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hello,
its a KM racing rotor http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/cata...9affc90ac67bcc also check the capricorn one, i've been usin it for a while and its holding up like a champ :nod: http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...roducts_id=113 the price gap is huge between the 2 but i think you get what you pay for. KM Rotor= 6 dollars Capricorn Rotor = 60 dollars cheers Ali |
Congratulations to Thomas Günsel winning the german championship with NT1 and Orcan/Novarossi!!!
First 5 cars all XRAY NT1 The car was great last weekend at the Türkheim track. The only car that had no problems with traktion roll on this high bite track. 1. Thomas Günsel NT1 Orcan LR3 2. Simon Balk NT1 Orcan LR3 3. Michael Heinrich NT1 Orcan LR3 4. Dirk Wischnewski NT1 Orcan LR3 5. Erik Dankel NT1 Orcan LR3 |
Hello from France,
RB T9RC powered NT1 are again French National Champion in A class and also in B Class !!!! Last round see the domination of the NT1 with a full XRay podium... Au revoir. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO
(Post 6339765)
hello,
its a KM racing rotor http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/cata...9affc90ac67bcc also check the capricorn one, i've been usin it for a while and its holding up like a champ :nod: http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...roducts_id=113 the price gap is huge between the 2 but i think you get what you pay for. KM Rotor= 6 dollars Capricorn Rotor = 60 dollars cheers Ali |
Originally Posted by romuald31
(Post 6341704)
Hello from France,
RB T9RC powered NT1 are again French National Champion in A class and also in B Class !!!! Last round see the domination of the NT1 with a full XRay podium... Au revoir. my 2 friends used , i'm test had rich punch ! |
I just bought the 09 kit and was going to use the alluminium shocks but i remember a few people complained about how they are either leaky or too tight.
How did you guys fix this problem and how do you bleed them properly? Thanks |
Originally Posted by freestyles
(Post 6349605)
I just bought the 09 kit and was going to use the alluminium shocks but i remember a few people complained about how they are either leaky or too tight.
How did you guys fix this problem and how do you bleed them properly? Thanks I'm a little old school here, so I have an alternative for you. I've been using the same process here in the XRAY T1FK'05 FAQ section for several years now. Here are a few things to do a little differently than what is written, since the shock assemblies are slightly different now: * On step 11 when you first start threading the top cap on and the excess oil starts pumping out the sides, slowly tighten the top cap down. This allows most of the excess oil to bleed out and lessens the time needed for bleeding from the bottom. * On step 11, disregard the statement about not tightening the top cap too much. The newer shock parts and bladders work perfectly with the top cap tightened down firmly. This also ensures that the top cap does not unscrew when you are adjusting the aluminum spring collars. * On step 12, after you turn the shock upside down and let it sit for the moment (to allow any air bubbles to rise up), and unscrew/lift up the bottom cap, only let the air bleed out for 10 seconds and then quickly screw the bottom cap back on. You should end up with about 100% rebound after the first time of bleeding. If you want less rebound, unscrew/lift up the bottom cap again for another 10 seconds. Keep doing this until the rebound is right. It doesn't take any time at all if you let enough excess oil bleed out while slowly tightening the top cap. Note: I do not pump the piston at all while bleeding from the bottom cap. I just unscrew the cap and let the oil bleed out for 10 seconds at a time. also read this m8 http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic....ghlight=#60654 |
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EURO Champion Edition
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2009 NT1 EC
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New LW brake disk
#334111
Is it a new option disk ? It's included in the 09 EC Edition. |
Taking Pre-Orders on NT1 EC
We are currently taking Pre-Orders on the New NT1 EC Limited Edition. The new part number is XRA330002
To find our site go to google and type TQ Hobbies Please feel free to email us @ [email protected] |
Diff oil maintainence
Guys how can you tell you need to replace your diff oil with a fresh batch with having to open the diff and damaging your O ring?
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Originally Posted by jelayne
(Post 6360146)
Guys how can you tell you need to replace your diff oil with a fresh batch with having to open the diff and damaging your O ring?
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Originally Posted by asw7576
(Post 6360901)
You replace the oil after 4 races or when the diff resistance become easy to rotate. You need new O ring everytime you put back the casing.
throw away that shitty o ring, and use gasket sealant, it pulls apart, can be cleaned of and seal better than that o ring design. |
Originally Posted by TomB
(Post 6361142)
come on dude, how did you come up with the figure "change every 4 races" that's just a number you pulled out of the air:o
throw away that shitty o ring, and use gasket sealant, it pulls apart, can be cleaned of and seal better than that o ring design. And gasket sealant might spill over inside the diff casing if people do messy job..... I rather keep it original as per designed by xray. |
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