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mark, check your messages
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I dont know if this was posted earlier in the thread,but what spring is everyone using on the clutch?..It seems alot of people dont think highly of the factory one...
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Originally Posted by diesel
(Post 3766668)
Hi there, has anyone tried the atomic front universals? Any comments?
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What springs seem to be the ticket for tight tracks? Their color coding seems kinda difficult between the purple, light purple and violet. Also what weight are the silvers supposed to be?
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Originally Posted by Al Sodano
(Post 3768005)
I dont know if this was posted earlier in the thread,but what spring is everyone using on the clutch?..It seems alot of people dont think highly of the factory one...
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Originally Posted by kaotickc
(Post 3768253)
What springs seem to be the ticket for tight tracks? Their color coding seems kinda difficult between the purple, light purple and violet. Also what weight are the silvers supposed to be?
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Originally Posted by kaotickc
(Post 3768253)
What springs seem to be the ticket for tight tracks? Their color coding seems kinda difficult between the purple, light purple and violet. Also what weight are the silvers supposed to be?
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want to buy, who is sell cheap?
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What on/off switch did you guys get to fit in the RX box opening? I have one, but its about 2 mm too long. :rolleyes:
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Originally Posted by kaotickc
(Post 3784672)
What on/off switch did you guys get to fit in the RX box opening? I have one, but its about 2 mm too long. :rolleyes:
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Originally Posted by kaotickc
(Post 3784672)
What on/off switch did you guys get to fit in the RX box opening? I have one, but its about 2 mm too long. :rolleyes:
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WOW, you guys use on/off switches? Lets all hope it doesn't go bad.:eek: If you do insist on using one make sure it's facing either sideways meaning you switch it on or off pointing to the sides of the car (left/right) or that the "on" position is facing forward. I've seen harder impacts actually push the switch forward from momentum of the hit and turn the car off. But guess what, the engine is still running. So you hope and pray you put your rubber band or spring on the throttle to go to idle to prevent a runaway. Have you guys ever noticed why 1/8th scale drivers NEVER use switches? Direct connection is the safest bet ever. One less thing to fail. You can get a "professional" looking direct connect set up made by TM (Team Magic) that is for the G4S. It is very nice and convienient the way they layed it out, you can find it at www.racedayhobbies.com. It's part number 114044, and it's under the "batteries" section of Sams site. But I would trully NEVER recommend a switch in a PRO car. Keep it for the "toy" cars. It might just save your car. Something to think about guys.;) See you all at the track someday!!:)
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Originally Posted by Serpentd
(Post 3785923)
But I would trully NEVER recommend a switch in a PRO car. Keep it for the "toy" cars.
Four cars, switches in each and I've never had a problem. I usually face mine up or sideways. The NT1's built in switch mount faces the switch up and is housed inside the enclosed receiver box. I like the convenience of having a switch, because it makes my life easier and I don't have to fuss with the connectors or worry about messing up the wires - but it's more likely because I'm an amateur and I think my cars are toys. :sneaky: |
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
(Post 3785950)
:weird:
Four cars, switches in each and I've never had a problem. I usually face mine up or sideways. The NT1's built in switch mount faces the switch up and is housed inside the enclosed receiver box. I like the convenience of having a switch, because it makes my life easier and I don't have to fuss with the connectors or worry about messing up the wires - but it's more likely because I'm an amateur and I think my cars are toys. :sneaky: |
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