Yea ive adjusted the EPA and Links to the point where they can no longer mechanically pull without bending the plastics and Ive cleaned them alot but maybe im just expecting more brakes than a nitro has? should it stop like an e buggy?

My brakes are so strong that if I have to much front brake that it will stand up on the front wheels.
What servo do you have?

I was about say the same thing.

What is the piston choice for everyone? Black or white? What is the setup for each?

I have the protek 150s which is very fast and very strong

Thanks. After a lot of trial and error, I think I finally found the sweet spot for this motor. I can't get the carb really in a straight line and clearance is only about 3.5mm, but it's better than I had. Any more to the left and I don't have enough clearance. Any more to the right and it's right at the filter.

http://mad-skillz.com/rc/06.18.2014-1.jpg

http://mad-skillz.com/rc/06.18.2014-2.jpg

My e-buggy has more stopping power, to the point I can do cartwheels down the straight. That being said, this one is no slouch in the brake area. You should have more than enough.

I have to assume they aren't worn yet. Is it 50/50 forward/rear (try slowly braking when the vehicle is in the air while spinning the drive shafts and you can see which one engages and stops first)?

You should check out the diagram in the manual because the carb should be being pulled out in a straight line.

is your air filter boot on the right way? short end on the filter and long end on the motor? your screws look way more level than mine do. my rear screw sits higher than the front one.

:lol: That's what I'm fighting and have been discussing here...

Yes, boot is oriented right. I tried a couple more changes, and I've got it pretty close to pulling straight with 3.5mm of clearance now. I also swapped out the filter screw for a much longer one which also should help it from bouncing around possibly keeping it out of danger distance. The picture is at an angle a bit, but yes, the back sits higher than the front.

I'll run it this way for a bit and see if that helps out. I'm thinking the short screw possibly causing bouncing and the linkage snagging on the foam were the main cause of the stripping. I'm guessing distance will be ok for now, even with the huge jumps. Time to throw a gallon at it and see what happens :)

I have over two gallons on my converted NB48 to a On-road GT lots of brake use. They work well. And can set them to lock up if I want. I keep them clean, and rough them up alittle with fine sandpaper.

Just checked again as well, 2 of the 4 clutch shoes have the holes just now disappearing. Estimate is roughly 3-3.5g of fuel, so that's pretty good I believe right? The shoes are a bit pricey, but I've heard others lasting a lot shorter time.

Also, ordered the metal servo horn someone mentioned to see how well that fits. It will make my cleanup process a bit more stress free.

your going to ruin that carb. if any carb needs to be pulled straight its a werks carb. the way it is set as it pulling it also twisting. How about some people post some pics up their linkage set ups to help out.

+1
That'd be great! We're putting our first ever NB together with a Werks setup--any additional help/pics/images would be greatly appreciated. Don't even have motor mounted in buggy yet. Just wanna get it right.

throttle linkage is prob a huge oversight in many of the cars I see. most just think if it pulls smooth its good to go. I personally ran Werks engines for a loooooong time and the carb is awesome however tolorances are very tight and the any type of twisting as it opens will cause future issues with the engine. If you can get the linkage to line up the engine will last forever.