Little wet!

Been traveling the last couple of weeks so I haven't had time to race.

How did the 10 degree changes work? Modify anything else? I ran at practice tonight and it is indeed pushing pretty hard, so probably clean it up and make some changes tomorrow evening before Saturday racing.

Tekno nitro noob questions, using stock components.

I already stressed my first clutch bearing on my first 30 minute a-main, probably not a huge surprise. I picked up 50 or so spares from tekno and avid. I've heard that most replace every big race day or so, sound right?

Clutch shoes, bell, and springs. How often to replace? I've seen everything from one gallon to five gallons.

bearing are hit and miss to be honest and it cou,ld be 1 race or 1 race meet or if the tracks clean and not dusty etc then easy a few days race meets etc

but to be safe all ways change them before a main race eg A main in big event dont take the chance

as for the shoes etc i have gone through 1 set of shoes and onto my 2nd set racing every 2nd weekend since Dec with it. still on the same clutch bell and same clutch springs

i have been told 2 x shoe replacements and then change your springs as well and clean clutch bell as required with wet dry paper etc

Because i always buy not only one brand spares, but also tools, tires, hopups, etc.etc., and only amain has almost everything required, so i just pay for one express parcel and receive it in next 7-8 days instead of waiting for several 1st class for more than month.
But tank itself is goin' to me directly from tekno.

Are all Losi clutch parts compatible with the NB48 clutch?

nice video of our track here in Scotland all one day started out nice and dry and really sunny then the heavens opened up

http://www.veoh.com/watch/v72223204sn5fJtTb

yep

Have some new bodies on the way from my buddy at rcfx designs. I will grab some pictures when they're mounted on the EB48/NB48's.
http://mad-skillz.com/rc/05.23.2014-3.jpg

BTW, I do have to say good work on the new tank Tekno. I couldn't race the last two weekends due to travel, but had it out for practice last night. It was both heavily dusty and then muddy when we watered it down. The new tank does a much better job of keeping dirt away from around the lid/rim area, it seals really well, and the material seems quite a bit more flexible. I still installed half a air filter of foam between the tank and chassis for safety, but initial inspection looks MUCH better than the old.

Wow that gets really wet :eek::eek::eek:

How do your servoes go ?

Not sure I would want that much water around my electronics.

Nice looking bodies.

Just a tip, when you install the 10 Deg hubs you may had to dremel a tiny bit in a area where the spindle hits at full lock. You will feel it if it rubs get tight before hitting full lock. Not a big deal at all. And yours may be fine, just a FYI.

Thanks for the heads up. I did a few changes this morning during practice which helped a bit, but it isn't as drastic as I would like. My EB48 is really edgy and my NB48 is quite the opposite, so they're a bit of a challenge driving back to back. NB48 pushes heavily through the corners (even after a few changes), the end doesn't come around real well, suspension needs to be a little softer, etc. That being said, it's crazy consistent, enough to pull off on my second outing a 30 min a-main sportsman win (coming back from 12th after a nasty start), and a second place in e-buggy a-main.

My EB48 is really due for a parts refresh (original kit and I have almost a year on most of the parts). So I'll probably tear both apart this weekend and try to find a setup that drives somewhat similarly for the two bit in-between how they are today. I realize that they will never be identical (nor do I want that), but they're at a bit of the extreme opposite scales right now.

Side, note, can you buy the collet separate or know what other manufacture's part is the same (losi maybe since everyone seems to be referencing those clutches)? My clutch came loose today and I found I had burned that up. Luckily I had a spare clutch parts kit handy.

Ok 1st run with the new tank and it's perfect seals better way stronger not even a mark on it after a full days racing and 30 min A main with largish jumps real happy :nod: :nod:

I also put it through tech inspection and with all the full fuel tube on it and tank cap it's about 123ml of fuel so a safe amount to pass any tech.

Since i newb into nitro, i have one question: how would i know when it's time to replace clutch shoes? Is there any external signs, or it's just 'remove and check' item?
And another one: is it ok to temporary use M3x8 screw at the end of the clutchbell? I don't have M3x10 flat to make a direct replace, but i have some capheads, can i use caphead screw instead of flathead?