1. I think you should buy xray collet for novarossi, and use it. Or buy Team Magic G4S collet ( bronze color ). As I said, the problem is : kyosho collet not perfectly match to xray flywheel.

Another alternative is adding 0.3mm shim to the crankshaft tip to create artificial length, so you get 9.2mm ( 8.9mm + 0.3mm ).
Super glue the 0.3mm shim to the crankshaft tip. Get the shim from Tamiya.

3. I have no idea with Q3. I think you have to build the clutchbell as per instruction. My friend use OS TZ5 in his NT1, and he is doing okay. I think he use G4S collet for his OS TZ. I also use G4S collet in my novarossi NSR for my NT1.

about the 0.3mm shim, where to put.

Score another win for my NT1! There isn't enough cars running foam tires to make a class, so i ran RP30 rubber tires. Kind of a loose track, so i ran softer tamiya maroon springs in the front, and tamiya white springs in the rear. I ran 6000wt oil in the rear diff. Has anyone ever experimented with only running 2 gears in the rear diff instead of the 4 to loosen up the action? Or do you think it its not enough to handle the engine's power?

New for this weekend's racing, i ran 3 Racing's solid aluminum axle that uses the out drives from the front diff, so the durability is there. I coated the out drives and the pins that hold the out drives with grease internally so any kind of wear on the aluminum axle is minimum. I decided to go this way instead of the multi diff because i dont think i would ever use a one-way in the front. Here's the 3 Racing aluminum solid axle. $16.50
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...gSolidAxle.jpg

Here's my rig with a Max Power .12 SL3 (i always forget how fast that engine is!) i reviewed in the RCCA November 2007 issue.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1.../XRAYNT102.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...r_redesign.jpg

I have been using this spool for a few months now and I would recommend drilling out the holes on the spool and outdrives to a lager size and putting fatter pins. This should make last even longer without developing play.

help needed
 

hi guys

I going over to San Diego and LA in June and was wondering where I could see and meet NT1 drivers practicing or racing at any local tracks and also local Hobby shops location which carries NT1 spares.

Appreciate the help. :D

kamakazie hobbies stocks a decent amount of parts... and crystal park is a decent place to go.. its a LARGE track.. 1/8th scale track

got it!..thanks bro! will check it out..:D

I fixed it finally! I got a collar of 5mm and eventhough the clutch gap is smaller, I guess I will try for now.

As for #3, apparently I didn't assemble to spur gear correctly. I didn't push the metal parts into the spur altogether ... my bad.

Thanks so much for your help. Now I cannot wait to run in my engine and take it for a ride.

:blush::blush::blush:

Does anyone know what and when to use a lightweight flywheel vs the one that came with the kit?

Also how do you decide on the size of the pipe, 5mm vs 6mm? Other than 6mm is louder, when should you use which?

:batman::batman:

The lightweight flywheel has less rotational mass than the stock, which will help the engine get up to speed faster. You won't notice a drastic difference, but with combination of lighting up the clutch and the cars 2 speed and middle shafts you'll notice slight improvement. You'll notice a difference only when your on a high traction surface, and driving the car to it's full ability. 6mm stinger on the pipe is illegal, and the 5mm is legal for racing. Again it doesn't make sense to get the options unless you can make consistent lap times on the track;)

Clutch issues
 

Hi guys, has anyone had issues with there clutch getting boggy in long finals?
I had my clutch set per the book with the exception of a yellow shoe and it would be fine in qualifiers but the car starts losing bottom end in finals.

I have switched to the kyosho 2d clutch to test in the nt1.

well thats kinda strange. how far into your run does it go flat? you might need to richen the bottem end a bit.. as the engine heats up and heat soaks the chassis the engine tune changes. You may not know that.. or you may, try a different clutch spring.. the stock spring is a bit on the soft side.. I have been running everything but the stock spring..

yeh i dont think its the engine tune.. i also found that the same engine was heaps more powerful in my rrr using the same gearing / tire size etc

Sounds like either the motor was too lean, or you were running the stock clutch spring with maybe a little too much tension. I would highly recommend the new XRAY Hard clutch spring with the spring nut set to 0.8mm (torque motor) or 1.2mm (rpm motor) down from the flywheel nut end. Flawless and long lasting. :nod:

Ill compare with the kyosho clutch.. i would prefer the kyosho clutch as it sonly half the nt1 clutch price