R/C Tech Forums - Tekno NB48

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- - Tekno NB48 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/718521-tekno-nb48.html)

Awesome mate and yes coming from electric I am the same the brakes are just not the same :lol:

But you should still be able to lock the wheels with braking and you will get used to the different driving styles as well

Well done on your 1st hit out with nitro.

I never thought I would like nitro as much as I do now coming from electric only cars. :nod: :nod: :nod:

When the tank breaks, where does it fail?

I've had them break in all different combinations, so far, front mount, rear mount, and spider cracks in all sorts of random spots. Def. has to do with material used, new tank is sounding good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bortzilla (Post 13165052)

I also got to run my NB48 for the first time this past weekend, at the beautiful LCRC Raceway in central PA. Somehow I managed to qualify 6 out of 22, and finish 3rd, right behind 2 fully sponsored team drivers for Losi and AE, not bad for my 1st time running nitro anything. The NB48 was amazing! Built it to the stock setup and it drove like a dream. The only thing I was tinkering with was trying to get more brake strength out of it. Coming from eBuggy and 4x4 SCT I was accustom to having a lot of brakes, and nitro's are simply a different beast. I got it to a point where I could hit the brakes hard in air and get the nose to come down, but I think I still have some work to do with it. Could the brake posts back out slightly when they are first run-in?

The only downside was that I broke 2 tanks in the 1st 2 qualifiers. I followed all the tips on how to strengthen them to no avail but it's all good, I know new and improved ones are on the way and Thomas at Tekno took care of me for next weekend. In order to finish my race day I glued some foam between the tank n chassis to get me thru round 3 and the 20 min. main, and it held together fine. I'm sure the 45 degree temps and a MONSTER big air triple played a big part in claiming the lives of my 2 tanks.

Anyway, I'm very, very happy with how the buggy performed Saturday. I'm going to run our ROAR regional series this season, which kicks off next Saturday, and hopefully I'll have a full day of practice Friday to play around with this bad boy.

Can't wait to run some more Nitro!!!

Did you put foam under the tanks or just the X-ray grommets?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham11 (Post 13164081)

Got my NB48 built and broke it in Saturday morning and took 3rd in the A Main that afternoon, my first time ever driving nitro. Thats a testament to the NB48's ease of set up and awesome handling. Gotta plug Reds motors too, wow it broke in with ease and really came to life with only 4-5 tanks through it and it has incredible power.

My rear was still squirelly on power coming out of the turns. Anyone have a good set up sheet for a loose hard packed track thats relatively rough and has nice size jumps?

Swap the factory bars around. Put the 2.6 on the front and the 2.5 on the rear.
More rear toe in.
Run the wheelbase full short.

Try one at a time until you get the on power grip your looking for. Also what
clutch springs are you running?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JsK (Post 13165486)

Stock springs in clutch. Is that right?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JsK (Post 13165479)

Did you put foam under the tanks or just the X-ray grommets?

Yeah, i used foam...after i broke em both:ha: i'll b sure to use foam from the start next time..that football shaped piece that comes with the stock air filter looks like it would be perfect for the task.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham11 (Post 13165799)

Stock springs in clutch. Is that right?

There are 3 different springs. .9 , 1.0 , and 1.1 . It goes in steps from 4 .9 springs being the softest clutch to 4 1.1 springs being the hardest hitting. For a buggy I would run 2 .9 and 2 1.0. If that's to aggressive off the bottom try 4 .9 springs. They are color coded I just can't remember of the top of my head what colors correspond to what wire diameter .

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bortzilla (Post 13165837)

Not sure on the air filter foam. I will try it when I get home. The 1/10 scale open cell foam works perfect so that's why I recommended it. Your not running open cell foams in your XB-4 ? I think we all have a bunch of open cell tire foams running around:D. Right now I have a day of practice and 2 Quals and a main on both buggy and truggy with no tank breakage. Not saying it will fix everything but it seems to keep the front mount from snapping off. I am also resistant to drilling a larger hole in the mounting ear for the fuel tank grommets so that's why I just used the factory o-rings.Spider cracks are from a tank bouncing around with a broken mount.

Anybody got any updated video footage of the NB48 ? Was looking for some footage from PNB but didn't see any Tekno's.

Great write up on the fuel tank mods. Glad to see you all are enjoying the buggy.:)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bortzilla (Post 13165052)

Our weekend couldn't have went more similar. I attended the season opener at MRRC out in Long Island,NY...
I broke a tank in practice only to install another one and brake that one also. My first tank wasn't salvageable but my second one I only broke the rear mount so I decided to shove some air-filter foam underneath it and give it my best. That decision helped me finish up the day with a 5th place overall pro nitro buggy. I can't express enough on how good my buggy felt all day...Plenty of questions and compliments throughout the day.....

Can't wait for my next race... Hobby Hut raceway! This weekend.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08supermoto (Post 13166153)

It's a sick handling buggy that's for sure, and something a bit different, can't wait for the new tank so I can finish the car and race it

What is a proper way to shim clutchbell? Should it have a freeplay with washer and end screw on? And if yes, how many mm if measued in shim rings?

Quote:

Originally Posted by vandalzzz (Post 13166962)

What is a proper way to shim clutchbell? Should it have a freeplay with washer and end screw on? And if yes, how many mm if measued in shim rings?

There must be some end play. Otherwise it will burn up the bearings. There is no set answer on how many shims due to production differences in cranks. Just shim it so there maybe .5 mm. They tend to loosen up a bit after you run them.