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-   -   Xray NT1 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-road/141149-xray-nt1.html)

RC MARKET 12-16-2008 12:12 AM


Originally Posted by rx7ttlm (Post 5172048)
la la la engine cleaning time, So remember kids. Even if MF himself plays with your engine, TAKE IT APART AND CLEAN IT! lol. Found a buncha crap in my new engine tonight. Al chips, a piece of sand in the carb, brass shavings in the HSN body. Super bad engine tho.


getting ready for winternats


http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...9dbc83119d.jpg

how many L oil to rebuild your engine ?

rx7ttlm 12-16-2008 12:40 AM


Originally Posted by asw7576 (Post 5172059)
How is front bearing's seal ?

seals good, why?

rx7ttlm 12-16-2008 12:41 AM


Originally Posted by FF25510 (Post 5172084)
sure!! i found my MF with a "click" in front bearing:weird:the engine was brand new. :cry::cry: also 3 piece of al chips was found inside my OS tz5:sweat:. so YOU MUST CLEAN IT....:mad:


I never run an engine without checking it myself...

rx7ttlm 12-16-2008 12:44 AM


Originally Posted by RC MARKET (Post 5172143)
how many L oil to rebuild your engine ?

how many what? How many Liters? Haven't had to rebuild one yet (piston / sleeve that is) . I usually replace O rings every gallon or so. Thats it. I tear down the engines after I run them, Clean them and inspect parts.. Just got my XXL3 last night so I will let you guys know..

rx7ttlm 12-16-2008 01:07 AM

next step is modifying carb venturi :)

asw7576 12-16-2008 01:12 AM


Originally Posted by rx7ttlm (Post 5172187)
seals good, why?

I'm just reminding you while you have dismantle the engine that much, then why not to check or replace it.

FF25510 12-16-2008 01:14 AM


Originally Posted by rx7ttlm (Post 5172191)
I never run an engine without checking it myself...

me too, because engine cost too much. ;)

asw7576 12-16-2008 01:32 AM


Originally Posted by rx7ttlm (Post 5172243)
next step is modifying carb venturi :)

R u going to enlarge the hole ?

Back to 1993, I have two Kyosho GP10 kit. The kit comes with GSX-11 kyosho engine with barrel type carburator. I drilled the carburator air intake. The carburator barrel is made from soft metal, so I can press drill quite easy. I also enlarge the hole in carburator intake opening. So all together, the air intake holes are noticeably bigger than standard kit engine.

I fired up the engine, and TADA !!! I notice significant improvement in acceleration and top speed. The idling noise and acceleration are louder.

rx7ttlm 12-16-2008 01:33 AM


Originally Posted by asw7576 (Post 5172254)
I'm just reminding you while you have dismantle the engine that much, then why not to check or replace it.

probably because that's a brand new engine.............

rx7ttlm 12-16-2008 01:35 AM


Originally Posted by asw7576 (Post 5172295)
R u going to enlarge the hole ?

Back to 1993, I have two Kyosho GP10 kit. The kit comes with GSX-11 kyosho engine with barrel type carburator. I drilled the carburator hole. The carburator barrel is made from soft metal, so I can press drill quite easy. I also enlarge the hole in carburator intake opening. So all together, the air intake holes are noticeably bigger than standard kit engine.

I fired up the engine, and TADA !!! I notice significant improvement in acceleration and top speed. The idling noise and acceleration are louder.

not going to make the hole bigger, will still be 5.4mm. We have found that when you make the venturi larger, you lose flow velocity.... ie lose bottom end and a bit of torque. if you notice, the novarossi based carbs have a step where the 5.4 is printed. that is getting radiused. or maybe replaced with OS 5.4 they already have it all setup.

AddictedToRacin 12-16-2008 11:27 AM


Originally Posted by rx7ttlm (Post 5172191)
I never run an engine without checking it myself...

I'm only once, as Adrien Bertin assembled it for me :sneaky:
But even at my other engines I didn't have any problems with that.
I'm looking forward to hear how your engine runs. Max-engines were always good.

rx7ttlm 12-16-2008 06:33 PM


Originally Posted by AddictedToRacin (Post 5173854)
I'm only once, as Adrien Bertin assembled it for me :sneaky:
But even at my other engines I didn't have any problems with that.
I'm looking forward to hear how your engine runs. Max-engines were always good.

well I have run the XL3's and they kick ass.. I have an XXL3 that I got yesterday and I am going to get that ready aswell.. should be good.. I have arranged to have it dyno'd as well :weird:

GEO 12-17-2008 02:58 AM

My first test with NT1 was very good. The car on the track was very stable with almost stock setup. My car was pretty smooth at the corners in low or high speeds. I intend to try the Ankerman A-D to get more steering and both the exit of turn and at the entrance. I also want to try and yellow clutch shoe except the white. I think that the white clutch shoe made my car more smooth. In my first race, the track hadn't enough grip. Then my car was bad. I tried to use 35f and 37r foam tires and it was enough to pass at the the A-main final. Almost with stock setup. I'm really happy from the performance of my car :):)

RC MARKET 12-18-2008 03:37 AM

in small track with hairpin turn,
use which Shock oil & Spring ?

Thankyou !

rx7ttlm 12-18-2008 03:47 AM


Originally Posted by RC MARKET (Post 5181302)
in small track with hairpin turn,
use which Shock oil & Spring ?

Thankyou !

grip? with decent grip I usually start in the pink range(light purple as xray calls it), 600/1 F and 600/2 R, front arm at top roll center position(one up from stock), rear roll center inner arm pivot one up from stock(raising rear roll center), rear diff 80k (I run as thick of oil as I can without snap oversteer), spool front. maybe try violet all around if the grip is low, and also drop the weight of the rear diff oil, and play with shock oil, another combo that works well sometimes is 600/2 and 500/1 or 2. the heavier diff oil and roll center changes seem to be the biggest changes.front bar flat if stock, about 45 degrees if you have the .7 bar. cheers.


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