Mugen MBX6
#1051
muaythai- I Did a few cartwheels and had some pretty bad en dos and wrecks with no damage yet. All my arms are good. The only issue I see so far with the car is the battery box. If you run a regular battery you may know what I'm talking about. "Its Dependant on how the battery was made too." The battery sits on its side edge and after time from vibration it wears through the shrink wrap down to the wire. The easy solution would be to put a little padding like double side sticky tape in the box on the bottom and lid but the fit is so tight the lid wont go back on. So what i ended up having to do is take the shrink wrap off the battery and replace the wires and route them around the battery instead keeping it off its edges. Otherwise I was pretty fast last week the first time out with the car. Last night I made some changes and went a little slower but it was even easier to drive. Changed some stuff back and found a pretty good setup. I found the droop settings on the setup sheet to me are way off. I ended up about 5 MM less droop all the way around. I found if I tapped the brakes in the corners just at the wrong spot the car would tend to roll over.
#1052
DerrickLong38, I understand your position compleatly. For me it was easier because my old Mugen was not an R but just an early pro-spec. But I have 2 full trays & a big bag of parts for that thing & basicly none of it is on the MBX6 parts list.
#1053
If anyone got Bowties and Proline wheels in their kit that would've liked to have the mugen/crimefighters let me know if you'd like to trade. Would be fine with just trading tires, I have plenty of crimes but could use a set of bow ties.
#1054
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Almost finished building my mbx6, car is such a dream to build, it has so many neat features that the 5r didnt have and it just takes the kit to another level.
A quick question, for the guys running JR servo's(or any larger servo for that matter) Did you have do file out the servo holes?
A quick question, for the guys running JR servo's(or any larger servo for that matter) Did you have do file out the servo holes?
#1056
Anyone running or planning to run the RB filter setup? I have one and was hoping to....
my outer stock filter looks too short
does screwing the air filter to the tank shield do anything but help keep it from falling off?
my outer stock filter looks too short
does screwing the air filter to the tank shield do anything but help keep it from falling off?
#1057
oooo yeah just picked up the second kit for my son. he's gonna be blown away.this car is awesome.
#1058
I would suggest boiling your new arms before building your kit I do this with all my new plastics
I wouldn't think it is anything to worry about though -just bad luck or pure coincidence that they all happened on the same day
#1059
Super Moderator
iTrader: (63)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: a very small town in wisconsin that is in the middle of absolutely no where
Posts: 5,155
Trader Rating: 63 (100%+)
mine are ok yet. i have have some duzzy crashes the last 2 weeks at the tracks i have run on. i heard the pins are a little short. mugen knows about the problem. if yours have brocken give them a call. i dont know if they are going to do anything but it never hurts. they are changing the upper pin for future kits. i still think the x6 is twice the 5r was. very forgiving car. handles very well in the rough blown out tracks. run a 14 tooth clutch bell. smooths the low end out coming out of a corner. doesnt hurt performance. jeremy
#1060
I'm just starting my build. I see the Hughes diff setup is 5-7-2 and the stock setup is 5-5-2. Anyone have some feedback on what they've tried. Thanks.
#1062
Super Moderator
iTrader: (63)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: a very small town in wisconsin that is in the middle of absolutely no where
Posts: 5,155
Trader Rating: 63 (100%+)
i have tried both 5-7-2 and 5-5-2. the 5-5-2 was better on loose tracks. 7 in the middle has good punch. also use a 14-15 tooth clutch bell. it will tame the low end down a little but will not hurt performance. jeremy
#1063
I drove mine for the first time on weds. I am running 5-5-2 in the diffs. I am also running the car on a hardpacked clay track with excellent traction. In this situation the 5-7-2 would be absolutely explosive off the line. The 5-5-2 had more punch with a 13t bell than my buddies brushless 8ight with a high end neu motor. This car is amazing fellas.
#1064
Tech Apprentice
Hi Retro RC,
you said you are boiling all your new plastics. Why? If there are really airbubbles in the plastic due to the manufacturing process you can not change it even if you boil them. And how long you are boiling the plastics 10min?
Thanks in advance
racer_hh
you said you are boiling all your new plastics. Why? If there are really airbubbles in the plastic due to the manufacturing process you can not change it even if you boil them. And how long you are boiling the plastics 10min?
Thanks in advance
racer_hh
In a race meeting on the weekend just past there were three MBX-6's that broke front arms 2 were upper and 1 was a lower arm, all were experienced drivers and the crashes looked minor but all three arms looked like they had small airbubbles in the plastics from the moulding process,
I would suggest boiling your new arms before building your kit I do this with all my new plastics
I wouldn't think it is anything to worry about though -just bad luck or pure coincidence that they all happened on the same day
I would suggest boiling your new arms before building your kit I do this with all my new plastics
I wouldn't think it is anything to worry about though -just bad luck or pure coincidence that they all happened on the same day
#1065
we boil our plastic for our indoor winter season. it gets pretty cold with the vents open for nitro, i've seen ice on the track. anyway bring the water to a boil, put the plastic in for 15 min, and remove.