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the tekno 6
I got to talk to tom from tekno on the the phone the other day, and they are some down to earth guys. I hope they all get to go the DNC and place good, GOOD LUCK GUYS!!!!
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Im getting ready to start running this buggy. I have been running the E buggy and love it. Cant wait to run this thing. It looks sweet.:nod:
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1 Attachment(s)
Tank cracked within first few laps at club event. Tank was appropriately loose so it wasn't too tight, it wasn't too loose and I'm not really a complete noob, no hard crashes. As far as we could tell, it was the drain pipe smashing against the drain on the chassis. Either way, it's brittle plastic, not too happy with it. New tank after 5 mins. Might see if something from a different car fits
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This question is for the guys that have been running the car the for awhile now . What have you notice to wear ? Do you change parts often ? How is the car holding up ?
How does the car handle ruff blown out tracks ? And lastly is there a flaw with the tanks? I have read the forum a few times and have read a few tanks have broken . Sorry for all the questions but I want to buy something that is reliable . My car has been very reliable . |
Originally Posted by Eastside777
(Post 12967206)
This question is for the guys that have been running the car the for awhile now . What have you notice to wear ? Do you change parts often ? How is the car holding up ?
How does the car handle ruff blown out tracks ? And lastly is there a flaw with the tanks? I have read the forum a few times and have read a few tanks have broken . Sorry for all the questions but I want to buy something that is reliable . My car has been very reliable . |
Heu guys,
I want to let you know that i make low roll center delrin hinge pin inserts for the rear of all of the Tekno vehicles. They help increase rear traction without any sacrifices to good setups. I have just finished a large run of them for the guys with the EB 48 and am offering them here too. I am selling them for $15.00 per pair shipped in the US. Pm me if you are interested. Thanks, Jason |
Planning on buying a tekno but are they gonna fix the tank issue. Thats really the only thing that has kept me from buyning it.
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Originally Posted by BigInJapan
(Post 12966276)
Tank cracked within first few laps at club event. Tank was appropriately loose so it wasn't too tight, it wasn't too loose and I'm not really a complete noob, no hard crashes. As far as we could tell, it was the drain pipe smashing against the drain on the chassis. Either way, it's brittle plastic, not too happy with it. New tank after 5 mins. Might see if something from a different car fits
Aside from the fuel tubing with the clunk not being installed all the way on the nipple from the factory, there are no known issues with the tanks. We have customers with many gallons on their stock tank and still going strong. That's not to say we won't be looking at the tank if more people have issues. But as of right now there are very few isolated incidents. |
WHICH LIFE PACKS WILL FIT IN THE BATTERY BOX?
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Originally Posted by teknorc
(Post 12975610)
It's hard to say what caused this. We have only seen two cracked tanks from massive crashes. We have a 50% general warranty on all parts. Visit our website for more details (http://www.teknorc.com/warranty-repair/).
Aside from the fuel tubing with the clunk not being installed all the way on the nipple from the factory, there are no known issues with the tanks. We have customers with many gallons on their stock tank and still going strong. That's not to say we won't be looking at the tank if more people have issues. But as of right now there are very few isolated incidents. My theory: There is a fairly hefty set of triple>doubles at our track, after landing the triple nose down, nitro was spraying as it jumped the double > brought into pits. I have to put it down to chassis flex. Also after re-examination of tank, I think the screw holes in the tank are too tight, and i will drill out the holes next time. Doesnt matter if there are marshmallows under the tank, if the chassis flexes and the screws have no play, somethings gonna give. thanks for the warranty link. I have filled out your warranty form and tank is on its way back to you. I must say, during the short drive, the buggy's steering was very impressive and I'm looking forward to driving it a lot more next time |
Originally Posted by teknorc
(Post 12975610)
It's hard to say what caused this. We have only seen two cracked tanks from massive crashes. We have a 50% general warranty on all parts. Visit our website for more details (http://www.teknorc.com/warranty-repair/).
Aside from the fuel tubing with the clunk not being installed all the way on the nipple from the factory, there are no known issues with the tanks. We have customers with many gallons on their stock tank and still going strong. That's not to say we won't be looking at the tank if more people have issues. But as of right now there are very few isolated incidents. http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...psb5e5c463.jpg My local hobby shop owner which has over 20 years of nitro racing experience did mention that he has seen issues with tanks from other kits that use similar "clearer type of plastic" versus "the less transparent plastic". He mentioned that with the clearer plastic he has seen similar cracking issues in regards to chassis flex and that the "less transparent" do not have the same issues. I realize that is not very scientific, not sure what the different chemical make up of the plastics are, just using a way to describe what I was advised based on his experience. If you look up for example the Losi tank, it is made of "less transparent" type of plastic. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Tank-8IGHT-20 As someone else mentioned in the forum I plan on doing some research to find out if another tank will fit the kit. I think the Losi is very close. As soon as I find something, I will share. If there is indeed an issue with the tank, I have full confidence that Tekno will address is it correctly and remedy the issue to current and future NB48 owners. Tekno has a great reputation of standing by their products. Thanks for the warranty link. |
Originally Posted by MattDub
(Post 12946957)
Boss Ross, here are a few things to check.
As others have stated makes sure the screws are tight enough to just press the tank to the O-rings. It should be able to wiggle a little. The O-rings should not be compressed to the point they bulge. Be sure to use the m3 washer between the tank and screw head. Check the drip tube from the tank and trim the tube so it ends just before going into the mud guard. You do not want the drip tube going into the mud guard. This can cause the tank to break when flexing. Check clearance around the tank. It should not touch anything (i.e. the front chassis brace, drive line, pipe) and should be free to vibrate and slightly move. There should be about 5mm of clearance between the pipe and tank. You might need to reposition the pipe, tank or fuel line if it is too close. Make sure the pipe is pushed as far down and to the left of the car as possible. The mud guard should be touching the pipe on the bottom and left sides. I test this by flexing the mud guard up and the pipe should move too. Make sure the pipe hanger is not touching the tank on the bottom side. The hanger should not protrude through the right side of the hanger block. Also make sure the hanger block is extremely tight. Be sure to use Loctite on both the m5 set screw and the m4 flat head screw in the hanger block. We have been looking into this and it appears there might be another item that can contribute to the cracked tanks. Flashing from the molding process can enter the screw holes used to mount the tank to the posts. Please use a hobby knife to remove this flashing and make sure the screw can slide through the opening without needing to be threaded through the tabs. |
Originally Posted by MattDub
(Post 12982480)
Hello Everyone,
We have been looking into this and it appears there might be another item that can contribute to the cracked tanks. Flashing from the molding process can enter the screw holes used to mount the tank to the posts. Please use a hobby knife to remove this flashing and make sure the screw can slide through the opening without needing to be threaded through the tabs. |
When you reach bag U or page 30 of the instruction manual, your beginning the process of the tank installation. It is crucial that you either ream out or drill out (with a 1/8th” bit) the holes where the tank attaches to the tank posts. The screw TKR1524 should be able to got through the tank without having to thread it. We have found that when you don’t perform this procedure that the tank is more prone to cracking and breaking. If your tank still breaks then we offer a general warranty on parts please see the link below for more information:
http://www.teknorc.com/warranty-repair/ Here are some pictures I just took for reference. This tank had flashing left from the mold as you can see, Before: http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...pszwjmorsu.jpg During: http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...psaoh0u7g4.jpg After: http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...psv9ocovhv.jpg Screw falls right in with no resistance: http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps9z61ynox.jpg -Thomas |
Great tip, when are the truggy tanks coming in? I need one.
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