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Mugen MBX6

Old 05-07-2014, 12:51 PM
  #18481  
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Originally Posted by Maxxed-out
Flaming after a fuel stop is more than likely due to being too rich on the bottom.
Well, that is easy to adjust and test out.

Will let you know if that fixes the issue.
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Old 05-17-2014, 04:02 AM
  #18482  
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Happy new owner of a mbx6 buggy, any recommendations? Never had a mugen before!
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:00 AM
  #18483  
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Ive been away!
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
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Old 05-17-2014, 02:15 PM
  #18484  
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Hey guys. I have what I believe to be is a mbx6 eco m spec. I would like to get it to run nitro if I can. Is the chassis the same on both cars? Can I just buy a engine mount, tank and radio box and make it a nitro? Thanks guys.

Btw if anyone has spare shock bodies for the front please pm I want to buy 1. It's the damper casing.
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Old 05-17-2014, 02:31 PM
  #18485  
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Originally Posted by RushDL
Ive been away!
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
Thanks for the input Rush, atm im running a serpent 2.0 buggy as a main race car and my dad is running an hyper 7 upgraded as its pretty durable for what he does (bashing and some track time) so im used to good kits, just never had a mugen due to the cost (even on used ones) here in Portugal.
I picked it up rtr with good servos for 170 (sanwa m8, mbx6 with some upgrades, tires, titan mg digi4 for steering and a futaba servo for throttle, oh and the icing on the cake a barely used ninja b01 with a ninja pipe) so i will be trying it out probably next weekend! Any advice on setup?
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:48 AM
  #18486  
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth
Happy to report that this past Sunday my car behaved very well and 5 drivers asked if they could do some laps with my car. Everyone had a blast, thing is unreal! Setup is basic setup with these changes:
K light blue rear spring,600cps front and 550cps rear and sworkz gold front and rear ARBs. Still using the underdrive.
Very willing to turn, doesn't get upset unless you flick the rear end violently, is responsive and agile bordering on nervous for those that are not accustomed. Only minor thing I saw was bump steer on compression, lot's of it. Any pointers to get rid of it?
What is a "K light blue rear spring"? Kyosho? What springs fit the MBX6? I got a MBX6 nitro version alongside my electric, looking forward to racing it
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Old 05-18-2014, 04:27 PM
  #18487  
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Originally Posted by RushDL
Ive been away!
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
Thank you sir, is that part # Novarossi?

Originally Posted by UrabusDenis
What is a "K light blue rear spring"? Kyosho? What springs fit the MBX6? I got a MBX6 nitro version alongside my electric, looking forward to racing it
Shhhh! Don't say that K word around here
Yap, Kyosho light blue springs.
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:47 PM
  #18488  
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OK, I understand, I will watch my language

So the K springs fit the MBX6 without problems, both front and rear? That is nice to know, but those springs are even more expensive than Mugen ones, so I think I will get some original ones instead. I am looking for some spring options, anyone knows which (from other cars) fit?
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:19 AM
  #18489  
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If not mistaken every big bore spring fits, I just had those K springs laying around so tried them.
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Old 05-20-2014, 04:53 AM
  #18490  
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@RushDL

Yeah, diff blew out again this weekend, all fluid came back out after running for about 3 minutes. Had to borrow one from someone else to run the main.

Going to order a whole new assembly.

I think bottom end was rich on the engine. Had to get my nitro had back on - it has been a long time since I did nitro, just getting back into it since I got the '6.
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Old 05-20-2014, 06:19 AM
  #18491  
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Originally Posted by MunchMunch
@RushDL

Yeah, diff blew out again this weekend, all fluid came back out after running for about 3 minutes. Had to borrow one from someone else to run the main.

Going to order a whole new assembly.

I think bottom end was rich on the engine. Had to get my nitro had back on - it has been a long time since I did nitro, just getting back into it since I got the '6.
Hello, quite strange and never have this issue with my MBX6R. As recommended you should use 2mm longer screews for the Diff (I always do).

For the past 3 years i have tried many buggy brands and totally agree with RushDL@ out of the box this car is ready for racing . The only option i am using is regarding the shock springs and use sometimes the black one according some tracks.

Last 2 weeks , 2 races with the buggy with pretty much no maintenance in between and can reach and race 1 hour amain without any issue with the buggy. manage for a podium (3rd) and 9th (Radio box switch issue, i know i should not use such bloody switch lol).

just finish to service the buggy and even after 4 days of racing + 1 full day off practice jjust refill a bit bit the diff and change the schock oil thats all and the buggy is ready for another race;

If you are looking for a decent buggy with an affordable budget this is a winner for sure.

my 2 cents

Cheers
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:13 PM
  #18492  
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My MBX6R US edition in action during last race Amain (Finish 9th)





My good friend MBX6R during the Same race



The track :




It is a real pleasure to drive it.

My setup :

5/5/3 for the diffs
46T / 13T for gears
Shocks : 450/400 with 5 holes 1.35 black springs (10.7, 9.5)
Aka Impact
Alpha Lutz + 2081 pipe

Of course i am sure this kind of setup suit me mostly but the buggy was really easy to drive .

Cheers
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Old 05-30-2014, 07:00 AM
  #18493  
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I have some parts for sale if anyone is interested. chassis, shock bodies w/caps, FR Graphite towers, steering assembly.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...is-shocks.html

Dennis
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Old 06-01-2014, 02:37 PM
  #18494  
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Do the MBX7 front hubs make that much of a difference on the 6?
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:46 PM
  #18495  
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hi,
I have mbx6r, I would like to buy engine, I'm thinking about the novarossi engines, but I don't know which one, I have about 150 for the engine.
And i don't have clutch, and really don't know which is good for the mugen.
thank you for any helping.
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