blue thread lock or shoe goo seems to keep them locked in..

Is it true blue thread-lock breaks down plastic parts? Shoogoo seems more friendly. What about some of the RTV auto adhesives? TIA!

Although I haven't seen it my self....... thread locker chemicals eat plastic said some people. One time a race director saw me putting thread locker liquid to wheel axle's threads, and he warned me NOT putting it too much. He said some people lost wheel rim after that. So I wipe it, and use only a little.

I put the screws in while the locktite was wet. I'll try the dry method next. Screws on the diff thread . . . good idea!

Anyone try larger screws? Xray wants $6.00 for 4 screws! Come on. That's really gouging it there Xray. I'm sure Mr. Hudy is more clever than that. I love the car and don't mind paying a bit extra for the parts but 4 screws/$6 . . . is it really hard to make a larger size or much cheaper screws?

Before viewing this pic. Know that I have the X-ray NT1 and love the car. The hudy steel used in the drive train has held very well. I'm not sure if this was a fluke or what. The tool was not worth the $20 I paid for it. I love the 4 metric hex profitools that I got very nice.

-Story-

I had a tight fitting OS Glowplug on a OS TZ 12. As you can see it broke my first glowplug wrench. So I figure I'd throw some Hudy steel at it. What you see in the picture was this tools first attempt at removing a glow plug. I don't think i'm that strong.

Case in point I'd recommend a good 1/4 ratch from Kobalt over this Hudy tool. I got a whole set for $25.... 5 bucks more. Just be careful to not crank the glowplugs down to much, just a few more hours of rotation after you feel a little resistance.

Whats the opinion on the 1* steering blocks? Did they make an obvious difference? Thanks for the F.B.

I posted this on the Xray website forum section on April 28th:

I ran the new blocks at the Kissimmee raceway Open sedan Championships this past weekend. I used a front diff and did notice faster cornering speed and much better on-power steering as to the older blocks. I did have to make a few changes to the setup of the car by making a roll-center change. I was running 450wt shock oil in the front with the lavender springs and ended up going to 600wt and the pink springs......I gained "STEERING" overall.....

To balance these findings out, after making the changes to the car I tested a body that I had used during the Winternats that was mounted in the center position, every time I used the body, it pushed. I switched the front blocks back and with the Winternats body...a push...back to the 1deg blocks....all kinds of steering. I tried to run a body that was 1mm forward and had too much steering causing the rear of the car to be a little loose, but very drivable.....

Overall, I noticed more on-power steering and mid corner steering with the blocks. that was with, stiffening the front suspension and change the roll center to get noticable gains....

My overall thoughts on this

That does suck. I've had my Hudy plug wrench for years and the performance has been flawless. I've never seen that with a Hudy tool but no one can deny you got a bad tool there.

If that tool is Hudy, you deserve a replacement.

Are the new blocks coming out soon?

They've actually been out for a while now;)

on power steering understeer question..
 

Hi guys
I have an issue with my nt1 understeering mid corner-corner exit whilst on power.

i am using stock setup including the fornt diff on a high traction track. ive tried 40s and 42s al round still the same.

any advice on what to try?

thanks!
John

if your running the stock front springs ditch those and try the 30 lb front nt1 springs.. or dark blue..

are they harder or softer than stock?

im using the purple on the back as well still the same thing

john, get the +1 degree front blocks. the stock front springs are 33 pound. 28 puond rears i believe.

also try narrowing the front track width.

body makes a huge difference also. i'm a big fan of the active potenza spr, it has a ton of exit steering!

final note john, what i noticed with the xray is the front shocks don't allow enough lift if you screw the ballends in too far on the piston. place a longer ball end or screw out the bottom ballend a bit.

this will give you more front lift, therefore more weight transfer tot he rear which means increased exit steering.;)

Before you start working on chassis setup, try a different tire combination. Use 40s front and 42s rear (maybe even 45s rears since the traction is high). Tires should always be the first step. ;)