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Old 10-24-2008, 07:35 PM
  #1081  
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Has anyone tried a Proline low-pro filter foam in the Mugen filter body? They look similar.
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Old 10-24-2008, 08:56 PM
  #1082  
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Hi All,

I am designing an upper plate that replaces the top diff mount for the MBX6 for an electric conversion. The purpose of this tray plate is the following:

* mount a cooling fan above the motor. This system is designed to support both 30x30mm and 40x40mm fans
* mount personal transponder
* mount receiver
* mount ESC
* mount misc. items

YES, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO MOUNT ALL OF THIS WITH MY DESIGN!!!

With this design, you will make your electric conversion simple, neat, and centering your components in the middle of your car.

These pictures are the prelim of the design and will be fabricated in aluminum and possibly carbon fiber. I have not yet determined a price per unit, but I will sometime next week. If there are a lot of interest in this design, I will fabricated across other models of buggies like Xray, Losi, and Kyosho.

Here of some photo's of the prelim design. Please PM if interested in one of these units. I am guestamating I can have them shipped by mid to end of next week.





















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Old 10-24-2008, 09:01 PM
  #1083  
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Originally Posted by Davidka
Has anyone tried a Proline low-pro filter foam in the Mugen filter body? They look similar.
Yep, they fit way better than the mugen one, only ones ill run till powersaver bring their version out.
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Old 10-24-2008, 10:02 PM
  #1084  
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This looks like a good kit but you think overkill for a newbie i really like what is being said about this kit. I have been jumping from jammin 2 rc8 and mugen and even the O'Donnell (499.99 at amainhobbies)
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:11 PM
  #1085  
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Well folks, I dont want to start a p$ssing match or try to say I told you so but I have a proline shift body that I just sprayed and mounted and it fits pretty darn good. I bought 2 of these and after hearing all the negative remarks I chose not to have them painted. My painter gave me my kit body and my 2 shifts back last night and 1 of the shifts was already masked so I figured what the hell. I did cut the body holes first and the front hole is quite a bit off but from what I have read you can rotate the front body post or just simply cut your holes before you paint as I did. Once everything was dry I finished trimming the body and my steering servo does not rub or hit, and my throttle linkage does not hit either while at full brake or wot. I think one of the biggest variables is the type of servo horns you use and how much epa your servos have that will determine if you are going to have issues or not. Only time will tell but so far so good.
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Old 10-25-2008, 12:51 AM
  #1086  
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Default front droop ?

hi, how much droop setting are you guys setting ? my rear am able to get 12mm but my front droop the lowest i can go is 18mm ! thought saw some setup with droop 12mm in the front.

the droop is set with 2 standard size buggy wheels underneath the buggy right ? many thanks..
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Old 10-25-2008, 03:24 AM
  #1087  
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Anyone here notice the rear droop screws are only half touching the chassis ? They are right out on the edge and are half hanging off ?

I just got my X6 Thursday and finished building it today and while looking it over I flipped the car upside down and noticed the rear droop screws are only just catching the edge of the chassis. I think Mugen could have made the chassis just a touch wider in the spot.
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Old 10-25-2008, 03:35 AM
  #1088  
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Originally Posted by clarksib
Without a doubt! Sold my losi 8ight to fund the MBX6 and wont look back.
+1 "Wont look back either!"
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Old 10-25-2008, 07:18 AM
  #1089  
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Has anyone attempted to use MBX5 mud guards and body? I like a JP2 pipe on some of my engines but it probably isn't going to fit under the body.
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Old 10-25-2008, 10:52 AM
  #1090  
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Originally Posted by Davidka
Has anyone attempted to use MBX5 mud guards and body? I like a JP2 pipe on some of my engines but it probably isn't going to fit under the body.
Ive experimented with header pipe combos and found a JP3 pipe with a 2050 header fits perfect in the car and Makes a ton of power with my Speeds.
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Old 10-25-2008, 11:09 AM
  #1091  
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pics of my new x6 bodyshell.
yet to fit in the engine/pipe..

upgrades so far, full titanium screws set A from Mugen..(they even include screws for the 3 diff cases! guess for less rotational mass huh?)
rolling chassis feels light, way more aneroxic than my old x5r..



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Old 10-25-2008, 01:06 PM
  #1092  
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N.e.r.d, car looks good. I remember when I was building my car I kept thinking "man , when is this car going to get heavy? " The new buggy is quite a bit lighter than the old buggy.
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Old 10-25-2008, 01:47 PM
  #1093  
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Why don't you guys take your electric conversions over to the "Electric Off-Road" thread, seems more appropriate. This thread is for Nitro MBX6 cars.
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Old 10-25-2008, 04:29 PM
  #1094  
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Has anyone experimented with a 14t bell? In the mbx6 review done by R/C Car mag they suggest a 14t even on small tracks...Scott Hughes also runs the 14t but I wanted to see if anyone has tried it on rctech first? Anyone?
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Old 10-25-2008, 07:15 PM
  #1095  
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yes a 14t clutch bell helps the x6 out alot. you don't loose any low end. it makes the car easier to drive. might try a 15t when i get a chance to run the car again. jeremy
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