when is the new NB48 tank coming out?

Aprox 2 weeks

I had a good setup going with the car in midmotor and liked it ALOT. Then just for shits and giggles i changed to rear motor .. but left everything else alone...god the car was horrible lol. Now i feel like the car is the best its ever been:)

Ready for it's first run at opening day at Family Hobbies, Vineland NJ. The longest running track in the US (opened in 1983). Body by Mels Shells

Attachment 1186218

Looks sharp! Good luck.

Looking good Rob.. see you in the morning!

Does anyone else have a problem with the header melting the rear part of the body? I'm running a Novarossi 41021 header & 9886 pipe with the motor in the rear position.

That can happen to any buggy. It's really common actually. It helps to trim that part away on both sides. Doing some testing last year, it dropped engine temp 15*-20*.

What kind of clutch bell bearings are folks using after the stock ones go bad? I'm only getting 1 race day out of a set of clutch bell bearings as I run on some very dusty tracks and would like to know if there are better alternatives out there. Thank you.

I think the stock bearings are the best to use. They have been lasting me about 1 gallon. Although i have been running indoors until recently.

I ran the stock bearings for almost 2 gallons. I don't recommend that, but they are good bearings.

I have always used the ProTeks in the 10pack for the 5x10 bearings. You can get the 5x13 in a 10 pack for 9.99 and the 5x11x5 in a 4 pack for 4.19.

2 bucks a throw to change clutch bearings is not a bad price at all.

I have always changed them before a main. Then they stay in there through practice sessions,quals and then they get changed again before mains.

Its been Looong time since i lost a clutch bell bearing using this system. There is a lot of different variables that determine how long bearings last.
Shim it to tight and it will eat bearings. To loose and they go quick also. Heat kills em just as fast as a bad shim job so make sure you bed the shoes
in and dont let them mushroom out and hang up.

So to answer your question in a round about way I personally think how you
treat them is more important than any "special" bearings. You can kill a set of
TKOs just as fast as regular bearings if you don't treat them right.

As a word of caution the only bells I have ever seen "walk" off the end of the
crank and take out the fuel tank, spur and bell are the larger bearing ones. I
have never seen a 5x10 bell do that. So 2 dollars is cheap insurance.

Get the shimming down, and change them on a regular schedule and the
dollar ones will be fine.

Thanks for the feedback gents. I will start to employ the replace clutch bell bearings before each main technique. It sounds like my problem is that I have it shimmed slightly too tight, as when I go to replace the bearings the shields are popped off of 1 or both of the bearings.

Are you prepping them at all? Metal or rubber seals? Best bearing Ive found so far are the TKO.

I'm using rear motor configuration also on a loose outdoor track, would like to see your setup but the link is down...