Great mod, I'll add that to page 1. :)

That's a good mod and I applaud your effort.... however completely unnecessary. Sorry.


I have personally found between all the Tekno vehicles I run, 1) the wing screws and 2) the rear bulk screws are most prone to bending. That being said, I have never stripped a single one after multiple seaons.

Recommendations: Use chapstick or oil to thread it for the first time. Use a QUALITY driver (I've heard "questionable" feedback on the VPPro brand to say the least) and you're much less likely to have issues. Use a electric driver to initial threading which decreases the likelihood of stripping probably 5-10 fold. Just ensure that if you do that you go SLOW and keep it cool and lubricated in order to not stress the plastic/composite.

While I'm not a losi man for vehicles, I use them as a %#@%#&%(@@&$@ hammer and they still go strong :D I replaced my first 2.0mm losi last season bit after roughly 10 years of use finally... I think that speaks for itself.

The bit I have fits to good but I also have Ofna bits and the same happens. I also use a mini driver because there is no way in hell I'm screwing those long things in! lol.
The bits just pop out because they don't sit down far. It's much like the problem people will have when screws have to much paint on them and the bit doesn't fit well because of it. These don't have paint so that isn't the issue but it feels like it.

Thanks for the front page pasting!
I have not tried this change on the front but will soon.

I just like not changing bits on my driver for those 2 screws :)

I didn't even notice that lol. Good point!

That's a great tip. I also find that the 3x40 heads are soft and prone to stripping very easy. Don't have any issues with the other sizes. Just that one for some reason.

Hey Japan,
The link from your throttle servo to the LSN side of carb should be perpendicular to the chassis not on an angle like that, your going to mess up your carb. Loosen the set screw on the ring w the ball end on the carb and rotate it so your link is perpendicular

I am pretty sure that the beveled head of the 3x40 screw needs to "Lock in" to the rear hinge pin holder to keep it from moving.

So, can anyone confirm/decline my thoughts about clutchshoes' rapid wear came after running engine mounts with only 3 screws fastening them to the chassis?

Should not effect it at all mate.

When you say rapid wear how long are you talking ?

What springs are you as that might make a difference as well

Rapid is goin from 'worn a bit' to 'worn down to spring ends' in a 0.5L.
Springs are stock.

Ok that's really weird mate I am easy getting 3 to 5L on them no probs something is not right in there that's for sure.

Engine torque, buggy weight and how much you pull the trigger determines clutch wear. Heavier springs wear shoes quicker, I am on a gallon on the kit shoes and they still look good. I would be intrested to see pics of your clutch.

Yes, that's true. The counter sunk screw was chosen to center or "lock in" the holder. The holder is also keyed to the chassis so that helps if you use the caphead screws, but you're right, it won't be as accurate as the CS screws.