Ordered mine yesterday! What bodies fit?

Stock body from Tekno or the FTW xb9 fits real nice with less rubbing then the stock body

FTW xb9 body --- 2013 spec?

2nd fuel tank
 

So I ran my second new fuel tank this weekend and it ended up breaking differently than the first tank. The first one spider cracked. The second one, the front supporting mount broke off. Pics attached below.

I called Tekno and they advised as per this forum that these holes should be drilled with a 1/8th” bit. Drilling the holes (front & rear mounts) help prevent the front/rear mounting tabs from breaking. The screw is supposed to be able to fit a bit loose, not threaded. This way when the chassis flexes, it does not break the plastic. The tech on phone Thomas, was helpful and patient in explaining the issues they have seen with the tank.

I have submitted both my tanks for warranty and hope to get replacements soon.

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...s35f69eba.jpeg

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...s22f290e6.jpeg

My opinion on this issue:

Looks like there isn't enough flex in the way the tekno tank is mounted to the post - chassis obviously has sufficient amount of flex to cause the issue of breakage.

I think the way the tank posts themselves are designed with the flanged section at the top where the O-rings sit don't allow enough flex - am I right in assuming that at least one of the 2 O-rings sits 'recessed' into the top of the post? Doesn't look like enough of a cushion/flex effect from just the 2 O-rings at the base of the fuel tank mounting tab. Also assuming its a metal washer used on the cap head screw, that would help the leverage.

Something along the lines of the HB D812 fuel tank post flanged rubber bushings could solve this issue (maybe), decent amount of rubber thickness to allow movement whilst still securing the tank, maybe use of a rubber grommet in the mounting hole or even substituting a button head screw with a rubber o-ring (instead of a metal washer) to sandwich the mount tab:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Line-Clip-Set

I use the rubber grommets off the Mugen tank. Had to make the hole a little bigger to fit the grommet. Provides support top and bottom.

I see what you are trying to say, the issue is that the tank is not able to "float" on the mounts and o-rings because of the screws not allowing the tank to move from the flashing on the tanks. Once the holes are drilled out like I stated a page back we have experienced 0 problems with the tank cracking or breaking an ear off. This is because once you drill the holes out the tank can move freely.

-Thomas

Doesn't every other car on the market have a rubber grommet that slides into the mounting ears of the tank, in order to avoid just this kind of problem?
In which case, everyone should just buy some rubber grommets off a mugen or hotbodies, and drill the hole a bit bigger?

That's a good idea. I might try these grommets on my next tank.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...bber-Grommet-2

Here is a pic of my tank.

Got to race my NB for the second time yesterday and it was awesome. I feel like I'm finally getting pretty close to the right tune. The car was just fast. I won't go into the details but the 30 minute main was just epic. I also ran it with the aluminum Sylveris RC axles and they held up just fine.

Can't wait for PNB next month.
Attachment 1165074

Good job for the 3rd time!!

Hello John,

I'm pleased with "my first americain driver" !
It's a pleasure for me to support you as I can !
Good luck for the next race !

Bye !

Nice - pretty much the style of set-up I was talking about.

Body options
 

Can someone please confirm based on experience if the FTW XB9 body that works with the NB is part number FTW00033 or FTW00048 (2013 spec XB9). Some post back it was mentioned that the FTW00033, worked better than the 808 body, but I would prefer to go with the FTW00048 (for wider 2013 chassis) if it works as well. Thanks.