hyper7vspec

iTrader: (9)

Yep your right on the money Exactly what i meant.

mOOgo_davo

Well its not really gravel on top it mixed in with the clay, which I think is weird as well. And the gravel is sharp small piece's and really shreds tires fast too. It is a new track here locally that the city helped build, so we really can't complain too much. We are in the process of trying to sift all the gravel out in the next few weeks.

jpz_67

iTrader: (57)

I am runnin 773 and it is pretty dialed. I will try 753 when the traction is not that great, but so far 773 is pretty good. I just dont like running 5k in the front unless the track is very tight and I have to have sharp off power steering. I really like to stay in the throttle in the turns and I find 7k lets me do this, it also pulls better mid corner and exit. I cant really complain about the off power steering either as the car will carve sharp 180's no problem.

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

When I get my MBX6 soon, I will have to have 2 different diffs for the front! I will run 753 on the Nitro Traveling Series.. And then have an extra front 5k dif for my home track that has tight, short turns and such.

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

5-5-5 has been working really well for me.

thuren

I'm at 5-7-3 right now, but I think I will like 5-7-5 and stay there. My car has MUCH more steering with the 5k front compared to when I had 7k in there. On super high bite tracks the front diff weight didn't change a thing, but once you got off in the little marbles 7k would push hard coming in or coasting through. I think it really depends on your track surface and conditions..

JHN1

has anybody tried 5-7-2 and does anybody have a good set up revelation
raceway

thanks

Sprinkler

iTrader: (28)

7, 5, 4 has been the best for me and my driving style. That is one of the biggest factors with the diff setups. Driving style has more to do with the setup then anything. Just because joe blow likes 775 or john doe says 555 has been the best, you need to try the different setup out for yourself to see what you like best. That is what I have had to do and its taken a couple months of trying different things before I finally got it right.

JayL

to replace the front upper arm rear mount with the alum one, what screws do I need to remove, just the 2 in the mount?

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

The Mugen Al piece uses the same bolts with nuts underneath. Just take the screws out the stock part and then remove the top graphite plate. Swap the part out and reinstall. The M2C part has threading in it, so no nuts are used underneath to hold it in place. I used bolts that were 2mm longer I believe with the M2C part, but I have to check to make sure.

JHN1

sorry to change the subject but i just purchased jr servos 9100t and 9100s
but i am having trouble putting them in the radio tray its really tight without
the plastic bars. can i put them on the tray without the plastic parts or should i file the tray.

thanks

porkchop

what platice parts are you talking about? the part that gose on the servo form jr?

slidejob26

iTrader: (3)

I am running the same servos and I did not file anything, they fit fine.

JHN1

no the little plastic part that looks like a block but has a little lip and it comes in different thickness for differnt servos comes with the kit

thanks

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

Those pieces are to lift the different sized servos off the chassis, and also to make the linkages level from the center diff area and from the servo saver. So there is less binding when the servo's are working/chassis flexing.