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Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13106879)
All three diff cases have very-very tight fit into metal spur gears. Is it ok, anyone experienced same 'feature'? Should i grind some plastic with sandpaper?
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Originally Posted by FastPete
(Post 13107884)
Noticed the same thing, they do go on just tight. I thought about breaking the edge on the OD.
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Also i've noticed that web manual says go into 5C holes for rear camber link, but printed version has 6D position for this. Which one is correct for 'kit' setup?
And what about drop screws? They're supposed to be downwards in rear arms, and upwards in front arms. |
Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13109255)
Also i've noticed that web manual says go into 5C holes for rear camber link, but printed version has 6D position for this. Which one is correct for 'kit' setup?
And what about drop screws? They're supposed to be downwards in rear arms, and upwards in front arms. Yes the droop screws are reversed in front to get more droop if necessary. |
Originally Posted by teknorc
(Post 13109395)
The setups on the web are newer setups. You could start with one of those rather than the kit setup. Either way, pick one and follow it exactly. Then make changes from there.
Yes the droop screws are reversed in front to get more droop if necessary. About rear droop screws: if they're supposed to be placed heads down, how can i reach their hex sockets after assembling whole buggy? I suppose that they gonna be blocked by the droop pads on the chassis, or i missing something? |
Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13109508)
Thanks for info about setups.
About rear droop screws: if they're supposed to be placed heads down, how can i reach their hex sockets after assembling whole buggy? I suppose that they gonna be blocked by the droop pads on the chassis, or i missing something? |
Originally Posted by JsK
(Post 13109525)
There is a Hex in both ends.
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Yeah the ones in the NB48 don't have a hex in the threaded end. I just adjust mine in small increments by compressing the shocks to get to it
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Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13109589)
Mine in Bag H looks exactly like that (part no. also from manual) and doesn't have any hex on the end of thread section unlike droop screws on my ebuggy, that's why i'm a bit confused.
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Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13109508)
Thanks for info about setups.
About rear droop screws: if they're supposed to be placed heads down, how can i reach their hex sockets after assembling whole buggy? I suppose that they gonna be blocked by the droop pads on the chassis, or i missing something? just lift the arm a bit and the screw head is there |
Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13109589)
Mine in Bag H looks exactly like that (part no. also from manual) and doesn't have any hex on the end of thread section unlike droop screws on my ebuggy, that's why i'm a bit confused.
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Aluminum Axle Update
1 Attachment(s)
I'm swapping out the bearings in my NB and wanted to give an update on the Sylveris RC aluminum axles. I probably have about 2-3 hours of driving on the axles so far and they show no signs of wear or damage.
Attachment 1178682 I'll be heading up to PNB next week and that track can break anything so I'll let you know how they do. |
Just get some Mugen droop screws. You can adjust from either end.
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Originally Posted by Numburn
(Post 13110987)
Just get some Mugen droop screws. You can adjust from either end.
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Originally Posted by Numburn
(Post 13110987)
Just get some Mugen droop screws. You can adjust from either end.
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