Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Now more then ever I plan to whoop Solara with a stock TA05 car I built the night before!!!

Aluma

iTrader: (1)

LOL!!! So thats what the whole thing was about! Nexus, I wish you luck man. It'd be nice to ebay off all those cars...

g12314

iTrader: (6)

You mean after I gave you my setup your car is good.. LOL

Juan Valdez

iTrader: (1)

Jimmy, care to share that setup with the class? I'm hoping to make it to Winthrop Harbor this weekend to "re-aquint" myself with the TA05 and try my new brushless system. I'm gonna need all the help I can get.

Chuck

g12314

iTrader: (6)

Chuck,

I'll get one written up and share, no problem. I hope to make it Saturday to the track for some more testing. I need to repair the melted rear diff in the car to get it back in action.

Anyone else ever had that problem? Rear diff MELTED, and became a spool using a 13.5 brushless Lipo combo in my TA05R. I have weight added to the battery side to keep it on 4 wheels through the high speed sweepers, but I suspect that the rear was still lifting and spinning the diff under full power.

Jimmy

Juan Valdez

iTrader: (1)

Cool! Thanks, Jimmy. I'll try the set up I just put on the car first, but its always nice to have other ideas to try.

What's melting on your diffs, the pulley or the outdrives or both? If this is a common issue, maybe the aluminum outdrives would help.

Are you running any front arm sweep (inboard toe-out)? It seems that can cause the front end to dive real hard in some corners, causing the inside rear tire to pick up and your rear end to diff out. I've never melted a diff this way, though, but it killed corner speed when it happened.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Usually a diff will melt if it is slipping. If the rear wheel lifted up then it would diff-out and the side in the air would just spin and the side touching wouldn't be going anywhere.

Sometimes the diff screw loosens up or the thrust bearing gets sticky to where the diff loosens.

We used to have that problem many years ago before slippers were used in 2wd off-road and we would set the diff just on the edge of loose.

g12314

iTrader: (6)

I run B / A up front so 0.5 degree's of "sweep". It is the outdrives which melted, the pully is fine.

I check my diffs before each run, so I know when I started the run it was not slipping. The screw, spring, nut, and thrust bearing all came out fine. Car is now sporting a front one-way and Aluminum rear diff, so hopefully the issue was a one time event.

bviktor

Hi,

I race with my TA-05 in the 23T class (only tamiya 23T motors are allowed).
I think the best upgrade in the 23T class, the front one-way. It gives you more steering, but it also gives you less brake, but it doesn't matter because in the 23T class the speed is low enough, and you don't have to brake.
We used to drive in very technical track, with a lot of curves and all the guys use front one-way (someone use center also, like me) and it is always faster than these spool or diff-diif. Coming out from a curve, the front one-way behave like a spool.
I don't suggest the CF chassis, beacuse on the carpet you may have problem with the statical electricity and it can easily effects radio problems.
TRF schocks is also good idea, beacuse it is smoother than the stock ones.

over gear

iTrader: (18)

anyone know where i can get a stiffer diff spring? i'm using the optional alloy diff and it slip at full lock. balls are new, the rings are new.

bviktor

I had this problem 3 months ago. If you put 1 or 1,5mm shimm betwen the 2 diff bearings it will solve your problem. I had this problem with the high precision diff joints.
I use alloy diff joints since 2 months with 501X ball diff plate and with 16!! ceramic balls and my diff is very smooth and accurate.

The stiffer diff spring will not solve the problem, cause of the problem is that the pulley is too wide.

over gear

iTrader: (18)

thanks for the reply

I already have a 0.5mm shim per instruction... do u add another 1mm or 1.5mm shim in the diff?

bviktor

There are 2 ways to solve this problem. First is you add more shim between the beraings, but I tried an other I modified the pulley with a Dremel. There are a little collar around the ball's hole. I cut this collars and the center collar with dremel. I think the first way is much more easier.

M3dreamin2008

iTrader: (1)

Hey i know this was probably mentioned before, but i was wondering what's the max rear toe in for the TA05 and what sus. blocks would i need to get that?
thanks

edlan

The rear uprights have a built in 2 degree toe in. The stock rear suspension holder is an 1A which gives 0 additional degrees of rear toe in. The rear 1B will give 0.5 degree toe in. The 1C will give added 1 degree toe in. So you can get 2.5 degrees total rear toe in with the 1B rear suspension holder or 3 degrees with the 1C rear suspension holder. I haven't seen anyone run with more than 3 degrees rear toe in. Most of the time I see people run with 2 or 3 degrees rear toe in. They also have 1D and 1E blocks which can get you to 3.5 and 4 degrees.