3LikesMugen MBX6
04-08-2014, 03:16 AM
05-01-2014, 06:19 PM
Good news, I'm liking the MBX6.
Only two big bummers, the limited manifold space and the radio box covers.
I'll try the Werks manifold for the MBX6 but the radio box covers using screws to hold down is getting annoying. No issues about the handling and wear.
Only two big bummers, the limited manifold space and the radio box covers.
I'll try the Werks manifold for the MBX6 but the radio box covers using screws to hold down is getting annoying. No issues about the handling and wear.
05-06-2014, 07:28 PM
Tech Regular
Hi guys,
Happy to read that few people are still using the MBX6R . I am still using the US edition one and still very happy about this buggy.
i am running the buggy stock (and sometimes using the Black Shock springs) and racing a lot with this car . Easy to setup , very tough and i can enjoy a racing week end without any headache.
Bought few months ago a MBX7 but i dont really like it and a bit too tedious to achieve a decent setup.
Cheers
Happy to read that few people are still using the MBX6R . I am still using the US edition one and still very happy about this buggy.
i am running the buggy stock (and sometimes using the Black Shock springs) and racing a lot with this car . Easy to setup , very tough and i can enjoy a racing week end without any headache.
Bought few months ago a MBX7 but i dont really like it and a bit too tedious to achieve a decent setup.
Cheers
05-07-2014, 03:39 AM
Looking good Desertstorm and I agree with you 
05-07-2014, 06:32 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
I got a used '6 back in Sept. Have ran it a lot recently, beat the crap out of it. Took it to Psyco this year and ran at our new track (S&B RC Raceway). This thing has been a rock. I've had two issues.
1. Screws in rear diff loosend and lost all fluid. Didn't seem to hurt the gears.
2. Last race runs great until I refuel then will die. Even after reving it and clearing it before putting back on track. In last week's b-main - died right at start, pit man got it started back up but it put me in 10th. Worked my way up to 5th, came in for fuel then died, got it back to pits, started, died back on track. Wasn't too hot and was running like a champ until then.
1. Screws in rear diff loosend and lost all fluid. Didn't seem to hurt the gears.
2. Last race runs great until I refuel then will die. Even after reving it and clearing it before putting back on track. In last week's b-main - died right at start, pit man got it started back up but it put me in 10th. Worked my way up to 5th, came in for fuel then died, got it back to pits, started, died back on track. Wasn't too hot and was running like a champ until then.
05-07-2014, 07:17 AM
Check to make sure that there is enough play in the driveline. If there is binding that might be hurting it. Also check your clutch so that it isn't sticking.
05-07-2014, 10:10 AM
I'm still running the 6r but it's more about being poor than wanting another buggy. That being said, the 6R is the better than I am so getting another buggy really wouldn't do me much good anyway.
FWIW, I've also had the flame-out issue after pitting and it's very frustrating. Last race (and my best effort to date) it did it twice, both times I came into re-fuel.
Dennis
FWIW, I've also had the flame-out issue after pitting and it's very frustrating. Last race (and my best effort to date) it did it twice, both times I came into re-fuel.
Dennis
05-07-2014, 12:10 PM
Flaming after a fuel stop is more than likely due to being too rich on the bottom.
05-07-2014, 12:51 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
05-17-2014, 04:02 AM
Tech Apprentice
Happy new owner of a mbx6 buggy, any recommendations? Never had a mugen before!
05-17-2014, 07:00 AM
Ive been away!
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
05-17-2014, 02:15 PM
Hey guys. I have what I believe to be is a mbx6 eco m spec. I would like to get it to run nitro if I can. Is the chassis the same on both cars? Can I just buy a engine mount, tank and radio box and make it a nitro? Thanks guys.
Btw if anyone has spare shock bodies for the front please pm I want to buy 1. It's the damper casing.
Btw if anyone has spare shock bodies for the front please pm I want to buy 1. It's the damper casing.
05-17-2014, 02:31 PM
Tech Apprentice
Ive been away!
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
I picked it up rtr with good servos for 170€ (sanwa m8, mbx6 with some upgrades, tires, titan mg digi4 for steering and a futaba servo for throttle, oh and the icing on the cake a barely used ninja b01 with a ninja pipe) so i will be trying it out probably next weekend! Any advice on setup?
05-18-2014, 02:48 AM
Happy to report that this past Sunday my car behaved very well and 5 drivers asked if they could do some laps with my car. Everyone had a blast, thing is unreal! Setup is basic setup with these changes:
K light blue rear spring,600cps front and 550cps rear and sworkz gold front and rear ARBs. Still using the underdrive.
Very willing to turn, doesn't get upset unless you flick the rear end violently, is responsive and agile bordering on nervous for those that are not accustomed. Only minor thing I saw was bump steer on compression, lot's of it. Any pointers to get rid of it?
K light blue rear spring,600cps front and 550cps rear and sworkz gold front and rear ARBs. Still using the underdrive.
Very willing to turn, doesn't get upset unless you flick the rear end violently, is responsive and agile bordering on nervous for those that are not accustomed. Only minor thing I saw was bump steer on compression, lot's of it. Any pointers to get rid of it?
05-18-2014, 04:27 PM
Ive been away!
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
Yap, Kyosho light blue springs.
