jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

Try tires first, 9 times out of 10 it's tires causing the issue. Then inserts... 7-10-7 will let the buggy turn more, the rear will be more possy and it will slide around the turns but square up faster and straight line is hooked. It's also very consistent. A lot think I'm crazy for running it but once they try it they usually love it.

kman16jr

iTrader: (56)

Thanks ill try the tires first and if it doesnt help than ill try the inserts,and if worst comes to worst ill change the diff oils.lol.What about moving the rear hubs more forward?

shaidi khalid

try use the lower holes in the shock tower.the diff oil can effect as well.for me i run 5-7-3 and lighter shock oil..i'll use 350 with 8.5 springs.the outer holes for shocks also helps..but first,try change the tyres dude.

TRF415boy

Hi,

Since no one in the US has any experience with the R-EU chassis, there are only a few people here who can tell you which is better.

I can tell you one thing: if you can get hold of the EU chassis, get it (and don't forget to get the front centre driveshaft to go with it). it's MUCH better than any other chassis out there.

shaidi khalid

thanks dude
i wanted to try both of them
and decide which one is better

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

Shorter wheel base will help a good bit too, all easy things to change at the track. Try all of that before diffs.

mjealey

iTrader: (7)

I think you guys have it backwards. You want to go up on the shock tower to lower the roll center of the buggy. A lower roll center increases rear grip.


http://jq-products.com/the-news/43-t.../160-the-guide


In general, longer links make the car more calm, and gives it more traction, and actually even improves forward bite. Having the links as far in on the shock towers as possible, makes for the most stable car. Raising the link on the tower, has a similar effect of lengthening it, in that it gives more traction.

Short links make a car more responsive, and make it square up better and faster when exiting a corner. It can feel like it has more traction, and ultimately it does, but it is more uneven. The car will have a lot of traction up to a point, and then it will suddenly loose it, spin out or similar, so it won't be as easy to drive. Lowering the link on the tower will have a similar effect, as a shorter link, and will make the car be more responsive, and have less traction.

Numburn

iTrader: (11)

That is the area of setup that really confuses me. According to that raising the camber link on the tower increases sidebite. So you would think that using the upper hole on the hubs would (decreasing space between arm and link) would have the same effect. Yet, from what I understand using the lower hole on the hubs gives more sidebite. The only reasoning I can come up for this is that changing the bottom hole on the hubs is changing leverage at the pivot point on the lower arm... very confusing.

merdith6

iTrader: (3)

You are correct.

I have tried several things to improve rear traction with the agressive low speed steering I have that I want to keep. Most of the adjustments to improve rear grip is at the expense of low speed steering. for example, more caster makes the car less twichy but gives too much on power for my driving style. I dids move the rear hubs forward but only the smallest spacer width because too much makes the car drive funny.

Moving the upper link higher on the tower is the conclusion i came to for increasing sidebite too, have not tried it yet.

JamminSP

iTrader: (7)

REAR UPPER CAMBER LINK - SHOCKTOWER
EFFECT ON REAR ROLL CENTER

Upper holes • Lower rear roll center
Lower holes • Higher rear roll center

REAR ROLL CENTER CHARACTERISTICS
Higher
• Increases on-power traction
• Use to avoid traction rolling at corner entry
• Use under low-traction conditions

Lower
• Decreases rear traction into corner
• Increases steering into corner
• Use to avoid traction rolling mid-corner and corner exit

REAR UPPER CAMBER LINK -LENGTH CHARACTERISTICS

Shorter link (outer hole on tower and/or inner hole on hub)

• Increases steering and decreases
stability into corner
• Increases on-power traction slightly

Longer link (inner hole on tower and/or outer hole on hub)
• Decreases rear camber gain
• Increases stability
• Slows down the car‘s responsiveness

Chris-s

Anyone know what air filter battle is running here:

Rock333

iTrader: (51)

It is from Pro-Line. Good luck finding one. Been looking for them every where with no luck.

shaidi khalid

robert battle use ultimate racing air filter
im using it


Mugen Seiki Malaysia / Ninja / oddonell' / Sweep Racing / Max Racing Products / Muchmore / Sanwa

Motorman007

iTrader: (89)

http://www.modelixracing.com/en/comp...ilter?sef=hcfp

tobatoci

Hi guys..

i am new to mugen world. 3 month old and addicted to lightweight rotating part.
my first my upgrade is
Acer ceramic bearing kit for mbx6, E0242 & E0243 on the front only. after tested few round and found i do really like this stuff.. less rotating mass. then i go buy another for the rear..

now im looking fiber disk to replace steel disk that can fit on to the join cup..

has any one here have try fiber disk? what fiber disk can fit on my mugen and does its work perfect?

tried find at nearest LHS but couldnt found the disk fit on mugen

Thanks..