30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Got myself a nice used 6. Yeah the OG. Will start testing after undoing the mess I did with a pin and two shafts, seems they don't go one from another in one pass, and shatter...and a hammer is not enough...and now I have a mbx5r shaft and a mbx6 shaft connected by one pin.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Dude buy yourself a proper Pin Press/chain breaker. They can be had for 30-40$ on ebay.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, I'm going tomorrow to some bike/motorcycle shop see if they have something like this.
I'm liking this car so far,wow much quality.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

THis is exactly what your looking for. Not your link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATV-Bike-Mot...0af544&vxp=mtr

BMenard17

iTrader: (88)

Or do it right with this http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...placement-Tool

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Ive heard Many of pins breaking on some of the Name brand Tools, Ill stick to what's worked for 100's of pins over the years.

And I DO NOT suggest the HUDY, If you think replacing pins with a Hammer is the way to do it, well your sadly mistaken. Hardened pins Can and will shatter if your not careful as you have found out.

BMenard17

iTrader: (88)

My mugen pin tool has worked for years

EJF

iTrader: (41)

get the mugen tool... worth the money, trust me

if you are highly mechanically inclined and willing to modify a chain breaker it does work, but still not as easy as the mugen tool.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Modify what exactly ?

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Perfect! Thanks.

It's going to be hard to get that one, I can get the hudy for an arm though..

In my defense they only shattered when I tried to take one out with one already on another shaft.

Some tools have guides to secure the chain, those have to be dremeled.

I'm going to check them stores now,thanks for all the help.

morgoth

I'm very happy with the Mugen tool. Before I tried other tools and I took me almost an hour to replace all pins. With the Mugen tool I do it in less than 10 minutes.

m2cracing

M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of the MUGEN MBX6
TRUGGY CHASSIS. We have tested this chassis on many different surfaces.
The steel skid plates will extend the life of the chassis and is replacable.
So when you wear down the plates, replace them and you will be back to
the origional thickness. We have found that if you stop the wear before it
get bad then the chassis will last much longer.

http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...?keywords=5350

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Bought a simple chain breaker, have to modify the chain guides and then it's time to undo the mess I did.
Previous owner installed the under-drive gear, I'm eager to drive this thing. BTW I'm starting with the basic setup.

gacjr0

iTrader: (15)

I changed all my axle pins with a 3# hammer and a bicycle chain tool: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CT-5.../dp/B000RZMWE0 easy peasy. gentle tapping and patient pin pressing. Only a few minutes after the first couple.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Time for a initial review.
Today was the third practice session on track to dial a setup and see if any issues pop out. The first and second outing were bad, the car behaved almost like my Kanai 2 but very inconsistent and weird to drive, something was not right. Engine was spot on though. Showed potential on the handling department.
Well after resetting camber and toe, went to mid hole on rear hub and today was a nice 8 minute session. Lost the upper screw on the pipe hanger and engine would die in 5 seconds, car would get upset pretty easy and I assembled the rear right swaybar ball on the wrong side. I'm running 450cps front and 400cps rear with stock pistons, I think it's too thin because my local track is like the 2012 worlds track and Batlle was using 45wt front and 40wt rear.
Track manners are different because of the underdrive but I'm getting accustomed.