Thanks, seems i need to some more wrench work before first run=) Shimmed it to zero play, because manual doesn't say anything about this.

So I should probably order 2 back up tanks until the new tanks come in? Is that what I'm hearing in addition to foam under tank?

That track looks awesome...hope I can get out there sometime this summer. Good luck at the Hut!

JsK should i buy a second clutch set up? others have suggested it.

I believe i have 2 green and 2 yellows springs in there now.

Probably not a bad idea if you race on tracks with big air or flat-landing jumps.


Couple Questions- How long do brake pads typically last? Is it normal for them to have indentations in them after their 1st race weekend? Thanks!

That's up to you. I only have one spare but thats for both the buggy and truggy. If i break a tank the spare buggy one can go in either one. I guess it
depends on how much peace of mind is worth to you.

With this being your first year with nitro I would say stick with the stock clutch for now. They work fine, just keep an eye on the shoes mushrooming. 2 green and 2 gold is pretty mild. You can try 4 greens but some motors will
not pull that soft of a clutch off the bottom.

What motor/pipe combo are you running?

I meant order a second Tekno clutch set up just as a back up. I am running Reds R5c and Reds pipe... its awesome

is there a good write up somewhere describing how the clutch effects low end/ top end etc...

Softer springs make the clutch engage at a lower rpm. Makes the car accelerate better on a loose surface. Best for engines with a lot of low end. Harder springs engage at a higher rpm. Good on high bite tracks that let you really mash the throttle coming out of the corner.

Thanks buddy, hope to see you at a race soon.

Great explanation, my 2 main tracks are low-med traction and rough so softer would be best? Should I go all green or leave it 2 green and 2 yellow? I don't a lot of bottom end but I'm still tuning the motor. In Ebuggy I can clear all the jumps easy but w my nb48 it doesn't have the same power yet

Very good writeup on the tank mods! I prefer to use the 2nd method and retain the nipple.

I had a lot of tank issues at PNB but so did everyone else. A couple of the jumps had a very narrow window to hit the downslopes in and overshooting at all was a 20ft drop onto flat. Specifically I know Kyosho tanks had issues and I heard a lot of Mugen tanks cracked too. With that said the Tekno tanks are definitely made of the wrong material. They are simply too weak for offroad. I went through the exact same thing when I ran for Mugen and the MBX7 came out. With these being the first nitro cars Tekno has produced I completely understand issues like this.

Keep in mind Tekno has a new tank coming out shortly which I witnessed hold up to major abuse at PNB. It is a lot stronger and I believe has the clunk issue resolved. In the meantime, there are a few things you can do to strengthen the current tanks:

Boil the tank to soften the plastic slightly.
Shoe-Goo the mounting tabs to slightly reinforce.
Place foam underneath tank.
Ream tank mount holes so bolt can slide through without having to be screwed in.
Place 2 o-rings underneath each mounting tab for more cushion and to slightly raise tank from chassis.

You want the tank to have a little movement but be secure enough that it doesn't break off of the mounting tabs or smack the chassis hard enough to crack.

any one got a good setup for a small track hard packed clay almost a blue groove but just colder small jumps with a lot of tight turns

advance thanks

I think the green/gold combo is a good starting point. You could try going all gold to get a bit more snap.

about to place a spare parts order from tekno... besides the gas tank any other things recommended, specifically parts that specific to the NB because i have tons of eb48 sppares like arms and such.