some camber link turnbuckles and use these instead of the very difficult to adjust and inacurate threaded shafts. this way you can give the tunrbuckle a small twist with the wrench and get them lifting up exactly the same time.

it is not lifting at the same time due to one side having a longer turnbuckle than the other.

Also check to make sure that the set screws for the anti-roll bar are snug, but not too tight. Disconnect the rod ends and tighten each set screw individually until they are snug, but allowing the bar to move up and down freely. Make sure to check the set screws frequently, as they back out quite often. When I first put on a bar, I use a dab of CA blue on the set screw to keep it from backing out after I tighten it down correctly.

I'll check is out ...Thanks

Sorry Active no stock !
i'll check again !