are the new steering knuckles out yet..if so, where can we order?

what is up with the Aluminum Adjusting Nuts# 337252? i cant seem to thread these things in straight for my life!! and im afraid to thread them all the way in crooked because it might split the Composite Upright...i have seen that others are having problems with the Aluminum Adjusting Nuts and the Pivot balls as well...any suggestions as to how to get these to go in straight? im not gonna even mess with the blue threadlock until i can get this right!!

I found that wraping some masking tape on the allen driver that you are using to tighten the nut, just enough back (3-4mm) that allows it to hold the nut properly helps. This also helps you to put some downforce when tightening them, which helps it to catch.

Once you catch about 2 threads, you can then put a few drops of locktite and finish tightening it in.

Hope this helps.

You don't apply locktite to the plastic, locktite is to be used only on metal to metal only, locktite contains chemical that will soften plastic materials.

Sorry, I meant threadlock. (Locktite is a brand) This is actaully recommended by Xary in their user manual. Good qaulity plastic I suppose. :smile:

http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic....g+pivots+balls (scroll down)

what I've done in the past is let the thread lock(or CA) dry on the aluminum before putting it in the upright. If you turn the aluminum insert/nut counter-clockwise, it will drop down just as the threads pass each other. Then turn the nut into the upright. I start them by hand and I hadn't had any problems.

They are the same, baby :D

edit : yes, we know locktite is a brand of thread locker.

Use a drip of CA on the outside thread ( like rcfoolz said )

I use CA when I need to reinforce / make threads that may become stripped on a bulkhead. I personally dont find it nescessary on the uprights. I like the nuts firm but not too tight.

your not using the CA to clue them in, just to tighten up the treads when you put them in so they don't back out. It is dry and does not bond with the plastic.

I did'nt think that was the aim, but thought that the CA would make the nuts too tight. I suppose not then.

Anyone have a tip for the screws that hold the front pulley to the front axle? Just had another incident where they came loose causing the pulley to come loose and allowing the belt to scape against the ackerman assembly post. That killed the belt and ended the day (no parts at the trackside shop).

This is the second time I've used locktite to keep the screws in.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Rob

I find the easiest way is with no tools to start the threading. Place the aluminum nut on your index finger (like you were getting finger printed by the police). Hold the hub so you are pushing the nut with your index finger into the hub. I find this was the easiest way to apply even presure to the nut which is key. After you get it threaded a little and it looks like it's on even, put a little thread lock (blue) on a few threads that are remain exposed before you tighten it down.

{ -- } (hub)
--- (nut)
l l (index finger)

OR buy T shape wrencing tool like in photo.

It will hold the hex while you are pushing and turning the hex into the threads.

It repels dracula too :smile:

Don't feel alone. I had this happen to me once, and to fix this little issue, this is where some time will help. Like with the upright screws, take those little buggers and put some lock-tite one them and let them dry....then very carefully, put a dab of CA on the top edge of the screw head, but make sure that you don't close over the screw hole.. Make sure not to strip them out when you put them in. I had this happen to me and it ripped the bearing seal off when they backed out. Make sure to check that they don't back out for the first few times that you take the car out after doing it.

This is not the recomended way of doing it in the book, but it worked for me when I had them back out.

If you are using the spool/multi-diff, you can use a dab of lock-tite on the aluminum threads on the multi-diff before putting the screw in and then let it dry. this will hold the screw from backing out.

Anybody else have a problem with the pillowballs backing out of the arms? I ran mt NT1 all last year and didn't have 1 issue. Now this crops up, and I was told by a respected racer that this problem is well known.. Any other "age" related issues? I DO believe in regular maintanence, but don't replace my arms as part of my schedule. fyi