curacing2

Get the BCE +3

shaidi khalid

thank guys for the tips

kman16jr

iTrader: (56)

Hey guys im running stock setup on the u.s spec kit and i feel like im lacking rear traction.I do believe it might be the tires i might have used but i also believe i might be able to work on my diff oil setup.So im wondering do any of you guys run the little o-rings in the spider gears or do you run them with out? I'm trying to achieve 5-5-3. I'm going out tomorrow to test different tires but if that doesn't work i might try moving the rear hubs forward. And also i run my battery forward like everyone else here.Any help with would be appreciated.

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

Try 7-10-7 or more rear toe (3 instead of 2.5) or go to 8.5 rear springs. Shorter wheel base will also help with rear traction. The US Spec setup is a good base line, just little changes to suit you better.

I do not run the o-rings in the diffs btw

kman16jr

iTrader: (56)

Ok but if i have tires should i try that first?and how would the rotation be if i used 7-10-7,And i can aslo try the inserts in the rear toe block as well,the springs i dont have so what should i try first?

alwayswin

iTrader: (11)

try 7/7/4 in diffs kevin, i think 7/10/7 will be like a bulldozer. also try same ride height in front and rear. another option is raise camber link on tower in rear.

shanef

iTrader: (38)

You'd want to lower the rear link on the tower to gain more rear grip. Can also try to lay the rear shock over, lighter rear shock oil, longer rear link.

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

Try tires first, 9 times out of 10 it's tires causing the issue. Then inserts... 7-10-7 will let the buggy turn more, the rear will be more possy and it will slide around the turns but square up faster and straight line is hooked. It's also very consistent. A lot think I'm crazy for running it but once they try it they usually love it.

kman16jr

iTrader: (56)

Thanks ill try the tires first and if it doesnt help than ill try the inserts,and if worst comes to worst ill change the diff oils.lol.What about moving the rear hubs more forward?

shaidi khalid

try use the lower holes in the shock tower.the diff oil can effect as well.for me i run 5-7-3 and lighter shock oil..i'll use 350 with 8.5 springs.the outer holes for shocks also helps..but first,try change the tyres dude.

TRF415boy

Hi,

Since no one in the US has any experience with the R-EU chassis, there are only a few people here who can tell you which is better.

I can tell you one thing: if you can get hold of the EU chassis, get it (and don't forget to get the front centre driveshaft to go with it). it's MUCH better than any other chassis out there.

shaidi khalid

thanks dude
i wanted to try both of them
and decide which one is better

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

Shorter wheel base will help a good bit too, all easy things to change at the track. Try all of that before diffs.

mjealey

iTrader: (7)

I think you guys have it backwards. You want to go up on the shock tower to lower the roll center of the buggy. A lower roll center increases rear grip.


http://jq-products.com/the-news/43-t.../160-the-guide


In general, longer links make the car more calm, and gives it more traction, and actually even improves forward bite. Having the links as far in on the shock towers as possible, makes for the most stable car. Raising the link on the tower, has a similar effect of lengthening it, in that it gives more traction.

Short links make a car more responsive, and make it square up better and faster when exiting a corner. It can feel like it has more traction, and ultimately it does, but it is more uneven. The car will have a lot of traction up to a point, and then it will suddenly loose it, spin out or similar, so it won't be as easy to drive. Lowering the link on the tower will have a similar effect, as a shorter link, and will make the car be more responsive, and have less traction.

Numburn

iTrader: (11)

That is the area of setup that really confuses me. According to that raising the camber link on the tower increases sidebite. So you would think that using the upper hole on the hubs would (decreasing space between arm and link) would have the same effect. Yet, from what I understand using the lower hole on the hubs gives more sidebite. The only reasoning I can come up for this is that changing the bottom hole on the hubs is changing leverage at the pivot point on the lower arm... very confusing.