Great, thanks goop! ;)
Guess I'll just go with the plastic shock body and stock on them :lol:

Thanks again!




Toink :eek:

i have been to 8 races with my NT1 and with never running a nitro car before, i have yet to break a shock body. it not like im slow and not going fast enough to break one lol. i have made the A main every time i have set the NT1 on the track. i have gotten it to where im only a half a second off paul, and im very happy with that.

Thats what I've been running on medium to high grip tracks for the last month. Works great, increases steering and lowers the CG a tad. The car also feels more stable when the grip comes up high. :nod:

I wouldn't recommend it for low grip tracks though. ;)

Goop,

U got pm dude.

Socko

For the dog bones issue, do I need to buy the complete CVD set (335205) or can I just buy the dog bones CVD (335225)?


I just picked up my NT1 a few days ago, is there anything else that I need to make this race ready?

just buy 2 cvd sets (335225) that will get you 2 front cvd's that is all you will need also the aluminium hexs are a good thing to have

Team GP
 

Sorry GP what was that you were saying gives more stability in HIGH grip situations, I must have missed something ??:blush:

GP
 

Will be trying your latest setup this weekend Team GP, Wish us luck, Any more tips for a high grip technical track??:smile:

Latest setup just posted with a few changes. :sweat:

Our track is somewhat technical, but open (wide). I'm not sure how the setup will work on a tighter technical track though. I would venture to say that it should be close with only a quick change in anti-roll bar settings to balance it out and/or increase/decrease overall grip if needed. But don't quote me on that... :D

TeamGP Caster Angles
 

TeamGP; If its not a silly question why do u use only 4 deg caster,woulldnt more caster increase your ON power steering,our car is awesome but we need MORE ON power steering, currently running 60,000 rear diff, what does 30,000 do for you???

It does to a point. Because of the extra camber gain associated with increased caster, you may find that the contact patch of the front outside tire will be too small and the front end will push even more as your wheels get closer to full lock. It really depends on your overall setup, rim flex and how much the chassis rolls.

The setup that I've been developing gains its on-power steering through keeping the rear end of the car slightly higher than the front with full power being applied. If the ride height, droop, spring or anti-roll bar settings are even slightly different than what I've posted, the on-power steering will go away quickly. In order to maintain the higher rear ride height I found that the 10lb stiffer rear springs and stiff rear anti-roll bar are needed on the NT1 as it is rear heavy.

However, I was very surprised that the car did not oversteer with the 38lb red springs and 2.6mm bar. :nod: I did have to keep the rear roll center low on the arm and camber link settings to keep it in check though. To me this gave a very predictable rear end rotation off-power and through the middle of the corner. Then once the power is applied, the weight over the front end allows the front wheels to dictate where the car goes and how quickly it can change the line if trying to pass coming out of a corner. The rear actually straightens up quickly going on-power and gives me more confidence to go full throttle earlier.

Another surprise was how the car handled when the rear tires wore down quicker and the rear ride height lessened. I believe that where the ride height change decreases steering, the rear tires make up for it in more rotation due to their smaller diameter. Hence, the car steers the same or slightly more as the rear tires wear down more than the fronts.

I started working on this type of base setup with my T2 (electric) last year while trying to make the steering instantly responsive AND yet smooth when going from straight to full lock on entry and exit. In order to do this, I had to keep the camber change minimal and hence the reduction in caster. I actually ran 0d caster on the T2 with a stiff rear setup. :eek: :D

NOTE: This setup is NOT the norm as mine never are though... :D

TeamGP
 

thanks for your reply,starts to make sense now, Agree the NT! is rear heavy and planted, why did u go to 30,000 rear diff oil, what differences did you find this made for you?? PS: thanks for all your time

I forgot to add that the 30k rear diff oil is again a necessity due to the overall setup. It allows the rear end to rotate much better when entering the corners and also keeps it very stable on exit when running less than 1d of rear toe-in.

No problem at all answering your questions. That is my prime duty for XRAY.

Unfortunately my driving skills aren't good enough to be a true team driver. So I make up for it in trying silly stuff, blowing hot air in the forums and sometimes writing a sentence or two of documentation. :D

TeamGP: I'm very curious to try your setup and see how it handles on a high speed sweeping track. The .25rear tow gets me curious as to how it keeps the rear planted without a lot of tire wear though. If you stay on throttle, I can see that it would keep the rear under the car with the front being pulled around(sort of), but then the 30,000 rear diff to gain more stability. I'll try it on my backup car and let you know what I think next Sunday.

Barry Baker setup
 

hi guys could someone please pm me with barry`s set up as i can not seem to down load it from x ray, thanks in advance