Tamiya TT02 Thread
#3166
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 27
Here's my 2nd run. Found a nice dusty parking lot. She feels quicker here than at home. Also, forgive the crash. Distracted and driving with one hand. Don't drive distracted.
Still the same setup. 23-turn motor, stock ESC, 20t pinion, 68t spur.
Still the same setup. 23-turn motor, stock ESC, 20t pinion, 68t spur.
#3169
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
The main purpose of submerging a motor during a wet break-in is to subject the motor to significant drag, so the motor will have to work extremely hard for an extended period of time. The significant drag limits the motor's speed, which reduces the magnetic flux inside the can. The reduced magnetic flux is unable to generate as much inductive resistance in the armature coils as it normally would if the motor were spinning freely. The lower resistance allows the battery to push more amperage through the motor, and because that amperage is being pushed through a very tiny contact area between the brand-new brushes and the commutator, the contacting surfaces of the brushes get extremely hot and start to disintegrate. This accelerates the break-in process by an order of magnitude -- but it can also destroy soft brushes in a matter of seconds, as I and many other people have discovered over the years. A wet break-in is only useful (or safe) for motors with extremely hard brushes that would take an extremely long time to break-in without the continuous drag of running underwater. For brushed motors with softer brushes, a few full-throttle accelerations will put enough load on the motor to break-in the brushes, and then the commutator can be cleaned with electronics cleaner spray.
Regarding brush debris: Submerging the motor in water allows brush debris to be washed away instantly by the churning water inside the motor, whereas applying a few drops of water directly to the brushes just causes the debris to form a grinding paste that stays on the brushes. That's why the brushes broke-in so quickly for you. If it works, it works, but there's a significant risk of the brushes being damaged by so much abrasive material in such a small area.
(source for magnetic flux explanation: John Rob Holmes of Holmes Hobbies LLC)
Regarding brush debris: Submerging the motor in water allows brush debris to be washed away instantly by the churning water inside the motor, whereas applying a few drops of water directly to the brushes just causes the debris to form a grinding paste that stays on the brushes. That's why the brushes broke-in so quickly for you. If it works, it works, but there's a significant risk of the brushes being damaged by so much abrasive material in such a small area.
(source for magnetic flux explanation: John Rob Holmes of Holmes Hobbies LLC)
The one I wore in by a few full throttle runs destroyed the comm. It was toast even after cleaning it off. Chunks of brush missing and comm scored to hell.
I'm extremely familiar with motors and electronics, I used to repair Telecom Infrastructure Boards from across the US and most of the world. The company I worked for also had a DJI drone repair department.
I can swap motors out and compare the two back to back in the same TT02. Whenever I get around to it lol.
#3174
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 537
From: N/A
Yes, the 50mm are the ones to go with for TT02. I would recommend using the Tamiya o-rings. You'll likely have to sand down the plastic shaft guide a bit to keep it from binding.
#3175
https://www.tamiyausa.com/search/?q=54634
Here are specific parts numbers and links...
54632 - carbon front damper stay (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...-stay-front-3/)
54633 - carbon rear damper stay (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...per-stay-rear/)
54634 - type s suspension mount set (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...sus-mount-set/)
54636 - type s front mount (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...eel-sus-mount/)
54637 - type s rear mount (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...l-sus-mount-2/)
54638 - rebound stopper (for droop) - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...bound-stopper/
Stock parts for the TT-02 Type S kit #58600 that are Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP) (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...s-chassis-kit/)
4305646 - front damper stay (for kit #58600) - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-dig...er-stay-58600/
4305647 - rear damper stay (for kit #58600) - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-dig...er-stay-58600/
I am currently in the process of rebuilding/upgrading my TT-02D Type-S kit and I have been able to find most of the parts I needed through TamiyaUSA.com Amazon, ebay, or various online stores. Some parts can be difficult to find so also consider looking at aftermarket companies such as Yeah Racing that offer decent/affordable upgrade parts of the TT-02. Here are some links
https://www.yeahracing.com/rc-car-pa...de-hopup-parts
https://www.yeahracing.com/rc-car-pa...e-hop-up-parts
https://www.yeahracing.com/yeah-raci...t-s04-00106044
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If you can find/buy a TT-02 Type S kit, here are some links so you can compare the differences (note these kits are discontinued)
#58600 - TT-02 Type-S - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...s-chassis-kit/
#47301 - TT-02D Type-S - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...it/drift-spec/
#47439 - TT-02 Type-SR - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...sis-kit/tt-02/
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If you are looking for some reviews and builds of Tamiya kits, check out THERCRACER.com. Here are some links you might find useful.
https://www.thercracer.com/2018/08/5...ld-review.html
https://www.thercracer.com/2015/09/t...build-and.html
https://www.thercracer.com/search?q=tt02
#3176
Tech Master
iTrader: (73)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,029
From: Miami, FL
The Tamiya universal option (53792) are going to be the nicest, but they are costlier and it appears mostly out-of-stock, in the US at least. The Yeah Racing universals are decent, available, and not quite as costly. The part number is YEA-TT02-015. You'll need to use their drive cups as well for the diff, which I think is YEA-TATT-017, but I would double check.
Yes, the 50mm are the ones to go with for TT02. I would recommend using the Tamiya o-rings. You'll likely have to sand down the plastic shaft guide a bit to keep it from binding.
Yes, the 50mm are the ones to go with for TT02. I would recommend using the Tamiya o-rings. You'll likely have to sand down the plastic shaft guide a bit to keep it from binding.
#3177
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
I used the Yeah Racing combo listed. The drive cups are a little on the soft side. Some bashing on 4000kv brushless and 3s has indented some of them where the drive pin meets the cup. Still holding up fine though for almost a year of hard bashing. I've broken the universals, But not the cups.
#3178
Tech Rookie
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 19
I appreciate your help all.
I guess I'll have to go with Yeah by default. I've never been satisfied with the materials they use, but in the past I've had some luck hardening other manufacturers parts. Depending on the steel they use I might get lucky.
I guess I'll have to go with Yeah by default. I've never been satisfied with the materials they use, but in the past I've had some luck hardening other manufacturers parts. Depending on the steel they use I might get lucky.
#3179
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida





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