...

Second race with the car and I was pleased but also scratching my head. Car turns on a dime. I found myself in the tube because I am still not used to how fast this car can turn or how tight it turns.
But I also found myself trying to keep the car pointing in the right direction because the rear had no grip at all. Ice all day. Moving the motor to the back position helped a lot but still the issue was there. The car has been stock setup wise but I lowered the center diff from 5k to 3k. The rear was 3k and now 2k.
Those changes helped the issue by at least 60%,maybe 75%. But halfway thru my B main run,the car totally changed and went back to how it was at the start of the day. I couldn't even think about touching the throttle or else the rear end would come around on me. Now I doubt that is normal for this car. Track conditions fell off a cliff for the track becoming blown out and dusty.

I plan to shorten the rear camber links but what else am I able to do to the car that will get some traction in the rear without losing to much on steering?
Setup is stock other than the center and rear diff oil.

First thing I would check for is something binding. If the rear suspension is
smooth and not binding there are a couple other things you can change.

Run more rear toe in
Swap the sway bars front to rear.
Shorten the wheelbase
Run the inner holes on the rear hub pivots.

Lower weight rear diff oil causes MORE rotation. I would go back to the 7/7/5

Yeah I would love to have the car neutral. Maybe just a hair on the push side on power.

I'll make some of those changes before Wed. Hope to do some local racing then.

Anyone?

Also i've noticed that rubber shiled of the internal clutch bearing begin to fall off way too fast: 0.5l and it popped away. Engine temps are normal. But new bearing is not fully sealed, i can see light thru inner border of rubber shield

clutch shoes have a hole in them when there worn down past the hole its time to replace them mate

you should be inspecting them after each use anyway checking clutch bearings as i said there through away item in a nitro class

some bearing only last a race others last a month but most change them every race day for clutch bearings

yes the 8mm screw will do until you get some 10mm screws there is heaps of options on that one even 12mm i think fit as well depending on the motor

but yes bearing in clutch is very hit and miss and i dont believe its a heat issue either its just part of nitro racing to have packs of those bearings waiting to use

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmODg4OZ7fg will answer when to replace your clutch.

The bearings are not air/light tight. I've run bearings with no shields before. I dont recommend it but it wont hurt anything. Bearing will just become contaminated and kill the balls faster. bearings are a quick consumable item. If they are in question. Replace them but know that none are completely airtight....

Clutch shoes...I normally dont have a timeline. Just check on them during tear down and cleaning of the car. If there is to much gap between the shoes and bell or the shoes are just that warn down(if not damaged). I replace them. Also grind down any mushrooming of the shoes.

The screw I think will be fine. Be sure to use some blue thread lock on it to help it stay in place.
I to lost the rubber shield on the inside bearing. I normally dont run those types of bearings on the inside. It could be the bearing but Ive always run Avid bearings. Half rubber,half metal. I normally change them out every month depending on how much I race.

Thanks for replies.
The reason of my worry is about alu powder i've found after last run. I've never seen this before, even after longer run sessions (i've spent only 0.5L), and after removing clutchbell i noticed visible wear of the shoes compared to prev. times. What can cause excess shoe wear? External conditions were same as per most of previous runs - traction, temp, fuel, etc.
small upd: there was some dirt inside clutchbell, i haven't cleaned it before (didn't know that it needed, didn't notice this dirt inside bell). Can this affect wear speed?

You should be checking clutch after qualifiers at minimum if not between races just cus it's such an integral part. The dust in the clutch is normal, you have metal hitting metal at 45k rpms so there's bound to be some dust.

Hey guys, I feel like I'm not getting 100% brake power and I know the servo and linkage are correct but it still doesn't seem to have much brake and to add to the issue my nose is coming up on jumps so I need the brake.

Side note, just got these:
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...age-Metal-Case

The 150s for throttle and 150t for steering, best price on awesome speed and torque and so smooth and quiet, coming from savox, I thought the servos were broken cus they didn't make a sound. And all Aluminum case and comes w aluminum servo horn all for $110-120... Half the price of comparable futaba/hitec servos. Very happy.

Take out the center diff and snug down all four brake post screws and then
back them off 1/2 turn. This should give the proper free play at the discs.
You may need to dremel a touch of the center brace to give clearance for
the nut driver. Also the ears on the brake cams need to be orientated the
proper way, its possible you might have one in backwards.

Nose high flight is almost always a tuning issue. Top end is to lean to cover
a rich lower end. Go to the nitro engine thread and read the tuning bible
section by Ron Paris.

Check your pad distance. I use the same servo. I also had to play with the turnbuckle length to get it the way i wanted.

I'm trying to figure out why shoes came from 'slightly worn' to 'worn to minimal' state just withit four tanks. I've measured distance between very tips of shoes, and it's 23.25mm, enough for two tanks of practice but i don't think that having a full race day with this set is a good idea.
Can someone post a full clutch system mainterance checklist with some explanations like 'how to remove mushrooming' and so on.

Just received my updated tank, here are some closeups:
Rubber grommets and added material around 'em:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...48/16170-1.jpg

Fuel line goes directly into tank:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...48/16171-1.jpg

Top view:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...527_104442.jpg

Updated sealing on the lid:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...48/16173-1.jpg

New internals around the clunk:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...48/16174-1.jpg

At least clunk doesn't stuck anymore=)
New lid is really tight, and tank itself seems very solid. Drive tests gonna be soon, but at this moment i can say - Well done, Tekno! Your support level is very high, and you don't afraid to meet problem.