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Old 01-02-2008, 01:37 PM   #8761
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Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
Do you want the simple or full way?

Simple is to get the N parts, rocker nuts, 5x8 bearings or bushings, 3x9.5mm step screws, 28mm turnbuckes and 5mm adjusters.

Full is to replace the suspension with the LW reversable set.
Which one's better?
I have TA05R is it LW reversable arm aready?

Thank you for the help
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Old 01-02-2008, 01:50 PM   #8762
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Which one's better?
I have TA05R is it LW reversable arm aready?

Thank you for the help
Then you can do the simple way. Go to the Tamiya site and download the IFS manual so you can get all the part numbers.
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Old 01-02-2008, 01:56 PM   #8763
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Have you seen the 2008 TCS rules? GT-2 and GT-3 classes have to be 1550 grams minimum weight. You are 70 grams light!

GT-1 is the unlimited class and any Tamiya chassis is OK including the 415, 416, MS, etc.
I saw it, but we are in the middle of the season here in Hugary, and there isn't any weight limit in the 23T class (just Tamiya cars, carbon chassis not allowed). So the most popular car in the class is TA-05. In the next summer I gonna buy some weight
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:05 PM   #8764
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Then you can do the simple way. Go to the Tamiya site and download the IFS manual so you can get all the part numbers.
Can you feel the diffrence just do simple way?\
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Old 01-05-2008, 02:20 PM   #8765
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Here's Wednesday nights results for 13.5 and GT3

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Old 01-06-2008, 02:49 AM   #8766
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you will still feel the difference in handling if you do the simple IFS upgrade, more weight is moved off the front wheels and front suspension arms so the difference is easy to pick up
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:00 AM   #8767
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Hi all,

had my maiden ride with the TA05 (Ferrari Fxx) friday night indoor in a very short (20sec) and slippery track we use for drifting with stock motors (before i had a TL01 with long suspension arms with which i was very confident and competitive).

I was using stock setup, stock rubber tires, trf shocks with 40wt oil, 2holes piston in front, 3holes piston in rear, yellow spring all around. The car felt very sluggish. It was so planted that the only way i could make the rear end swing was to turn all the way to the left (or right) and got full throttle.

My TL01, with soft foam tires, felt more nimble and agile...

Friday i had some problems with my radio gear so i could not test the TA05 with the same tires i was using on the TL01.

Could the tension of the belts affect the car handling and performance? I found out that my belts were skipping. Under stress i could hear a clicking noise. In the beginning i though it was due to the dogbones during hard turns, so i reduced the epa of the steering servo til 70%, but the noise continued and i could not work out tight turns anymore... How can i find the right belt tension?

Any suggestion would be very appreciated.

By the way, i don't know if this has been asked before, but is there a way to squeeze a MambaMax in a TA05 without chassis modification?

Thanks.
Mattia.
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Old 01-06-2008, 10:03 AM   #8768
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I had a problem with my TA 05 R not having any grip at the back
I shortened the rear camber link and changed it from being parallel to being more angled to the arm. Car sticks now at the back but have no steering as the car pushes. DR 100%!!
Set up is as follows

3mm droop all round,
white/yelllow springs front, white/red at the back
3 hole pistons with 40 oil front and 30 back
Yellow swaybar front / red back
2mm camber all round
Tamiya BZ Motor
Tamiya B3 tyres, medium insert

How can I get more steering without loosing back grip?
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Old 01-06-2008, 01:06 PM   #8769
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Default Re: Help

Have you tried no sway bar on the front? That could make the front a little softer and give you more steering, standing up the shocks as well might help, softening front springs, all can help with steering.

My trouble when I go to rubber tires is I have tonnes of steering, but no rear grip. So I'll have to try what you did with the camber link.


I have one question, I've been racing my 05 for over a year, indoor foams, and outdoor rubber. This weekend it started making a horrible noise like I was killing my spur gear or something. I took it off the track checked my gear mesh, belt tension, and all was good. In the A main the sound returned, I just kept driving and the sound would come and go, someone suggested I could have a bearing gone. What bearings are usually the first to go?
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Old 01-06-2008, 03:13 PM   #8770
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I was out at a local parking lot today bashing my 05R with a friend. We had some cones set up and all, it was some good fun. However I got going too fast and a concrete curb jumped into my way! Anyways I broke the right rear upright and broke the suspension arm too. Surprisingly it ran fine until I took it in and saw that it was broken.
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Old 01-06-2008, 04:19 PM   #8771
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Default Tamiya TA05-IFS New Version Graphite Conversion Kit

Maybe a stupid question but, can you convert the TA05R over to the Tamiya TA05-IFS using the New Version Graphite Conversion Kit.

Thanks
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Old 01-06-2008, 06:12 PM   #8772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aittam View Post
By the way, i don't know if this has been asked before, but is there a way to squeeze a MambaMax in a TA05 without chassis modification?

Thanks.
Mattia.
What I did previously for my TA05 with MM ESC for Ni-mh batteries was to cut a small piece of bumper foam to lift up the MM ESC to clear the footprint issue.

When I swapped over to lipo, to acheive a good weight balance, the MM ESC and the receiver have been moved over the other side and mounted on the CF battery strap. Quite Nice, free up some space to cool the motor.

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Old 01-07-2008, 05:01 AM   #8773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cannonball Dan View Post
I had a problem with my TA 05 R not having any grip at the back
I shortened the rear camber link and changed it from being parallel to being more angled to the arm. Car sticks now at the back but have no steering as the car pushes. DR 100%!!
Set up is as follows

3mm droop all round,
white/yelllow springs front, white/red at the back
3 hole pistons with 40 oil front and 30 back
Yellow swaybar front / red back
2mm camber all round
Tamiya BZ Motor
Tamiya B3 tyres, medium insert

How can I get more steering without loosing back grip?
Changing the rear camber arm the way you describe raises the rear roll center. It obviously increases the rear grip.

To increase front grip/reduce rear grip you need to do the following
- soften front sway bar/stiffen rear sway bar
- soften front springs/stiffen rear springs
- Move front shock mount points inboard (upper or lower point to soften front end)/move rear shock mount points outboard (upper or lower point to stiffen rear end)

If you stand a shock up more, it will stiffen it. If you move the shock further outboard it will also stiffen it.

The distinction between spring rate and wheel rate is important. Spring rate is obvious and wheel rate is the pounds per inch you see at the tire and it is always less than the spring rate. Wheel rate is affected by the spring rate and the upper and lower shock mounting points.

Anything that makes the front or rear of a car stiffer (stiffer roll bar, stiffer springs, move the shock outboard, stand the shock up more) will give that end less grip and the other end more grip.

This happens because as, for example, the front of the car is stiffened, more weight transfer occurs at that end (and less occurs at the other end). This means that the outside tire on the front is taking more load and the inside tire takes less load. As the outside tire takes more load, it deforms more. The more a tire deforms, the more grip it has, but it is not linear. The more it deforms the less efficiently it grips, so overall grip at the front decreases. The opposite happens at the rear. So we have less front grip, more rear grip and the car understeers or pushes.

So to get more grip at one end of a car, soften that end, or stiffen the other end.

This also applies to transition handling. For example if you have very heavy shock oil in the front, the car will understeer on turn in.
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Old 01-07-2008, 05:03 AM   #8774
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Have you tried no sway bar on the front? That could make the front a little softer and give you more steering, standing up the shocks as well might help, ....
Standing up the shocks will make the front stiffer not softer.
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Old 01-07-2008, 09:31 AM   #8775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cannonball Dan View Post
I had a problem with my TA 05 R not having any grip at the back
I shortened the rear camber link and changed it from being parallel to being more angled to the arm. Car sticks now at the back but have no steering as the car pushes. DR 100%!!
Set up is as follows

3mm droop all round,
white/yelllow springs front, white/red at the back
3 hole pistons with 40 oil front and 30 back
Yellow swaybar front / red back
2mm camber all round
Tamiya BZ Motor
Tamiya B3 tyres, medium insert

How can I get more steering without loosing back grip?
Start with getting more rear toe 1st....I ran mine with -3 but will back down to -2.5 (too much grib on rear)...I ran on carpet, but get more toe on rear 1st and give that a try. (oh..I use XA front and 1D rear to get -3 degree with a 0-degree upright)
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