Thanks for your suggestions D-nicest.

Sometimes I just loose my patience especially when I see some of the guys are running their car so so well.... :p

My rear tires wear evenly actually which makes me think my rear camber is good. However my front wears more in the inside I just checked so I will try less camber up front.

Will try more rear droop first next time. THANKS

mate if your rear end slides out on entry off throttle more rear droop (ie lift) will make it worse.

reduce the rear droop so the car does not lift as much (ie go to a more + number on your hudy blocks), and increase the front dropp so the front lifts more on corner exit. (ie go to a more - number on your hudy blocks on the front)

If your rear tires are wearing evenly, then you probably need to increase the rear negative camber and/or toe-in. The rear tires should definitely cone to the inside at least with a sustained 0.5mm difference between the inside and outside diameters.

Post your full setup online here, so we can take a look. Its hard to give correct advice without the full picture.

Droop is probably not the answer though. ;)

Sorry about the misprint, I meant more droop as a higher or increased number on the blocks.;)

Thanks for your help. I uploaded my setup here.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=639&setup=nt1

I'd try to increase the caster, that should remove some off throttle steering. Move the two thinner shims in front of the arm.

GK's suggestion is a good one. Here are the options I'd recommend trying (one at a time and in order):

* Change rear downstop to 5, for less weight trasfer to the front on entry
* Increase rear toe-in to 3.0d, to stabilize the rear more
* Increase rear camber to 3.5d, to give more side bite to the rear
* Increase caster where you have 1.5 shims on each side of upper front arms, to decrease entry steering and increase exit steering
* With the one-way, I'd recommend reducing the ackerman by flipping around the A/D block so the inner links are all the way forward. The setting you have now is better for a spool.
* Move inner rear camber link position down to #2 and increase outer camber link shim to 2mm, to increase camber gain and give more side bite to the rear

And always use fresh tires. Fresh tires really make the difference.

AND NEVER EVER CUT REAR TIRES TO BE USE AS FRONT TIRES.

Bboy : ( perhaps this is my personal setup, you don't have to follow )

Recently I've been using softer tires for front and harder tires for rear with 2.5 mm split. I use Kawahara 37 front and 40 rear. Why harder rear tires ?

1st. This help reduce excessive rear tire wear in my car. After 1 hour practice, front tires and rear tires end up almost the same diameter. Sometimes rear tires still get 1mm bigger in diameter than front tires. ( fyi : driving with smaller rear tires than front is really lousy to drive ).

2nd. I need more steering + higher cornering speed. Softer tires at front in theory will create more front bite, thus creating more steering and possibly higher cornering speed too.

3rd. I'm still using front gear diff. I don't use one way. Using front & rear gear diff setup require 1:1 overdrive ratio, otherwise you are either dragging front or rear tires. Harder rear tires help me to maintain close to 1:1 overdrive ratio during long final because front and rear tires are wearing at the same rate.

Cool guys. Let me try them this weekend.

Can't wait for the weekend......

Can someone please tell me what the difference would be with the nt1 stock shock oil and the kyosho weight oils? like the kyosho 450 and 500 ?

thanks

Does anyone us the 26t and 19t side pullies together? I found that the side belt is tighter, but is there a difference in the handling of the car by combining the 2?

You'll end up with 5.5% front overdrive, which should provide a slight increase in on-power steering over the 25/18 combination. The front tires will also wear more.

5.4% :lol:
(9.6% for 25/19 side pullies)

I was rounding up to the nearest half percent. :D

Its actually 5.42% :p