The Bitty Force doesnt fit, not sure if they have another. The Nightfox body is listed in the first post I think. It fits a pretty good fit.

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...psbfe7a7ad.jpg

I have an NB48 for sale within Aus/NZ for anyone who's thinking of running one.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...ekno-nb48.html

What are you trying next?

Going to try out the xb8. The mugen eco i've been running has sort of converted me to the pillow ball front ends. In saying that though, the mugen doesn't overly suit my driving style I think, which is aggressive. I've read opinions stating the xb8 is aggressive so it may be the ticket!

Set up question
 

Im currently running Mo's set with the exception of 6x1.5 pistons with losi shock oil 35f 27r. From this setup what are the changes I can make to gain more on power rear traction? Tires I have run - Megabits(pink) Impacts (s,ss) Gridirons II (s) Turbo trax(extra soft). The reason I feel its in the the setup is bc I ran My D812 on the same track and with the same tires and it was hooked. But to be honest that car has always been hooked and stable. Im trying to get my Tekno to feel this way bc I know I can be faster with it. I placed second(Should have won,but thats a long story) at a toys for tots this weekend but the car felt like it was on top of the dirt. I couldn't really push it.

Did you try the 10.2 pistons and heavier oils initially to see how you liked them? There was also a big difference between 4 and 5k in the rear diff.

HINGE PIN HOLDERS ADJUSTMENT
 

I am a new RC Driver and i bought a Tekno NB48. I dont know what mean some diferents technical terms about de Hinge Pins holders position.

Whats mean and what efects Am I will feel when i move Hinge pins holders?

FRONT OUTER (SWEEP)
FRONT INNER (KICK-UP)

REAR OUTER (TOE IN)
REAR INNER (ANTI-SQUAT)

Thanks

Sweep:
The purpose of sweeping the arm forward or backward is mostly to sweep the driveshafts forward or backward. When the driveshafts are angled it changes how the car reacts on and off power. With less front arm sweep, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase your o-power steering. With more front arm sweep, the stub axles are being twisted up, lifting the tires and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to more arm sweep is jump landing. With the arms back, the vehicle settles much faster which allows you to get on the throttle quicker. During breaking and o throttle the front end will drop less and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner

Kickup:
Front kick-up is used to adjust the amount of weight transfer to the front
when the vehicle is o-throttle or under braking. Changing the front kick
up angle also changes the caster angle(angle of the steering hubs).

More Kick Up yields:
More Weight Transfer Under Braking
Front End Drops More Under Braking
Handling Improved on Bumpy tracks
Decreased Steering Response

Less Kick Up:
Less Weight Transfer Under Braking
Front End Drops Less Under Braking
Handling is improved on Smooth Tracks
Increased Steering Response

Rear Toe: (there is also front toe)
Toe in and toe out are terms used to describe the angle in which the
wheels point when looking down at them from the top of the vehicle.
Toe is used to stabilize the vehicle at the expense of traction. Front
wheels can be toed in or out to suit various situations. Rear wheels
should only have varying degrees of toe in.

More Rear Toe In:
Increases Understeer
More Stable On-Power/ Through Corner Exit
and During Braking
Less Chance of Loosing Rear Traction
Decreased Top Speed

Less Rear Toe In:
Less Stable On-Power/ Through Corner Exit
and During Braking
More Chance of Loosing Rear Traction
Increased Top Speed


Anti Squat:
Rear anti-squat is the angle of the rear lower suspension arm when viewed
from the side of the vehicle. With anti-squat the back of the arm is lower than
the front of the arm. Rear anti-squat is used as a tuning aid primarily when a
vehicle needs to run a soft rear spring but also has a tendency for the rear end
to squat down too much under acceleration. An added benefit of rear anti squat
is quicker initial acceleration at the start of a race. In order to prevent
100% of the vehicles weight transfer force from being exerted onto the soft
rear springs, anti-squat is used to allow a certain percentage of the weight
transfer to be absorbed by the rear lower arm motion.

Less Anti-Squat:
More Rear Traction O Power
Less Rear Traction On-Power
Better On Bumpier Tracks

More Anti-Squat:
More Rear Traction During Acceleration
Less Rear Traction O Power
Better on Smooth High Grip Tracks

Well, I had the opportunity to meet John, Matt, and Lutz over the weekend at the Badlands here in SC. Great crew of guys. I've meet a number of the big names over the years, but hadn't yet me Lutz. Let me tell you what, this dude is definitely what the hobby should be about for most of the big sponsored guys. Helping out, volunteering, and probably one of the fastest turnmarshals out there regardless of it's the F main, kids class, or otherwise. I always thought it was a good idea after Tekno brought him onboard, but even more now watching his presence and attitude at the track. You can see the big tekno area they had setup across the track.

Some of the mains had brutal starts (mine included having lap times nearly double what it should be due to people not playing it safe and hammering down), but a great event in general. Surface is a clay/dirt/sand mixture and the majority of it was blue groove in a matter of hours. There was also minimal dust, no matter how many were running on it. Definitely will be back again next year.

Yes but that was in the beginning of me owning the car. I was trying to figure out a good setup. Once I tried Mo's setup the car was better but a use the new 6x1.5 pistons and thought that is what help the car not be so loose. So I never went back to those pistons. Are you suggesting they will provide more on power traction?

Im thinking my problem may be in my steering. My Tekno seems to have too much steering at times. Or it reacts too quick. If im going into a 180 turn I have to be real careful going in and coming out. I cant afford to be real aggressive bc I will either turn into the pipe or wash the rear end out upon exit. A lot of the times I run up the inside pipe when exiting a corner.... Now with my D812 I can take those same corners and do not have to worry about being so precise. Basically this car reacts slower to streeing input but still gives you the turning radius to get in and out turns. Im not saying the D812 is better ,its just more forgiving in that area in my case. Maybe I just need to focus on smoothing out the steering. Any tips are appreciated

I'd just go back to Mo's base setup and start from there again since it's been a while since you've tried it. Not saying there is an issue with the 6.5s at all, just something to try again. Make sure to adjust oils based on current temps. I've been able to be extremely aggressive throwing the buggy into a corner and coming off under power (way more so than my new Mugen). You have the LRC pivot block as well? It really brought that setup together. I'm interested in trying Lutz Fear Farm setup down at Heritage too.

Put in the steering stops if you aren't using them already. That will probably fix the issue. Our car has more steering angle than any other and people often mistake this for a loose rear end, when really it's just hyper-steering :). For reference, Lutz is now using 6 washers under the steering stops. That is a good starting point. You may also want to turn down your dual rate if there is still too much steering.

Assuming you already have the LRC rear hinge pin brace?

Here are a few things to try.

If you are on a low to medium traction track try going slightly lower in center diff oil. 1 to 2k max. This will help the front pull the rear.

Change the wheel base. Move the 2mm plastic washer to behind the rear hub. Leave the 1mm washer in front. This will add rear traction and take away steering.

If you are losing rear traction exiting a corner on power try less rear toe.

Yes I do have LRC block. I definitly thought about that. Im going to try 5-3-3. As far as rear toe I am running two dots out. Are you saying run center dot?

Daniel and Matt have given you some great chassis setup advice. So all I have to add is some radio options. You may want to try adjusting the steering expo, it was a game changer for me especially since the Teknos have so much steering, it kind of numbs down the initial steering input so you dont over do it and can make small corrections more easily, much like throttle expo... obviously. Dual Rate is also an option as Daniel mentioned but is a little different than expo. What servo are you running, many people crazy fast servos but more often than not its way over kill. If this is the case you can also use your radio to slow the servo down.