Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
#8763
Tech Initiate
I saw it, but we are in the middle of the season here in Hugary, and there isn't any weight limit in the 23T class (just Tamiya cars, carbon chassis not allowed). So the most popular car in the class is TA-05. In the next summer I gonna buy some weight
#8765
Tech Apprentice
Here's Wednesday nights results for 13.5 and GT3
Last edited by wskent51; 03-05-2011 at 01:15 PM.
#8766
you will still feel the difference in handling if you do the simple IFS upgrade, more weight is moved off the front wheels and front suspension arms so the difference is easy to pick up
#8767
Hi all,
had my maiden ride with the TA05 (Ferrari Fxx) friday night indoor in a very short (20sec) and slippery track we use for drifting with stock motors (before i had a TL01 with long suspension arms with which i was very confident and competitive).
I was using stock setup, stock rubber tires, trf shocks with 40wt oil, 2holes piston in front, 3holes piston in rear, yellow spring all around. The car felt very sluggish. It was so planted that the only way i could make the rear end swing was to turn all the way to the left (or right) and got full throttle.
My TL01, with soft foam tires, felt more nimble and agile...
Friday i had some problems with my radio gear so i could not test the TA05 with the same tires i was using on the TL01.
Could the tension of the belts affect the car handling and performance? I found out that my belts were skipping. Under stress i could hear a clicking noise. In the beginning i though it was due to the dogbones during hard turns, so i reduced the epa of the steering servo til 70%, but the noise continued and i could not work out tight turns anymore... How can i find the right belt tension?
Any suggestion would be very appreciated.
By the way, i don't know if this has been asked before, but is there a way to squeeze a MambaMax in a TA05 without chassis modification?
Thanks.
Mattia.
had my maiden ride with the TA05 (Ferrari Fxx) friday night indoor in a very short (20sec) and slippery track we use for drifting with stock motors (before i had a TL01 with long suspension arms with which i was very confident and competitive).
I was using stock setup, stock rubber tires, trf shocks with 40wt oil, 2holes piston in front, 3holes piston in rear, yellow spring all around. The car felt very sluggish. It was so planted that the only way i could make the rear end swing was to turn all the way to the left (or right) and got full throttle.
My TL01, with soft foam tires, felt more nimble and agile...
Friday i had some problems with my radio gear so i could not test the TA05 with the same tires i was using on the TL01.
Could the tension of the belts affect the car handling and performance? I found out that my belts were skipping. Under stress i could hear a clicking noise. In the beginning i though it was due to the dogbones during hard turns, so i reduced the epa of the steering servo til 70%, but the noise continued and i could not work out tight turns anymore... How can i find the right belt tension?
Any suggestion would be very appreciated.
By the way, i don't know if this has been asked before, but is there a way to squeeze a MambaMax in a TA05 without chassis modification?
Thanks.
Mattia.
#8768
Help Needed
I had a problem with my TA 05 R not having any grip at the back
I shortened the rear camber link and changed it from being parallel to being more angled to the arm. Car sticks now at the back but have no steering as the car pushes. DR 100%!!
Set up is as follows
3mm droop all round,
white/yelllow springs front, white/red at the back
3 hole pistons with 40 oil front and 30 back
Yellow swaybar front / red back
2mm camber all round
Tamiya BZ Motor
Tamiya B3 tyres, medium insert
How can I get more steering without loosing back grip?
I shortened the rear camber link and changed it from being parallel to being more angled to the arm. Car sticks now at the back but have no steering as the car pushes. DR 100%!!
Set up is as follows
3mm droop all round,
white/yelllow springs front, white/red at the back
3 hole pistons with 40 oil front and 30 back
Yellow swaybar front / red back
2mm camber all round
Tamiya BZ Motor
Tamiya B3 tyres, medium insert
How can I get more steering without loosing back grip?
#8769
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Re: Help
Have you tried no sway bar on the front? That could make the front a little softer and give you more steering, standing up the shocks as well might help, softening front springs, all can help with steering.
My trouble when I go to rubber tires is I have tonnes of steering, but no rear grip. So I'll have to try what you did with the camber link.
I have one question, I've been racing my 05 for over a year, indoor foams, and outdoor rubber. This weekend it started making a horrible noise like I was killing my spur gear or something. I took it off the track checked my gear mesh, belt tension, and all was good. In the A main the sound returned, I just kept driving and the sound would come and go, someone suggested I could have a bearing gone. What bearings are usually the first to go?
My trouble when I go to rubber tires is I have tonnes of steering, but no rear grip. So I'll have to try what you did with the camber link.
I have one question, I've been racing my 05 for over a year, indoor foams, and outdoor rubber. This weekend it started making a horrible noise like I was killing my spur gear or something. I took it off the track checked my gear mesh, belt tension, and all was good. In the A main the sound returned, I just kept driving and the sound would come and go, someone suggested I could have a bearing gone. What bearings are usually the first to go?
#8770
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
I was out at a local parking lot today bashing my 05R with a friend. We had some cones set up and all, it was some good fun. However I got going too fast and a concrete curb jumped into my way! Anyways I broke the right rear upright and broke the suspension arm too. Surprisingly it ran fine until I took it in and saw that it was broken.
#8772
When I swapped over to lipo, to acheive a good weight balance, the MM ESC and the receiver have been moved over the other side and mounted on the CF battery strap. Quite Nice, free up some space to cool the motor.
#8773
I had a problem with my TA 05 R not having any grip at the back
I shortened the rear camber link and changed it from being parallel to being more angled to the arm. Car sticks now at the back but have no steering as the car pushes. DR 100%!!
Set up is as follows
3mm droop all round,
white/yelllow springs front, white/red at the back
3 hole pistons with 40 oil front and 30 back
Yellow swaybar front / red back
2mm camber all round
Tamiya BZ Motor
Tamiya B3 tyres, medium insert
How can I get more steering without loosing back grip?
I shortened the rear camber link and changed it from being parallel to being more angled to the arm. Car sticks now at the back but have no steering as the car pushes. DR 100%!!
Set up is as follows
3mm droop all round,
white/yelllow springs front, white/red at the back
3 hole pistons with 40 oil front and 30 back
Yellow swaybar front / red back
2mm camber all round
Tamiya BZ Motor
Tamiya B3 tyres, medium insert
How can I get more steering without loosing back grip?
To increase front grip/reduce rear grip you need to do the following
- soften front sway bar/stiffen rear sway bar
- soften front springs/stiffen rear springs
- Move front shock mount points inboard (upper or lower point to soften front end)/move rear shock mount points outboard (upper or lower point to stiffen rear end)
If you stand a shock up more, it will stiffen it. If you move the shock further outboard it will also stiffen it.
The distinction between spring rate and wheel rate is important. Spring rate is obvious and wheel rate is the pounds per inch you see at the tire and it is always less than the spring rate. Wheel rate is affected by the spring rate and the upper and lower shock mounting points.
Anything that makes the front or rear of a car stiffer (stiffer roll bar, stiffer springs, move the shock outboard, stand the shock up more) will give that end less grip and the other end more grip.
This happens because as, for example, the front of the car is stiffened, more weight transfer occurs at that end (and less occurs at the other end). This means that the outside tire on the front is taking more load and the inside tire takes less load. As the outside tire takes more load, it deforms more. The more a tire deforms, the more grip it has, but it is not linear. The more it deforms the less efficiently it grips, so overall grip at the front decreases. The opposite happens at the rear. So we have less front grip, more rear grip and the car understeers or pushes.
So to get more grip at one end of a car, soften that end, or stiffen the other end.
This also applies to transition handling. For example if you have very heavy shock oil in the front, the car will understeer on turn in.
#8774
#8775
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I had a problem with my TA 05 R not having any grip at the back
I shortened the rear camber link and changed it from being parallel to being more angled to the arm. Car sticks now at the back but have no steering as the car pushes. DR 100%!!
Set up is as follows
3mm droop all round,
white/yelllow springs front, white/red at the back
3 hole pistons with 40 oil front and 30 back
Yellow swaybar front / red back
2mm camber all round
Tamiya BZ Motor
Tamiya B3 tyres, medium insert
How can I get more steering without loosing back grip?
I shortened the rear camber link and changed it from being parallel to being more angled to the arm. Car sticks now at the back but have no steering as the car pushes. DR 100%!!
Set up is as follows
3mm droop all round,
white/yelllow springs front, white/red at the back
3 hole pistons with 40 oil front and 30 back
Yellow swaybar front / red back
2mm camber all round
Tamiya BZ Motor
Tamiya B3 tyres, medium insert
How can I get more steering without loosing back grip?